imcool
Turbocharged
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2022
- Messages
- 598
- Ride
- Rocket 3R 2022
https://www.obdstar.com/Products_286.html
get this and make your own keys and screw stealerships
I hate key fobs
- Thread starter lotus
- Start date
get this and make your own keys and screw stealerships
Kiwicol
Career Beer Taster
Lotus, you say it doesn't seem to work, seem being the operative word here. Not trying to teach ya to suck eggs (or start your bike) but thought a written list of starting the bike with the FOB in passive mode (ie turned off or a flat battery) may assist, as the handle bar switch can make it appear to not work, depending on where it's at.
1, make sure your handle bar switch is in the off position, you can't tell by looking at it, I turn my bike off by pushing the switch off & she stops.
2, power on the switch, it's just another push (same direction too, not towards the start function)
3, when you power on the switch, you'll see the red flashing light change to solid on, for about 5 seconds. During this 5 second period you place the flat fob under the guard onto the antenna. You don't have to touch anything else, the screen will wake up within a second or 2 of recognising the fob.
I just stand on the left of the bike, left hand does the switch and right hand is ready with the fob to slip under the guard. It works good - depending on where that handlebar switch is positioned.
4, now the screen is on, start as normal
Have a crack at this method & see how it goes, reckon you'll be right.
1, make sure your handle bar switch is in the off position, you can't tell by looking at it, I turn my bike off by pushing the switch off & she stops.
2, power on the switch, it's just another push (same direction too, not towards the start function)
3, when you power on the switch, you'll see the red flashing light change to solid on, for about 5 seconds. During this 5 second period you place the flat fob under the guard onto the antenna. You don't have to touch anything else, the screen will wake up within a second or 2 of recognising the fob.
I just stand on the left of the bike, left hand does the switch and right hand is ready with the fob to slip under the guard. It works good - depending on where that handlebar switch is positioned.
4, now the screen is on, start as normal
Have a crack at this method & see how it goes, reckon you'll be right.
Kiwicol
Career Beer Taster
Yep, got me one of them scan tools, need it as no dealers near me.
imcool
Turbocharged
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2022
- Messages
- 598
- Ride
- Rocket 3R 2022
yes, you told us about it first, thanks again
Idaho Red Rocket 3
Living Legend
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2008
- Messages
- 5,791
- Location
- Nampa, Idaho USA
- Ride
- 2006 RIII Standard Bagger w/Fairing
I hate key fob only to operate vehicle. Can I please just have a normal key ?
lotus
.060 Over
You've been seeing me vent about Triumph's implementation of their immobilization system on my 2022 GT.
I bought the bike used a year ago. During that time, it's been frustrating living with this immobilization system.
I've had FOBs on my cars for years and ASSUMED this one worked the same. All that familiarity with car FOBs
can be thrown out the window quickly. The majority of my frustration with this system has been due to this assumption.
I won't rehash the long list of frustrations due to not understanding the quirks.
Recently, I took a trip out of state and worried about being stuck in a remote location IF the FOB battery died or got lost. Found
out the Passive Keys are the backup to get you home. Previous owner lost the passive keys so I had to order from my local dealer
for $154. They are tied to my VIN and laser cut coming from England.
When I picked up the keys, I was told there's nothing further to do. Took them out to the bike in the parking lot and tried all the locks etc. Tried to start the bike with only the passive key and it started. Good, everything seems to work. I'm done.
Wait.... not so fast...... about a month later I heard about the antenna under the fly screen and tried it using one of the passive keys.
Didn't work. What?
Called the dealer parts department and asked if I needed to pair the passive keys. They said, shouldn't be necessary. After seeing people
on this forum saying "Yes, you need to have the passive keys paired", I looked at the Tech Manual and found a section that explained how
the immobilization system worked. More questions. I thought back to when I successfully tested in the parking lot and realized I could have forgotten about the active FOB in my left pocket?
So now, I realized I needed to have those passive keys paired to the bike's immobilization ECU.
Took the bike into the dealer service dept and had them "pair" the passive keys. It was $90 and took them ~45 minutes to complete.
I'm now going to share a summary of what I've learned from the manual, service techs, and personal experience.
1) There a two antennas
* One under the right side of the fly screen box as you're sitting on the bike. This antenna does NOT recognize passive keys. It ONLY works
with the Smartkey (aka Active Key, FOB). It detects a signal up to 3 feet away. That's what the tech manual says, but that's not true on
my bike.
