head light relay/ignition switch bypass

[HellFire]

I did the dirty deed before thinking about the extended leads, but I can tell you that going with the switched low beams is nice for starting on cold days or after it's been sitting awhile. It allows for turning off the lights prior to cranking it over for extra start juice, and just to turn them off whenever. I put a switch down on the right plastic triangle just behind the motor (might be a bad spot since I've burned my hand a couple times) so I can shut them off and be "stealthy" (I disabled the parking lights while I had them apart).

 

[RatBoy]

OK, so I've been putting off ordering the relay kit because I can't make up my mind which one to get (to switch or not to switch). How much length needs to be added to fit the relays under the tank? Just askin'.

When I added to mine (H4 dual Headlight relay kit), I made both plugs the exact same length. By doing so, I put the relays up in the neck and ran each plug around the left/right side of the neck and into the buckets. It also gave me the flexibilty to run the power down either side of the frame.

If you wanted more room to play with, make both leads the same length and then add 8-10 inches to both in between the plug-ends and the relays.

If you are debating, switched/un-switched because you want to disable the headlight when you're working on your bike.... plug the fuse.

It's a one less thing to go wrong.... Switches burn out.

Also, the third plug, plugs into one of your exist headlight plugs to work the hi-low beam. I've ridden a couple of times in a gulley-washer and haven't had a problem.