How much lash in the drive train is normal?

Looks like it was the rear bearing that failed. It was the front bearing that was sometimes installed backwards. Can't tell from the picture if your is on correctly. They use a sealed bearing on the rear now. The early open bearings were supposed to get splash oil from the gearbox but didn't usually get enough.

@Steel probably wouldn't have a problem running the old open bearing in the rear. ;)
 
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Since its a 06 and obviously old style bearings. If they are changing both helical gears they most likely will split the engine open to pull the transmission output shaft. You should seriously, seriously, seriously (get the point) have them change the second gear, dog ring, and the newer style splined bushings that have the splined washer on it also. And they should check to insure the cir clips are orientated correctly. some of them were not and can cause catastrophic failure. It beats taking the engine back out to do it later!!!!!!
 
OK I am not sure if your using a Triumph shop or someone else but to help clarify the front torsional damper bearing and why it failed here is a few pictures. Below is the front bearing but installed arse backwards it only has one seal and should not be installed like the picture below . The seal is towards the front so oil cannot be fed to it. If the rear one is ok I would change it as it won't be for long its hopes God will deliver the oil to it . Like Fred said the new rear bearing is double sealed and packed with grease.

TorsionalDamperShaftbearinginstalledwrongwayaround.jpg



That being said Below is the bearing installed correctly allow oil to be fed to it.

front torsional damper bearing installed correctly.jpg



If it were my bike besides installing the new updated second gear and dog ring, and Splined bushings I would also install the updated detent wheel.
 
Thanks warp, I told them to change both bearings to be sure. Does the engine have to be split to change that helical gear thats damaged?

In that case I will get them to change the other parts you recommended as well. I dont suppose you have part numbers for all the bits needed?

Thanks for the advice

And is it worthwhile renewing all the circlips on the gear shafts just to be sure or will they be okay to be reused? It is a triumph dealership doing the work.

The detent wheel seems to be T1190004, second gear and dogring come as a kit, part number is T1180188, but I am not sure what the part number is for the splined bushings and how many of them are required. And is the splined washer part of the splined bushing or is it another separate part?
 
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Thanks warp, I told them to change both bearings to be sure. Does the engine have to be split to change that helical gear thats damaged?

In that case I will get them to change the other parts you recommended as well. I dont suppose you have part numbers for all the bits needed?

Thanks for the advice

And is it worthwhile renewing all the circlips on the gear shafts just to be sure or will they be okay to be reused. It is a triumph dealership doing the work.
I can put a list together for you or send you the PDF file on the update kit it has all the part numbers As for changing the helical gear without pulling the motor let me give it some thought I believe you can since the engine is out of the bike but let me look at how we are going stop the shaft from rotating as the torque on the nut is 145 NM.

PM me your e-mail address.

Oh and about the cir clips it depend on whether they stretch them to far pulling them but in if you end up splitting it open I would. They cannot be that expensive its just a snap rings I'm not sure where they came up with the name cir clips might be back to them not chilling their beers properly :D
 
Good news I get the bike back on friday. They had to replace the TDSU bearings, cush drive the TDSU gear and the one it meshes with and I got them to replace the detent mechanism and second gear and associated parts as recommended by warp 9.9

Cant wait to be on the road again, bit of a hefty bill at 2k but at least now I know it is sorted.
 
Hey all. I find that slow speed maneuvering with the R3T isn't as smooth as one might like. The engine revs etc are all under control, it's not a TPS fault, but I do have a fair amount of drive train lash. Going from drive to engine braking is a noticeable "jump" (well, not jump, but you can feel it as a very discrete step) and going back on the power at slow speeds again is not smooth even with very good throttle control; I can get it smooth-ish but the lash is always there. Is this the way it was out of the gates? I really don't recall off hand.

Just wondering how much play there is for the average Rocket, fuzzy as the question may be.

I am wondering the same thing. I have done 400 miles on my "new to me" R3T (6000 miles) and this is the only thing that really worries me. It is a rather large obvious slack. Can't determine if it is the shaft or transmission.
 
I think we should just be happy they work as well as they do, in a capitalism nothing can ever be the best possible - there's always corners cut. The question becomes are they cut too much or not? But a number of people here are rocking 240 horses or whatnot out of their bikes so clearly the transmission is pretty well engineered overall.
True, but IMHO the tranny is way way under geared (low). Considering the torque this monster makes, the 5th ratio should be something like 0.64.
 
to beat an already dead horse a bit...my 2013 does not seem to have much lash at all...i almost want to apologize. Ha, i mean the hook up from throttle is solid, i feel a pull from the physics of the it all, but not a delay per se. Clunking in the lower gears i get plenty of, but as one of the other posters said not so much if engine speed is matched up.....why the hell this bike does not have a tach on it i can only wonder....it must have got cut out along with the electronic cruise control it should have. ; )
I can tell you . . . they do not want you to know how improperly geared this motor is.
 
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