* Second antenna is located under left side body cover (we all know this). You can locate this antenna by sliding your hand under the cover
along the mud guard and feeling for two bumps (pips). The antenna is located between those bumps. This antenna will recognize both
active and passive keys. Passive keys need to be within 2 ins of antenna. Three feet for active key in limited directions (up and left).
2) The FOB (SmartKey, Active Key) has two functions......
* One is with the FOB turned on via logo button (lights green) that allows the bike to start using front or rear antennas (3 feet?).
* Second function is acting as "passive key". If the battery is dead, hold the FOB between the bumps and allow a couple seconds for the
system to detect while pressing the ON toggle position. You'll see the red light on steady during the time it tries to connect. If the motor
is not running, the passive only provides ~30 secs of power before turning off. However, if the motor is running, it will allow you to ride
until you turn off the motor.
3) As to where you should place the FOB on your body, I've struggled with this. I didn't realize it, but I put a lot of stuff in my pants pockets
(car FOB, cell phone, coins, knife). I found it necessary to remove EVERYTHING from the left pocket or it interferes with bike FOB. I've even
had it not connect not because the FOB is on the right side of the pocket. I have to reach in and move it to left side of pocket. This is very annoying. What I have found to work best for me is to use a neck lanyard to hang the FOB inside my shirt or jacket. I don't even know
it's there and has worked without fail. I think it's primarily connecting to the front antenna? This allows me to fill my pockets as I normally do
4) In one of my previous posts regarding placement of the backup passive key that is secure and accessible, somebody pointed out the key
in that position could interfere with the Active Key. It turns out, as stated above, passive keys aren't recognized by the front antenna.
Not a problem.
By the way, the techs think the system is difficult and causes a lot of frustration with customers. They also don't understand why a mechanical key isn't used. There are only 3 models (Tiger 1200, Speed Triple RS, and Rocket 3) that use the immobilization system in the Triumph line.
Let me know if you have any differing experiences or "tricks" in living with this system.....
I bought the bike used a year ago. During that time, it's been frustrating living with this immobilization system.
I've had FOBs on my cars for years and ASSUMED this one worked the same. All that familiarity with car FOBs
can be thrown out the window quickly. The majority of my frustration with this system has been due to this assumption.
I won't rehash the long list of frustrations due to not understanding the quirks.
Recently, I took a trip out of state and worried about being stuck in a remote location IF the FOB battery died or got lost. Found
out the Passive Keys are the backup to get you home. Previous owner lost the passive keys so I had to order from my local dealer
for $154. They are tied to my VIN and laser cut coming from England.
When I picked up the keys, I was told there's nothing further to do. Took them out to the bike in the parking lot and tried all the locks etc. Tried to start the bike with only the passive key and it started. Good, everything seems to work. I'm done.
Wait.... not so fast...... about a month later I heard about the antenna under the fly screen and tried it using one of the passive keys.
Didn't work. What?
Called the dealer parts department and asked if I needed to pair the passive keys. They said, shouldn't be necessary. After seeing people
on this forum saying "Yes, you need to have the passive keys paired", I looked at the Tech Manual and found a section that explained how
the immobilization system worked. More questions. I thought back to when I successfully tested in the parking lot and realized I could have forgotten about the active FOB in my left pocket?
So now, I realized I needed to have those passive keys paired to the bike's immobilization ECU.
Took the bike into the dealer service dept and had them "pair" the passive keys. It was $90 and took them ~45 minutes to complete.
I'm now going to share a summary of what I've learned from the manual, service techs, and personal experience.
1) There a two antennas
* One under the right side of the fly screen box as you're sitting on the bike. This antenna does NOT recognize passive keys. It ONLY works
with the Smartkey (aka Active Key, FOB). It detects a signal up to 3 feet away. That's what the tech manual says, but that's not true on
my bike.
* Second antenna is located under left side body cover (we all know this). You can locate this antenna by sliding your hand under the cover
along the mud guard and feeling for two bumps (pips). The antenna is located between those bumps. This antenna will recognize both
active and passive keys. Passive keys need to be within 2 ins of antenna. Three feet for active key in limited directions (up and left).
2) The FOB (SmartKey, Active Key) has two functions......
* One is with the FOB turned on via logo button (lights green) that allows the bike to start using front or rear antennas (3 feet?).
