Helicoil blues

[DesertRat]

Had a read, wow, just shows ya don't know what ya don't know. Thx, very informative article.

You're very welcome Mr Kiwi,

The R3 project will be my first Race Motorcycle Project. I do have a base of an Automotive Engineering Degree.

I started off Street Racing @ 15 when you either Got a Bigger/Softer Tire or learned how to Feather the Throttle and learned shift points by knowing your Camshaft Profile/Torque Curve/Final Gear Ratio/Tire size to launch as hard/quickly as you could. None of today's cheating using..... an ECU during WOT to electronically adjust Timing/AF Mixture and Electronic Feathering the Throttle all simultaneously..lol

I've designed and worked on many a Chevrolet Race Engines/Transmissions and Chassis, Off-Road Vehicles, UTVs, Consulted on Aviation Power Systems, Aviation and Ground Based Communications Systems- and have still have an active EMT License @ >60 years young.

NEVER STOP LEARNING.

I'm no expert but I'm still always eager to share what I do know and learn new things along the way.

 

[bebsy]

You're very welcome Mr Kiwi,

The R3 project will be my first Race Motorcycle Project. I do have a base of an Automotive Engineering Degree.

I started off Street Racing @ 15 when you either Got a Bigger/Softer Tire or learned how to Feather the Throttle and learned shift points by knowing your Camshaft Profile/Torque Curve/Final Gear Ratio/Tire size to launch as hard/quickly as you could. None of today's cheating using..... an ECU during WOT to electronically adjust Timing/AF Mixture and Electronic Feathering the Throttle all simultaneously..lol

I've designed and worked on many a Chevrolet Race Engines/Transmissions and Chassis, Off-Road Vehicles, UTVs, Consulted on Aviation Power Systems, Aviation and Ground Based Communications Systems- and have still have an active EMT License @ >60 years young.

NEVER STOP LEARNING.

I'm no expert but I'm still always eager to share what I do know and learn new things along the way.

I appreciate the fact you did share... this all down to my poor splainin

You're very welcome Mr Kiwi,

The R3 project will be my first Race Motorcycle Project. I do have a base of an Automotive Engineering Degree.

I started off Street Racing @ 15 when you either Got a Bigger/Softer Tire or learned how to Feather the Throttle and learned shift points by knowing your Camshaft Profile/Torque Curve/Final Gear Ratio/Tire size to launch as hard/quickly as you could. None of today's cheating using..... an ECU during WOT to electronically adjust Timing/AF Mixture and Electronic Feathering the Throttle all simultaneously..lol

I've designed and worked on many a Chevrolet Race Engines/Transmissions and Chassis, Off-Road Vehicles, UTVs, Consulted on Aviation Power Systems, Aviation and Ground Based Communications Systems- and have still have an active EMT License @ >60 years young.

NEVER STOP LEARNING.

I'm no expert but I'm still always eager to share what I do know and learn new things along the way.

I appreciate the fact you did share this is down to my poor splainin appoligies, like that old TV I need a few slaps to get the message when learning something new but as my avatars name suggests I make sure it's done correct sorry for any feathers ruffled

 

[bebsy]

Well here's a well thought out explanation one of which I've never been in the habit of. I only fitted the engine 2 day's ago and secured the engine mounts unfortunately I decided to leave the starter off untill I rerouted the wiring, but hey it's no big deal engine is still on the jack and hoist in place I'll get the stator casing off in a jiff,
May a great day be had by all

 

[TURBO200R4]

The proper way to fix this problem

Well here's a well thought out explanation one of which I've never been in the habit of. I only fitted the engine 2 day's ago and secured the engine mounts unfortunately I decided to leave the starter off untill I rerouted the wiring, but hey it's no big deal engine is still on the jack and hoist in place I'll get the stator casing off in a jiff, I now know I need an M10 helicoil with a 1.0 pitch... May a great day be had by all

This info is wrong
Earlier I typed about 3 paragraphs and managed to lose it all but having the motor out is a plus
You will be using the m8x1.25 helicoil set I will get you the part number tomorrow.

 

[bebsy]

The proper way to fix this problem

This info is wrong
Earlier I typed about 3 paragraphs and managed to lose it all but having the motor out is a plus
You will be using the m8x1.25 helicoil set I will get you the part number tomorrow.

