hesitation, kicking engine

fastfun

Supercharged
Joined
Jun 12, 2017
Messages
259
Location
Netherlands
Ride
triumph roadster supercharged, 2010
Hi. I get already for some weeks(.) the next issue : just cruising at nearly idle speed (about 5% throttle) bike is running fine. However, just pulling the throttle from 5 at 10% and the rpm's are inclining at about 1800rpm , the bike suddenly is like 'switching off' and rpm's are declining (AFR drops at 9.0 ) till the bike suddenly is kicking forward at lower rpmrange, meanwhile still holding at 10% throttle.
Rpm's are inclining again and the issue starts again.

Then, in order avoiding this critical throttle position at 10% , from the start I pull firmly the throttle at 15%. A little hickup in transit ,but the rpm's are inclining well. Till about 2000rpm's and the issue comes in again.
However, riding the bike from the start and pulling the throttle firmly through the gears , and under supercharging, no issue shows up.


Yes, I did check the voltage of the steppenmotor, the primary/sec TPS,
vacuumlines,mapsensor(renewed), coil tensionleads, throttle balancing, injectors, steppenmotor set at 100% open.

Thing I just didn't check are the high tension coil/sparkleads. I have to mention I did change the lenght of some leads because of fixing chargerpipe and replacing coil(s).
I wonder if it matters I could be having swapped the 2 high tension coil/sparkleads with each other at the front coil. But if I did so, how can I check which lead should be nr. 1 and nr 2 at the front coil. ( as I mentioned, I fixed 2 longer hightensionleads to this coil.)

Who can deal with this frustrating issue ? Tnx !
 
I experienced a bad hesitation when I used a very light throttle when passing on the highway. I found the primary wires on the coils very lose. Took them off and crimped the connections, refitted to the coils and the problem was fixed.
Might not be the same as what you are experiencing but worth looking at.
 
Tnx motolink. I did that check also but no change.
 
The plugs fire at the same time in each cylinder so it shouldn't really matter which plug goes to each spark plug respective to each cylinder.

There are a few possibilities to cause this behavior. How was it tuned, TuneECU, TuneBOY,PC-V or a combination of two? Which MAP sensor are you using?

What size injectors?

Is the overly rich behavior when you slowly roll open, quickly open, or during steady state throttle?

What does your F-L table transition look like?
 
Tnx for your response Claviger. It is TuneEcu with Pc5, injectors Siemens Deka 80 lb/hr,stock (.) mapsensor, not in gear(s),at slowly roll open Fl table at first shows ok, about 12.issue comes in with riding the bike, under load also.I have an AFR sensor/display on the bike, so at slowly roll open from 5 to 10 %, at this point, about 1800rpm, suddenly the bike is like switching off the ignition and rpm drops down at once with Fl showing about 9.0/9.5. (still holding state throttle at 10%)
Then, when rpm is back down to a lower range, the power kicks in again, like a car is hitting from behind.
This issue repeats itself in the rpmrange 2000/2100 and less 'hick ups' about a 3000rpm.

One remarkble thing more : with also Autotune set to the Pc5, the engine is totally running sh.. at idle rpm.(not in gears)
One can see at the Fl table Autotune is jumping around in a small circle of tablefields.(800/1000rpm)It cann't set itselves to right Fl tablefields, the bike is also not able in riding from its place normally with Autotune.

As you mention the Mapsensor, I realise ,could it be a lack of vacuum for the Map because of the mass of air the charger is already blowing into the plenum ?
 
Update : I just did finish riding the bike without charger running and the bike is running much better in its lower rpm range. Taking that into account TuneEcu/Pc 5 are set at chargerboost FL tablevalues. Could it yet be happening in my life that's the issue ? (= stock mapsensor gets to less vacuum when chargerair-no boost- is already being filling up the plenumvacuum)
 
OK I am going to take a quick stab at this pardon me if I am mixed up a little about what you wrote. First it sounds to me like you trying to use a 1 bar map sensor. Which will not work as the boost pressure goes above one bar which probably will much up the Map sensor. Is the engine light on? are you using a stepper motor or not? Most important what Series (age) supercharger kit do you have TTS changed things throughout the years.
 
Hi Warp, tnx for your response.I hope you can help me out of this misery.
The bike(Roadster 2010) breathes through an 'old' C30-94.
Engine lights are on.
I'm using the steppermotor,sec. throttle set at 100%.
Steppermotor at 0.71/072.
Tps at 0.60 (don't know if Tune-Ecu sets both Tps, prim and sec at the same voltage together/the same time)
Oem/stock mapsensor.(new one)

the kicking\hesitation issue came in after I did convert my old Rlll2004 into a Roadster 2010. Also all 'fast' TTS parts etc.moved from the 2004 bike onto the Roadster.On the 2004 Rlll the steppermotor was off and if I can recall correctly, many years ago(2010 or so) that time, Richard also did connect the steppermotorconnector inside with its connections .I cann't recall which way he did so.
That's why I did fix the steppermotor on the Roadster.

The issue only exists in the vacuum rpmrange, without chargerboost also.
 
OK try this since your using tune ecu and a 1 bar map sensor. This is what I did to mine when there was no tune boy that could read a 2 or 3 bar map sensor.

I stayed with the stepper motor or actually put it back on as I did not agree with Richard at that time. Stepper motor is set up normally with just the ISCV reset. plug the wires into the 1 bar OEM maps sensor but do not hook any vacuum line to it. set you F to L switch over to zero and the ecu will see the map sensor in its normal start up check and will not throw a code. Then while running the ecu look and see its not program to grab any map sensor readings so it will just ignore it. No code will come up . Tune from the F tables and if you need to hook a 2 bar sensor up to feed the 5 volt pickup from the sensor and you can use it for boost fueling if needed. In my opinion its not as necessary because your blower is hooked to the crank and spools up linear which is a lot more predictable then a puffer that spools up at any given time when you rip her. Now I am by no means a expert people Like Nev have forgot more than I will ever understand and might be along with a better idea. If he disagrees with me then well all I can say is I would listen to him before me.
Unless he recommends Lemon Pledge there is better stuff out there unless your lazy

Oh and since you stress your 1 bar sensor above what its made for it might be damaged which will thro a code no matter what IMO.

Remember there is no area your not under boost the charger is always making air if you were to compare it to a NA motor its just not force feeding it much at lower rpms but still is supplying air.
 

Ok, tnx Warp. because my laptopbro has his eveningholiday now(european time...) Tomorrow I will do so at once. I keep you posted.
 
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