* Second function is acting as "passive key". If the battery is dead, hold the FOB between the bumps and allow a couple seconds for the
system to detect while pressing the ON toggle position. You'll see the red light on steady during the time it tries to connect. If the motor
is not running, the passive only provides ~30 secs of power before turning off. However, if the motor is running, it will allow you to ride
until you turn off the motor.
3) As to where you should place the FOB on your body, I've struggled with this. I didn't realize it, but I put a lot of stuff in my pants pockets
(car FOB, cell phone, coins, knife). I found it necessary to remove EVERYTHING from the left pocket or it interferes with bike FOB. I've even
had it not connect not because the FOB is on the right side of the pocket. I have to reach in and move it to left side of pocket. This is very annoying. What I have found to work best for me is to use a neck lanyard to hang the FOB inside my shirt or jacket. I don't even know
it's there and has worked without fail. I think it's primarily connecting to the front antenna? This allows me to fill my pockets as I normally do
4) In one of my previous posts regarding placement of the backup passive key that is secure and accessible, somebody pointed out the key
in that position could interfere with the Active Key. It turns out, as stated above, passive keys aren't recognized by the front antenna.
Not a problem.
By the way, the techs think the system is difficult and causes a lot of frustration with customers. They also don't understand why a mechanical key isn't used. There are only 3 models (Tiger 1200, Speed Triple RS, and Rocket 3) that use the immobilization system in the Triumph line.
Let me know if you have any differing experiences or "tricks" in living with this system.....
Last edited:
Kiwicol
Career Beer Taster
Did you see my post 4 above this one? There's a tip there.
Another tip, once the bike is started it does not check for the FOB any more, so it doesn't matter where you put it. The bike only looks for the FOB or Passive key to start, once she's running you can loose the fob & it'll keep running. Try it, start your bike as usual, go put the FOB back in your house then ride round the block, you'll be fine as long as you don't shut the system down, stall is ok because it's not shut down.
Another tip, once the bike is started it does not check for the FOB any more, so it doesn't matter where you put it. The bike only looks for the FOB or Passive key to start, once she's running you can loose the fob & it'll keep running. Try it, start your bike as usual, go put the FOB back in your house then ride round the block, you'll be fine as long as you don't shut the system down, stall is ok because it's not shut down.
Last edited:
Nashvegas
That’s a Rocket, son.
I didn’t like carrying around that big chunky fob and always used my passive keys. So of course, that’s what I took over to the tuner/Dyno. Don’t do this. When you turn the bike on with a spare key, it will only stay on for about 30 seconds and then it will shut itself down. This is not good when you are trying to load a map into the system. We spent about half of a day trying to figure out what was going on and I had to make a four hour round-trip to go get my key fob.You've been seeing me vent about Triumph's implementation of their immobilization system on my 2022 GT.
I bought the bike used a year ago. During that time, it's been frustrating living with this immobilization system.
I've had FOBs on my cars for years and ASSUMED this one worked the same. All that familiarity with car FOBs
can be thrown out the window quickly. The majority of my frustration with this system has been due to this assumption.
I won't rehash the long list of frustrations due to not understanding the quirks.
Recently, I took a trip out of state and worried about being stuck in a remote location IF the FOB battery died or got lost. Found
out the Passive Keys are the backup to get you home. Previous owner lost the passive keys so I had to order from my local dealer
for $154. They are tied to my VIN and laser cut coming from England.
It took a couple weeks, but the dealer called telling me I could pick up the keys. When I picked up the keys, I was told there's nothing
further to do. Took them out to the bike in the parking lot and tried all the locks etc. Tried to start the bike with only the passive key and
it started. Good, everything seems to work. I'm done.
Wait.... not so fast...... about a month later I heard about the antenna under the fly screen and tried it using one of the passive keys.
Didn't work. What?
Called the dealer parts department and asked if I needed to pair the passive keys. They said, shouldn't be necessary. After seeing people
on this forum saying "Yes, you need to have the passive keys paired", I looked at the Tech Manual and found a section that explained how
the immobilization system worked. More questions
I thought back to when I successfully tested in the parking lot and realized I could have forgotten about the active FOB in my left pocket.
So now, I realized I needed to have those passive keys paired to the bike's immobilization ECU.
Took the bike into the dealer service dept and had them "pair" the passive keys. It was $90 and took them ~45 minutes to complete.
I'm now going to share a summary of what I've learned from the manual, service techs, and personal experience.
