Fork seal replacement

Speedy said:

This can be done without removing the upper tubes from the triple tree. After removing the wheel, brakes and fender, remove the bottom bolt and sealing washer. Use an extended length hex tool, they are available with 3/8" square drive, and an air impact wrench. Do not use a ball end tool as the bolt has a short engagement length and doing so will ruin the bolt. One fast blast and the bolt is out. Some oil but not all will drain out and the lower tube will be free to slide off so catch it or block it. Remove the caps from the handle bar risers and lay the handle bar assembly on the tank on a cloth to protect the tank. No need to disconnect anything as you need just enough room to remove the fork caps. Once the fork caps are un-threaded from the upper fork tube, the entire inner cartridge can be pulled up and removed. From here you can change springs, replace seals or dust boots. Remove the spring to pump the cartridge (actually it is just a form of shock absorber) to remove internal oil.

To put it back together reverse the order. The bottom bolt has a copper crush washer that can be re-used several times but they are also available at auto part stores as copper washers are also used on banjo style brake fittings. Use the impact driver to run the bolt up snuggly and then finish with a torque wrench.

Before installing the top caps add oil by using the volume method (Walmart sells plastic kitchen bowls/pitchers with graduated volume markings.) Pour fork oil into the measuring "cup" to the correct volume for one tube and pour it into the tube. Screw in the cap. Repeat for the other tube. Re-assemble the rest. Rock the bike back and forth with the front brake on to fill the cartridge before test riding; you will feel it happen as you rock back and forth.

This method is fast compared to the book method. However, be aware that once the bottom bolt is loosened even a little it must either come all the way out or go back in using the air impact tool. If you run into a problem with the cartridge spinning with the bolt still engaged you will have to resort to the book method and use a suitable tool to engage the top of the cartridge to hold it from rotating while removing and tightening the lower bolt.

I even leave the wheel, brakes and fender attached when I want to remove just the cartidges and don't need to access the seals or dust covers, just block up the bike at full fork extension and remove the front axle to get at the lower fork bolts, leaving wheel, brakes and fender in place.

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nolton said:

Lift and secure the bike where you can slide the forks down and off the bike.

Before removing the wheel, loosen the caps (#12). Do not loosen them all the way out.
Remove the fender, wheel and fork protectors. Tie off the brake calipers in a secure location.
Remove the forks, hold the outer/upper tube (#4) as you loosen the cap (#12).
Ease the upper tube down then use the spring compressor tool on the spacer tube (#11) upper holes.
After you unthread the cap (#12) from the stepped cylinder (#7), pull the outer/upper tube (#4) up and off.
Remove the spring and everything else. The stepped cylinder (#7) will not come out.
Drain all the fork oil. To get all of it out you will have to pump the stepped cylinder.
R3Tex used a puddly knife to remove the dust seal (#29) and a screw driver for the snap ring (#28) and the fork seal (#27).
Replace the seals
Using the manual specs for fork oil, pour NEW OIL in the lower/inner tube (#5).
Pump the stepped cylinder (#7) many times until you feel a smooth hydraulic action.
We used the measuring marks on the fork oil level tool to set the correct height of the fork oil in the tube by drawing off the excess oil.

Tie off the end of the string, about 3.5' long, just under the nut on the upper end of the stepped cylinder (#7) then install the outer/upper tube (#4) to the lower making sure the string goes thru the tube.
Reinstall the spring and other bits that came out while running the string thru them.
Using the string to lift the stepped cylinder (#7) use the spring compressor tool to reinstall the cap (#12) on the threads of the stepped cylinder (#7)
Remove the string and thread the cap (#12) into the outer/upper (#4). You will tighten the cap after you have the forks securely installed on the bike.
Install the forks on the bike. Make sure the top of the outer/upper tube (#4) is flush with the top of the yoke.
Reinstall the wheel, fender, brakes, etc.
Double check ALL BOLTS !!!!
You want EVERYTHING secure.

Let me know if I need to add anything.
Good luck.

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Zen2osho said:

My Rocket is 2012,I was enjoying the shocks for the past 6000 miles in the bike and there are some serious potholes in our roads".

Yesterday i saw the oil coming out of the LH fork, i didnt notice it as it happened during the ride and rode 20 miles with it!


I will buy the tools u listed! Do i need to replace the spring ( Item no 9)"???

Im buying the following,
1. Item no 13 -- 02 nos
2. Item no 26, 27,28,29- 02 nos.

Is it all??

Should i replace the ones in the RH side too!

Please respond. Thanks Zen

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nolton said:

You don't have to replace the spring but you can if you want a better one.
Progressive makes one.

When replacing fork seals always do both sides.
It's very unsafe to replace one side.

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