Cheers mate appreciated , ill have to hunt one down local though as im a bit stretched time wise and i only have next Friday to have it done before going away for a couple weeks
Found the Bazzztid
- Thread starter Wrecka
- Start date
I was always perplexed as to why it never seemed to make the same down low power as my previous R3 , now i know
cusso ken
Living Legend
Confused me mate , happy easter to yu and the family alsoG'day Sean happy Easter ,BTW can I have a pup out of that hat
cusso ken
Living Legend
Its just a saying some old blokes use when someone has a unusual hat,
Back together , not coughing through throttle body on idle now, i set the TPS in range and tomorrow i need to sync throttle bodies. I think the TPS my be rooted though as im still getting very choppy running when trying to move along slow in first 3 gears , coughing through throttle bodies and massive backfiring , tomorrow ill take the TPS off and see if theres a way to clean it. Bike runs fine on the highway when RPMs up around 3000.
After some more research seems my bikes sheitful performance/symptoms could be attributed to a faulty MAP sensor , will try and get one today to at least take it out of the equation
What problems can a faulty or poorly connected MAP sensor give?:
Anything that interferes with the MAP sensor's ability to monitor the pressure differential may upset the fuel mixture and ignition timing. This includes a problem with the MAP sensor itself, bad electrical grounds or open circuits in the sensor wiring, and/or vacuum leaks in the intake manifold or hose that connects the sensor to the engine.
Typical driveability symptoms that may be MAP sensor related include:
* Surging, snatching and poor low-speed behaviour.
* Rough, uneven idle or, in extreme cases, no idle at all.
* A rich fuel condition, which may cause spark plug fouling and stop the plug/cylinder from firing altogether.
* Detonation or pre-ignition due to too much spark advance and a lean fuel ratio.
* Loss of power and/or fuel economy due to retarded timing and an excessively rich fuel ratio.
A vacuum leak will reduce intake vacuum and cause the MAP sensor to indicate a higher than normal load on the engine. The computer will try to compensate by richening the fuel mixture and retarding timing -- which hurts fuel economy, performance and emissions. In some cases, specially with leaking sensor hoses, the cylinder won't be able to burn the excessively rich mixture, fouling the plug with raw fuel.
This, of course, is the opposite of what would happen if there was a vacuum leak on a carburetted engine. On those it would merely run a little leaner at idle, creating idle instability and stalling and a little off-idle acceleration hesitation or flat spot. An air leak on a MAP sensor vacuum line is a lot more problematic.
Conversely, a restriction in the air intake (such as a dirty and blocked air filter), may produce higher than normal vacuum readings. This would result in a load-low indication from the MAP sensor and a lean fuel condition.
Notice that, once more, this is the opposite of what would happen with carburetted engines, where a blocked air filter would create a rich mixture condition. Very confusing, specially for those that believe that EFI and carburation are essentially the same...
The fitting of big, lumpy hot cams with large valve overlap specs can cause pressure fluctuations in the intake manifold at light load. These fluctuations are known to confuse MAP sensors. You'll find that vacuum drops at low rpm and the engine will run too rich. Not likely to happen with mild road cams though.
What problems can a faulty or poorly connected MAP sensor give?:
Anything that interferes with the MAP sensor's ability to monitor the pressure differential may upset the fuel mixture and ignition timing. This includes a problem with the MAP sensor itself, bad electrical grounds or open circuits in the sensor wiring, and/or vacuum leaks in the intake manifold or hose that connects the sensor to the engine.
Typical driveability symptoms that may be MAP sensor related include:
* Surging, snatching and poor low-speed behaviour.
* Rough, uneven idle or, in extreme cases, no idle at all.
* A rich fuel condition, which may cause spark plug fouling and stop the plug/cylinder from firing altogether.
* Detonation or pre-ignition due to too much spark advance and a lean fuel ratio.
* Loss of power and/or fuel economy due to retarded timing and an excessively rich fuel ratio.
A vacuum leak will reduce intake vacuum and cause the MAP sensor to indicate a higher than normal load on the engine. The computer will try to compensate by richening the fuel mixture and retarding timing -- which hurts fuel economy, performance and emissions. In some cases, specially with leaking sensor hoses, the cylinder won't be able to burn the excessively rich mixture, fouling the plug with raw fuel.
This, of course, is the opposite of what would happen if there was a vacuum leak on a carburetted engine. On those it would merely run a little leaner at idle, creating idle instability and stalling and a little off-idle acceleration hesitation or flat spot. An air leak on a MAP sensor vacuum line is a lot more problematic.
Conversely, a restriction in the air intake (such as a dirty and blocked air filter), may produce higher than normal vacuum readings. This would result in a load-low indication from the MAP sensor and a lean fuel condition.
Notice that, once more, this is the opposite of what would happen with carburetted engines, where a blocked air filter would create a rich mixture condition. Very confusing, specially for those that believe that EFI and carburation are essentially the same...
The fitting of big, lumpy hot cams with large valve overlap specs can cause pressure fluctuations in the intake manifold at light load. These fluctuations are known to confuse MAP sensors. You'll find that vacuum drops at low rpm and the engine will run too rich. Not likely to happen with mild road cams though.
cr0ft
Living Legend
That made me look back on previous threads and one mentions that the vacuum hose connected to it is cheap rubber (thanks, Triumph) and can just fall apart, and the suggestion was a silicone vac hose replacement. Might be something to add to the shopping list, 3 feet worth.
Yeah good call Croft , i went over all hoses over the Easter break but that doesnt mean i havnt missed somthing , will definately get some new silicone hose and even a MAP sensor
Finally fixed the issues of backfiring and spitting , fix was eaily and cheap. What was happening was the map sensor vacum lines were heating up enough to become soft undr opperating temps and collapsing enough to restrict flow causing errattic signals to the map sensor resulting in poor fuel mapping sub 2500 rpm. I bought a length of 3mm sillicon vacuum pipe the boy racers use for their boost guages. I then measured alenghth against an OEM hose and added an extra 3rd before cutting, i cut 2 more to the same length and fitted them, all hoses were fitted using nice big loops and map sensor ways placed as far forward up on top of other wiring harnesses, the OEM single larger hose from the junctin to the Map sensor was retained as its integrity diddnt seem to becompimised from the heat, bike hasnt run this good from new.
Similar threads