1) There a two antennas
* One under the right side of the fly screen box as you're sitting on the bike. This antenna does NOT recognize passive keys. It ONLY works
with the Smartkey (aka Active Key, FOB). It detects a signal up to 3 feet away. That's what the tech manual says, but that's not true on
my bike.
* Second antenna is located under left side body cover (we all know this). You can locate this antenna by sliding your hand under the cover
along the mud guard and feeling for two bumps (pips). The antenna is located between those bumps. This antenna will recognize both
active and passive keys. Passive keys need to be within 2 ins of antenna. Three feet for active key in limited directions (up and left).
2) The FOB (SmartKey, Active Key) has two functions......
* One is with the FOB turned on via logo button (lights green) that allows the bike to start using front or rear antennas (3 feet?).
* Second function is acting as "passive key". If the battery is dead, hold the FOB between the bumps and allow a couple seconds for the
system to detect while pressing the ON toggle position. You'll see the red light on steady during the time it tries to connect.
3) As to where you should place the FOB on your body, I've struggled with this. I didn't realize it, but I put a lot of stuff in my pants pockets
(car FOB, cell phone, coins, knife). I found it necessary to remove EVERYTHING from the left pocket or it interferes with bike FOB. I've even
had it not connect not because the FOB is on the right side of the pocket. I have to reach in and move it to left side of pocket. This is very annoying.
What I have found to work best for me is to use a neck lanyard to hang the FOB inside my shirt or jacket. I don't even know it's there and has
worked without fail. I think it's primarily connecting to the front antenna? This allows me to fill my pockets as I normally do
4) In one of my previous posts regarding placement of the backup passive key that is secure and accessible, somebody pointed out the key
in that position could interfere with the Active Key. It turns out, as stated above, passive keys aren't recognized by the front antenna. Not a problem.
By the way, the techs think the system is difficult and causes a lot of frustration with customers. They also don't understand why a mechanical key
isn't used. There are only 3 models (Tiger 1200, Speed Triple RS, and Rocket 3) that use the immobilization system in the Triumph line.
Let me know if you have any differing experiences or "tricks" in living with this system....
Einar
Supercharged
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2024
- Messages
- 275
- Location
- Washington D.C.
- Ride
- '24 Rocket 3 GT & '23 Tiger 1200 GT Pro
I'm sympathetic, but virtually all of your issues would have been avoided by reading the owner's manual, ensuring you were purchasing everything the bike needed before paying for it, and adhering to the advice provided previously on this forum. Even here you've repeated statements that illustrate that you've continued to ignore the helpful and accurate information provided by others on this very forum. My intention isn't to be mean--but perhaps consider that those trying to help you might actually have the answers to your concerns. We're here to help each other.You've been seeing me vent about Triumph's implementation of their immobilization system on my 2022 GT.
I bought the bike used a year ago. During that time, it's been frustrating living with this immobilization system.
I've had FOBs on my cars for years and ASSUMED this one worked the same. All that familiarity with car FOBs
can be thrown out the window quickly. The majority of my frustration with this system has been due to this assumption.
I won't rehash the long list of frustrations due to not understanding the quirks.
Recently, I took a trip out of state and worried about being stuck in a remote location IF the FOB battery died or got lost. Found
out the Passive Keys are the backup to get you home. Previous owner lost the passive keys so I had to order from my local dealer
for $154. They are tied to my VIN and laser cut coming from England.
It took a couple weeks, but the dealer called telling me I could pick up the keys. When I picked up the keys, I was told there's nothing
further to do. Took them out to the bike in the parking lot and tried all the locks etc. Tried to start the bike with only the passive key and
it started. Good, everything seems to work. I'm done.
Wait.... not so fast...... about a month later I heard about the antenna under the fly screen and tried it using one of the passive keys.
Didn't work. What?
Called the dealer parts department and asked if I needed to pair the passive keys. They said, shouldn't be necessary. After seeing people
on this forum saying "Yes, you need to have the passive keys paired", I looked at the Tech Manual and found a section that explained how
the immobilization system worked. More questions
I thought back to when I successfully tested in the parking lot and realized I could have forgotten about the active FOB in my left pocket.
So now, I realized I needed to have those passive keys paired to the bike's immobilization ECU.
Took the bike into the dealer service dept and had them "pair" the passive keys. It was $90 and took them ~45 minutes to complete.