Thanks Turbo for the confirmation you done plenty to help I can get that said kit here cheers

 

[TURBO200R4]

Metric helicoils is harder to install than stander threads
A few pointers
I would would have the one insta
Put two bolts (closest to the one you will be working on) in and that will give you a visual way to keep your drill aligned while drilling
Do not drill all the way thru the case. It should go easy at first then I can tell when the drill bottoms in the hole but you can also visually check
These helicoils are made for tapping all the way threw so considering what is at stake I would tap it to the bottom then grind of 1/16 of the tap so you can get an extra turn when inserting the helicoil.
What you don't want to do is force that coil into the area that is not thread.
When in doubt I have taken a die grinder an cut a one coil off that is sticking out metric helicoils is harder to start requiring more pressure to start.
I would have the one installing the coil read this because it is going to be easy to mess up that motor.
Any questions just sing out
Hth

 

[DesertRat]

Metric helicoils is harder to install than stander threads
A few pointers
Do not drill all the way thru the case. It should go easy at first then I can tell when the drill bottoms in the hole but you can also visually check

Hth

1) I usually measure the depth of the hole then: 2) Transfer that measurement to a drill bit and; 3) Mark the length/depth on drill bit with Black Electrical Tap.

That way I do go passed and through the bottom of the hole.

Btw, Turbo, Would a Bottoming Tap or a Plug Chamfer Tap be another Tap option? Just a Thought?

Plug Chamfer—Our go-to chamfer type, these thread both through holes and blind holes. The tapered section is shorter than a taper chamfer and longer than bottoming chamfer. As a result, they're easier to turn than bottoming taps but require more force than taper taps.—Our go-to chamfer type, these thread both through holes and blind holes. The tapered section is shorter than a taper chamfer and longer than bottoming chamfer. As a result, they're easier to turn than bottoming taps but require more force than taper taps.


MaMaster Carr Taps
McMasters-Carr is my Go-To for Tooling, Fasteners and other hard to find Machine-type Tooling etc. They can also ship overnight out when needed.

 

[TURBO200R4]

1) I usually measure the depth of the hole then: 2) Transfer that measurement to a drill bit and; 3) Mark the length/depth on drill bit with Black Electrical Tap.

That way I do go passed and through the bottom of the hole.

Btw, Turbo, Would a Bottoming Tap or a Plug Chamfer Tap be another Tap option? Just a Thought?

Plug Chamfer—Our go-to chamfer type, these thread both through holes and blind holes. The tapered section is shorter than a taper chamfer and longer than bottoming chamfer. As a result, they're easier to turn than bottoming taps but require more force than taper taps.—Our go-to chamfer type, these thread both through holes and blind holes. The tapered section is shorter than a taper chamfer and longer than bottoming chamfer. As a result, they're easier to turn than bottoming taps but require more force than taper taps.


MaMaster Carr Taps
McMasters-Carr is my Go-To for Tooling, Fasteners and other hard to find Machine-type Tooling etc. They can also ship overnight out when needed.

This will be a bottoming hole and definitely do not drill through
You will only have one choice on the tap for helicoil in the kit.

 

[bebsy]

Metric helicoils is harder to install than stander threads
A few pointers
I would would have the one insta
Put two bolts (closest to the one you will be working on) in and that will give you a visual way to keep your drill aligned while drilling
Do not drill all the way thru the case. It should go easy at first then I can tell when the drill bottoms in the hole but you can also visually check
These helicoils are made for tapping all the way threw so considering what is at stake I would tap it to the bottom then grind of 1/16 of the tap so you can get an extra turn when inserting the helicoil.
What you don't want to do is force that coil into the area that is not thread.
When in doubt I have taken a die grinder an cut a one coil off that is sticking out metric helicoils is harder to start requiring more pressure to start.
I would have the one installing the coil read this because it is going to be easy to mess up that motor.
Any questions just sing out
Hth

I have ordered a kit the helicoil come with a tang which requires leaving a required gap at the bottom when inserted to allow it to be broken off which I wasn't to happy about and which came in different lengths so I counted the depth of thread on the bolt and I ordered length 2d which apparently when fitted has 10 threads, I'm handy but abit nervy about this if I'm honest with it being were it is, I'll take some pics of the kit when it arrives over the nxt few days meantime I'll try to find someone who has some experience which is hard to come by round these parts

Thinking about as it never pulled the complete thread out but just backs off when tightning was down to the modded earth strap and washer to stop it turning when tightening which blew the thread as I gave it the recommended torque... he says now

 

[Tripps]

I can't understand the last sentence at all.