Great piece of Engineering

DEcosse

If it's no Scottish it's CRAP!
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Jun 8, 2011
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Location
Bay Area, CA
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Triumph Daytona (Custom)
This is ironic given that I design and make KEY-LESS systems :D

But although this might not be applicable for most of you, thought it was interesting and a great piece of original American Engineering (vs. some some Chinese knock-off thing!)

Preface:
Toyota and Lexus Keys are infamous for breaking, with the blade snapping out of the plastic shell - don't know how mine lasted so long, but the Mrs managed to prove the point a week or so ago.
I initially purchased a replacement 'flip-out' type key off EBay, where the seller only needed a digital pic of the original to ship it pre-cut. All initially looked great with that - inserted in the ignition and started right up. So far so good - until I went to remove it!!!! - was unable to turn the key far enough back anti-clockwise to the removal position. Took me a little bit to figure out why - it requires the center of the lock to be pushed in with the key, to allow it to rotate fully to the left (over the years this action becomes sub-conscious so had to scratch on that till brain clicked); I could see the bulk of the remote shell would not allow the ignition to go any further in i.e. the key was too short! I managed to reach the screws in the shell with it still in place, and disassemble - then I could push it in and turn to the withdrawal position.
Phew! ......... or so I thought! Now the key would not come out, sticking about half-way!!! More panic!
After pushing in/out over the small range it did have multiple times, and slowly increasing the force, I was relieved it came out.
So two problems with that one
1. The physical element of the key - whether that be key blade too short or the remote shell too big, would not allow it to be pushed in to allow rotation back to the withdrawal position.
2. The cut on the key was not 100% right, as it would slide in freely, but clearly in reverse direction one element of the cams was catching
Seller of course insisted that had sold hundreds so it could not possibly be too short, nor did he have anything longer; however he has agreed (without any coercion I would add, to his merit) to refund.

The REAL Solution:
I wanted to avoid a repeat of the situation:
an OEM key is ridiculously expensive for what it is, needs to be cut and is subject to the same failure mechanism;
found another solution called the "Eternity Key" which claims to be unbreakable - cost of that is $120 but again must be cut on top of that (& only available through Lexus Dealers - so looking at a net of about $160 with tax);

Then I stumbled across this one

protosidebartitanium.png



YotaMD.com - Products - Titanium Key Fob Shell - Toyota and Lexus

Here is video of the assembly instructions, that shows all the piece parts and how well this thing has been engineered!


It re-uses the original Blade, so no cutting required.

I think this is an absolutely incredible piece of small engineering - have been corresponding with the Developer (he's in CO, USA) and seems like really good guy.

You may not have use for this personally, but thought you might all be interested by a sweet piece of engineering.
 
SO, Ken,
Since I/we R2R owners still need a key to remove our seat, can this be modified for use as a single fob/key with your keyless system???
 
That's a great idea Steve - so what you're suggesting is to integrate the OEM plain key with the Key-Less remote into a single package (similar to above)

2102TPKETR1lg.jpg



I'll mention it to him but I seriously doubt if the very small volumes involved would make it viable though.
You just have to go with a key-less seat release like mine :D


I do still carry my key for the gas cap however and just keep it and the remote on the same ring.
For the limited amount of use the key gets (for seat and/or gas cap) although it would be really slick, not sure of the real 'need'.
 
Ken,
Actually, my thought is integrating this key and eliminating your fob.
If it can be done - you da man!
I'll pay - let me know.
PS: Hope you're still coming up for RAA West?!?!
Let me know if there is anything I can do to make this happen . . .
 
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Great write up @DEcosse .
I bought a bunch of blank Triumph keys on eBay from China at about Au$5 each. After I got them cut here at a proper key cutter, using my originals as templates, I was wondering why they wouldn't work properly. Either too tight or wouldn't go in at all, I figured out one of the fluted channels on the key blade side were too high and gave them a light touch on the grinding wheel and they worked perfectly.

On some they needed to have the blade re-glued into the plastic tab as they pulled out when extracting - I used the broken handle off my Dad's EZ Boy recliner and cut it down and glued the key blade in the end - it makes accessing the R3 behind a screen MUCH easier and although I have one of your marvels fitted now I leave it in the ignition lock to use with petrol cap and seat release as well as steering lock if I ever want to. Nobody would easily see it is a key now and cannot start the bike with it now anyway.
 
Always interested in lightening the load in my pocket!
 
But although this might not be applicable for most of you, thought it was interesting and a great piece of original American Engineering (vs. some some Chinese knock-off thing!).
Actually it's a sign of how poor the original Toyota design is. And I'll bet they are no different to 90% of fob keys. The wife's Citroen for one. Thankfully my dear old land rover uses good old fashioned button less keys. Bought a generic replacement (because I thought I had lost one) and found (happily) it had more metal.
 
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