I'm now going to share a summary of what I've learned from the manual, service techs, and personal experience.
1) There a two antennas
* One under the right side of the fly screen box as you're sitting on the bike. This antenna does NOT recognize passive keys. It ONLY works
with the Smartkey (aka Active Key, FOB). It detects a signal up to 3 feet away. That's what the tech manual says, but that's not true on
my bike.
* Second antenna is located under left side body cover (we all know this). You can locate this antenna by sliding your hand under the cover
along the mud guard and feeling for two bumps (pips). The antenna is located between those bumps. This antenna will recognize both
active and passive keys. Passive keys need to be within 2 ins of antenna. Three feet for active key in limited directions (up and left).
2) The FOB (SmartKey, Active Key) has two functions......
* One is with the FOB turned on via logo button (lights green) that allows the bike to start using front or rear antennas (3 feet?).
* Second function is acting as "passive key". If the battery is dead, hold the FOB between the bumps and allow a couple seconds for the
system to detect while pressing the ON toggle position. You'll see the red light on steady during the time it tries to connect.
3) As to where you should place the FOB on your body, I've struggled with this. I didn't realize it, but I put a lot of stuff in my pants pockets
(car FOB, cell phone, coins, knife). I found it necessary to remove EVERYTHING from the left pocket or it interferes with bike FOB. I've even
had it not connect not because the FOB is on the right side of the pocket. I have to reach in and move it to left side of pocket. This is very annoying.
What I have found to work best for me is to use a neck lanyard to hang the FOB inside my shirt or jacket. I don't even know it's there and has
worked without fail. I think it's primarily connecting to the front antenna? This allows me to fill my pockets as I normally do
4) In one of my previous posts regarding placement of the backup passive key that is secure and accessible, somebody pointed out the key
in that position could interfere with the Active Key. It turns out, as stated above, passive keys aren't recognized by the front antenna. Not a problem.
By the way, the techs think the system is difficult and causes a lot of frustration with customers. They also don't understand why a mechanical key
isn't used. There are only 3 models (Tiger 1200, Speed Triple RS, and Rocket 3) that use the immobilization system in the Triumph line.
Let me know if you have any differing experiences or "tricks" in living with this system.....
lotus
.060 Over
Einar.....
Read the manual? Really?
As clearly stated in my post, "This is a summary summary of what I've learned from the manuals, service techs, and personal experience."
My intent was to consolidate all the information and personal experience (including forum advice) into one post so other users wouldn't
have to fill all the knowledge gaps. I have found the system is so complex and nuanced, each rider has their own ritual and process to get these things started. This is no matter how many times you read the manual.
This was proven to me when they rolled out my bike after pairing the keys. It was a 2 hour ride and wanted to verify it was working as
expected(?). I went through the steps positioning key, toggling switches, etc, etc and it wouldn't light up. Tech tried and nothing. I ended up having 3 service techs standing around the bike comparing what procedure they used, and they were all different in some respect, to how they sequenced pushing the handlebar toggle switch.
I'm disappointed you're bothered and bored by old information being revisited. It might be for you, but there are many of us on this forum that might find SOMETHING in the post that was helpful. That's the point of knowledge sharing.
I would suggest if you find the a post redundant and boring, just ignore and move on. Don't discourage less experienced owners from asking questions by telling them to read the manual.
Read the manual? Really?
As clearly stated in my post, "This is a summary summary of what I've learned from the manuals, service techs, and personal experience."
My intent was to consolidate all the information and personal experience (including forum advice) into one post so other users wouldn't
have to fill all the knowledge gaps. I have found the system is so complex and nuanced, each rider has their own ritual and process to get these things started. This is no matter how many times you read the manual.
This was proven to me when they rolled out my bike after pairing the keys. It was a 2 hour ride and wanted to verify it was working as
expected(?). I went through the steps positioning key, toggling switches, etc, etc and it wouldn't light up. Tech tried and nothing. I ended up having 3 service techs standing around the bike comparing what procedure they used, and they were all different in some respect, to how they sequenced pushing the handlebar toggle switch.
I'm disappointed you're bothered and bored by old information being revisited. It might be for you, but there are many of us on this forum that might find SOMETHING in the post that was helpful. That's the point of knowledge sharing.
I would suggest if you find the a post redundant and boring, just ignore and move on. Don't discourage less experienced owners from asking questions by telling them to read the manual.
Last edited:
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