Gearbox issue

Doesn't sound like you've done any catastrophic damage at this stage. You'd know if teeth were missing.
 
If it were me and of course its not. I would first ride it **** into fourth and when you shift via toe or heal just do not release pressure on the shifter like Ken said. Your badicslly not letting the detent wheel and sprocket to not load up for the next shift. Anyway while holding it in gear give her some throttle and see if you fill the slip you've been talking about. If the answer is no and it was mee I'd be looking at the detent spring. Especially since yours is a 09 bike which means the engine could have been built in 08 say mid to the end of 08 and sold as a 09. Anyway detent spring is a 4 hour job mucking about. 2 hours if you done opened her up as many times as some of us. It can be scoped thru the front water pump hole in the clutch cover. Coolant drained , and oil either drained or the front peg rails up on jack stands so all the oil in the some area runs to the rear of the engine. (Another how to cutt time on clutch change. Along with not pulling the wheel and mud guard) below is a scope shot of a good detent spring.
DetentSpringInspection.jpg


Now of course you can just pull the radiator and clutch cover at this point if you do not have or want to deal with a scope. If its not broke well then if your going to continue on with the work yourself your already ahead. If its broke well another couple hours and your riding down the road for about 30 buck plus fluids. Good time to look at the 10 year old coolant hoses. Like mine there original and well preempted strike is better then sitting in a gas station parking lot trying to cobble a automobile hose to do the job. Just a thought. As its the first thing I'm doing to mine when I get back. Plus one or two other goodies :D
 
@Jag was pretty close....3 rebuilds in 2yrs all different causes (the second time was parts failure due in the clutch PROBABLY caused by over-torquing a bolt so a human error not machine failure)

Yes you have to pull the engine for trans repairs. I save at least AUD 2000 by doing the work myself. It would cost around AUD 4000 to rebuild the complete trans using OEM spares.

R3's are very easy to work on - I'm not a mechanic but i can use a torque wrench and follow a workshop manual so the repairs weren't difficult,just took my time.

Search gearbox and trans issues and you'll find several threads that will help you understand your current 4th gear symptoms a bit better.
Thanks everyone for advice to date. Going to try holding the shift in 4th as per 'The Kid' and will report back.
 
Back again!! I tried out the suggestion by The Kid, holding the shifter up in 4th whilst putting it under load and it still jumps. I fear the only option is a strip down so if anyone out there has any videos/notes/advice I will be most grateful.
 
Back again!! I tried out the suggestion by The Kid, holding the shifter up in 4th whilst putting it under load and it still jumps. I fear the only option is a strip down so if anyone out there has any videos/notes/advice I will be most grateful.
If it were me since the frame will have to come off the engine to split it. I would first pull the front fender leaving the wheel in place for now. this saves the fender from being damaged. Then I would drain the oil and coolant. The coolant by loosening the three bolt on the water pump cover three or four turns so you can stick a screw driver in the slots to pop the cover loose, allowing the coolant to drain in a pan. Unhook electronics to fan and pull the radiator Leaving the lower hose attached to the radiator and the cover so it lines right back up for you when you go together with her. (you will be removing all radiator shrouds first of course and leave the front screen on her for protection). Then I would pull the clutch cover bolts all of them which will also release the lower clutch cable clamps which will make it easy to remove the cable from the crank arm with ease. It will also release the chrome coolant tube at the engine pry it out till it frees up while pulling the coolant pump out leave together again for ease of alignment. Anyway once the cover is off visually inspect the detent spring for signs of failure. If by luck it is well once you have the spring and cover gasket your riding in a few hours. if its not broke you haven't wasted any time as you would be pulling all the stuff off you just did anyway.
Hope this helps some
 
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Always does Warp...
Hi again and thanks for your suggestions. I have been pontificating and have decided to strip the bike myself. My query now is how do you support the engine whilst you remove the frame. I have bought a 'quad' jack and have a plate to fasten to the bottom of the frame so that the bike is properly supported when working on it, however, if I do this the plate is on the frame so I will not be able to lift it off the engine. The sump does not look strong enough to support the whole bike whilst I strip it.
 
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