Fork seal replacement

[nolton]

First I would like to thank R3Tex, Hanso and Mike for helping me with this job. They actually pushed me out of the way because they were curious about it.
It was all fun anyway !! Great friends.
I'm sure one person could do this job but two make it much easier.

First, the tools.
The manual would have you buy the expensive stuff. Screw that !!

This and some string is all you need.
The manual would have you buy one more tool but the string worked.
it works in place of # 6.

 

[nolton]

Lift and secure the bike where you can slide the forks down and off the bike.

Before removing the wheel, loosen the caps (#12). Do not loosen them all the way out.
Remove the fender, wheel and fork protectors. Tie off the brake calipers in a secure location.
Remove the forks, hold the outer/upper tube (#4) as you loosen the cap (#12).
Ease the upper tube down then use the spring compressor tool on the spacer tube (#11) upper holes.
After you unthread the cap (#12) from the stepped cylinder (#7), pull the outer/upper tube (#4) up and off.
Remove the spring and everything else. The stepped cylinder (#7) will not come out.
Drain all the fork oil. To get all of it out you will have to pump the stepped cylinder.
R3Tex used a puddly knife to remove the dust seal (#29) and a screw driver for the snap ring (#28) and the fork seal (#27).
Replace the seals
Using the manual specs for fork oil, pour NEW OIL in the lower/inner tube (#5).
Pump the stepped cylinder (#7) many times until you feel a smooth hydraulic action.
We used the measuring marks on the fork oil level tool to set the correct height of the fork oil in the tube by drawing off the excess oil.

Tie off the end of the string, about 3.5' long, just under the nut on the upper end of the stepped cylinder (#7) then install the outer/upper tube (#4) to the lower making sure the string goes thru the tube.
Reinstall the spring and other bits that came out while running the string thru them.
Using the string to lift the stepped cylinder (#7) use the spring compressor tool to reinstall the cap (#12) on the threads of the stepped cylinder (#7)
Remove the string and thread the cap (#12) into the outer/upper (#4). You will tighten the cap after you have the forks securely installed on the bike.
Install the forks on the bike. Make sure the top of the outer/upper tube (#4) is flush with the top of the yoke.
Reinstall the wheel, fender, brakes, etc.
Double check ALL BOLTS !!!!
You want EVERYTHING secure.

Let me know if I need to add anything.
Good luck.

 

[nolton]

took an hour to write this up

 

[cardinal93]

Great write up! Thank you! I'm thinking sticky thread

 

[Rocket Scientist]

Great write up! Thank you! I'm thinking sticky thread

A cowboy and an Indian are on the prairie. The Indian stoops down and puts his ear to the ground. Hmmm...buffalo come. "That's amazing" the cowboy exclaimed. How could you tell ? "Sticky" replied the Indian.

 

[STRIPES]

A cowboy and an Indian are on the prairie. The Indian stoops down and puts his ear to the ground. Hmmm...buffalo come. "That's amazing" the cowboy exclaimed. How could you tell ? "Sticky" replied the Indian.

Said it before and I'll say it again. Fred, you are a sick sick man.

 

[idk]

Good write up @nolton. Those tools are definitely cheaper than the OEM stuff as well.

 

[scot in exile]

Has Hanso not figured this out yet, You have been kidnapped my good man Nolton and the rest of his evil gang are using you to fix every bike they can find then they will sell you into the southern sex trade so you can say goodbye to your wee island forever, just change the words in Botany Bay from England to Australia

 

[Rocket Scientist]

Has Hanso not figured this out yet, You have been kidnapped my good man Nolton and the rest of his evil gang are using you to fix every bike they can find then they will sell you into the southern sex trade so you can say goodbye to your wee island forever, just change the words in Botany Bay from England to Australia

He's been conscripted ?

 

[Speedy]

This can be done without removing the upper tubes from the triple tree. After removing the wheel, brakes and fender, remove the bottom bolt and sealing washer. Use an extended length hex tool, they are available with 3/8" square drive, and an air impact wrench. Do not use a ball end tool as the bolt has a short engagement length and doing so will ruin the bolt. One fast blast and the bolt is out. Some oil but not all will drain out and the lower tube will be free to slide off so catch it or block it. Remove the caps from the handle bar risers and lay the handle bar assembly on the tank on a cloth to protect the tank. No need to disconnect anything as you need just enough room to remove the fork caps. Once the fork caps are un-threaded from the upper fork tube, the entire inner cartridge can be pulled up and removed. From here you can change springs, replace seals or dust boots. Remove the spring to pump the cartridge (actually it is just a form of shock absorber) to remove internal oil.

To put it back together reverse the order. The bottom bolt has a copper crush washer that can be re-used several times but they are also available at auto part stores as copper washers are also used on banjo style brake fittings. Use the impact driver to run the bolt up snuggly and then finish with a torque wrench.

Before installing the top caps add oil by using the volume method (Walmart sells plastic kitchen bowls/pitchers with graduated volume markings.) Pour fork oil into the measuring "cup" to the correct volume for one tube and pour it into the tube. Screw in the cap. Repeat for the other tube. Re-assemble the rest. Rock the bike back and forth with the front brake on to fill the cartridge before test riding; you will feel it happen as you rock back and forth.

This method is fast compared to the book method. However, be aware that once the bottom bolt is loosened even a little it must either come all the way out or go back in using the air impact tool. If you run into a problem with the cartridge spinning with the bolt still engaged you will have to resort to the book method and use a suitable tool to engage the top of the cartridge to hold it from rotating while removing and tightening the lower bolt.

I even leave the wheel, brakes and fender attached when I want to remove just the cartidges and don't need to access the seals or dust covers, just block up the bike at full fork extension and remove the front axle to get at the lower fork bolts, leaving wheel, brakes and fender in place.