I want a Custom Exhaust for my Rocket

[CanberraR3]

Do you hav a pic of the collector and where it ties to the pipes? I am bringing all kinds of pics to the guy I am seeing later in the week just to show different options

Might be able to find one but the key point is that it run to the same point as the stock header connects to the cat box or crossover pipe and needs to include the O2 sensor plug. In other words, it needs to be able to be connected to stock pipes.

 

[ROCKETHEAD]

That's the plan it will be larger in diameter but will include reducer to tie to stock pipe/cross over/cat box...

 

[R3Tex]

That's the plan it will be larger in diameter but will include reducer to tie to stock pipe/cross over/cat box...

Keep us abreast of your progress and I will start down a parallel path. Surely one of us can arrive at a set of headers that are better than stock.

 

[Speedy]

Good luck gentlemen. I hope you can work something out. However, there is a reason that no one makes a set for $800.00. Two things make or break a header design: the transition from port shape to pipe ("flanges") and the collector. Go cheap or sloppy on either and you are wasting your money on the whole system. Good pipe benders want 50 sets minimum, charge for tooling (expect $10,000 or more) and will charge $375 each and more for stainless steel. Add hardware, gaskets, heat shields, which can be more expensive than the pipes themselves, and chrome or ceramic coating at $200 each, and you haven't supplied a muffler or brackets for it yet.

Then added to that is that most purchasers want an iron clad warranty, advice and or a tune for their preferred muffler(s) and special brackets to hang them from, chrome finished stainless steel (no make mine silver, no black ceramic and oh, the inside too), heat shields that are bigger, no smaller, what do you mean they don't cover the flanges and on and on.

I would suggest that if you do this you make the header unfinished with no brackets, no heat shields, no muffler and no tune. Then let the user spend the last $1,000.00 finishing the project to suite. And give up on the idea of a tune that works for all installations. Can't be done well.

Been there, done that.

 

[R3Tex]

I agree Speedy. As my interest here lies in the totally selfish "I want one for my bike" arena instead of producing a product for sale I have no intention in producing a "product line". If I can be successful and if it can be reproduced I have no problem assisting other members to do the same at cost similar to the way Mitzzy did with the quick release back rests. All polishing, coating, tuning or any other pimping of the header would be up to each owner I think. However, once I get a reliable header flange I would have no problem producing a batch of those for whomever wanted one as they would all be the same and of the same material. I am in discussion with a local machine shop now to produce the first one from 316 stainless based on the stock header pipe spacing.

 

[R3Tex]

As I will use the "cut and weld" method to fab the pipes I will probably use someone like these guys to get the mandrel bends from

http://www.stainlessworks.net/

 

[Speedy]

Do a web search for collectors before proceeding further. A Burn's stainless steel 3-1 collector will run you about $300.00 each. Expensive but very good design and impecable craftsmenship. The cut and fit method is very time consuming to do well. TIG welding with purge needed as well as tedious fitment. Either a very good jig is needed or the fabricator will need a R3 to use to fab each set. I would also recommend a slip joint at the collector: the system needs to flex with vibration, chassis flex, and of course heat expansion. Make them too rigid and they will crack. Bosses can be welded to the tubes to attach heat shields but they can't be welded all around or stress cracking will occur there as well. Expect cost over-runs unless the shop has constructed headers for others before.

 

[R3Tex]

Plan was for initial fitment (tack weld) to be done by me using SS wire on a MIG setup. Depending on which vendors I can find I would then remove each pipe from the header flange and deliver to a shop to have a one piece mandrel bend done on each leg so the only weld would be at the flange and at the collector. Assuming this works I should end up with a repeatable design in the event someone else wants a set. If I can't get it done that way I will start the same way and then have a friend of mine that welds for a living finish up the TIG welding where I have tacked and then wrap the headers and install. I like the idea of a slip on connector which would take up less space and provide the benefits you mentioned. I also know a guy that can stress relieve the entire setup once final welding is completed if we think that is necessary.

 

[ROCKETHEAD]

check out these guys for custom bends, they use a neat setup to get the radius's... they are between 800-1000

http://www.stainlessheaders.com/customheaders

 

[Speedy]

Looks like a reputable shop doing nice work. Do they have flanges for the R3? If not you are back to square one. They might be an option if they have flanges provided for them.

As to having a shop duplicate what is tacked together: may work but you will need to know what equipment they will use as you will need to have long enough straight sections between each bend to accommodate their equipment. If you put bends back to back, they will need to build/have built special form dies to do so. This limits the routing of your tubes which then dictates design.

Tacking and welding each set is most likely what you will have to do as the R3 requires some close bends near the head unless you can spread your knees several feet apart. Don't tack with MIG as your TIG welder will be pissed off at the problems this causes. Good TIG joints have to be less than .020" apart (gaps) and should be less than .010" so fitment is critical.

Wrapping headers is one way of guranteeing they won't last long. Even 316 SS will heat fatigue quickly as the primary tubes will run near EGT (exhaust gas temperature.) 321ss is better and titanium even better. Good heat shields to control radiant heat but with adequate gap for air flow and cooling is better IMHO.