Fork Plug's ? ?

Bottom or top its not that important. You still have to dismantle the forks to put the spacer in.
You can put a jack under the engine, unscrew the fork caps and lower the bike so the spacer tube and spring rises up out of the forks. Taking them apart is not necessary to replace the springs or spacer and can be done right on the bike. In fact doing it this way you don't have to put then in a vise or risk scaring the finish anywhere.

Some will say that the oil needs to be dumped out and changed but if the bike is newer and the oil clean without leaking seals, why change it? If you want to just change to a different weight, a length of vacuum hose or something similar can be lowered into the forks and the oil sucked or siphoned out. If you are dealing with an older/high mileage bike ridden in dirty conditions, turning them upside down and cleaning out sediment would be advisable. But even in some of my really old bikes the oil was never dirty as long as the seals were good.
 
You can put a jack under the engine, unscrew the fork caps and lower the bike so the spacer tube and spring rises up out of the forks. Taking them apart is not necessary to replace the springs or spacer and can be done right on the bike. In fact doing it this way you don't have to put then in a vise or risk scaring the finish anywhere.

Some will say that the oil needs to be dumped out and changed but if the bike is newer and the oil clean without leaking seals, why change it? If you want to just change to a different weight, a length of vacuum hose or something similar can be lowered into the forks and the oil sucked or siphoned out. If you are dealing with an older/high mileage bike ridden in dirty conditions, turning them upside down and cleaning out sediment would be advisable. But even in some of my really old bikes the oil was never dirty as long as the seals were good.

At a minimum then he has to clear the fairing to raise the tubes in the triple tree I would think. The manual has pretty good instructions to pull the forks apart, and I believe Bishop (.com site) has a traveling tool kit for spring change out. That's where I got the tools when I changed the springs out. Good Luck.
 
Okay. If I'm understanding you guys right. I can raise the bike where the front tire is off the ground. Remove the fork caps and lift the fork assembly out. Then insert a plug and reassemble as long as I do not need to change the oil at this time.

I would think that there would be a snap ring under the cap that holds the spring assembly in place since the cap isn't. Is this correct?

Then lift the spring out and insert plug and re assemble. Correct? Are there any special tools needed?

Thanks guys,

Big T
 
T it still requires going through the special tool and compression steps per the service manual, it's just that you can do it while the forks are still on the bike.

You don't want the front wheel completely off the ground but just touching. And while unscrewing the top caps, if it becomes difficult to turn them just slightly lower or raise the front end with the jack. You have to imagine that the caps are attached to the lower tubes via the spring, and by raising and lowering the front the caps (spacer and spring too) will raise and lower with the jack.

I strongly suggest you look up the spring removal procedure that lists the special tools needed to do the job. I did it without the special tool and used two screw drivers instead, it hurt my hands and was very difficult to control. The flat/sheet steel keeper is easy enough to make yourself, but the tool that looks like a die holder is not something most have just lying about.

As long as you remove the springs slowly and allow the oil to drip off back into the fork tubes, you shouldn't loose any fork oil. I didn't have to add any when I replaced my springs.

It's also a good idea to have two people, the second person doesn't need to be a mechanic or anything ... you just need someone to slip the keeper in and out while you depress the spring with the tool.

Don't attack it without reviewing the service manual.
 
The service manual provides very clear instructions (otherwise I'd have zero probablity of doing it and then riding the result). Hellfire if memory serves whined about his hands after his tool adaptations to perform the procedure (enough so I thought a good soft tilset might be in order (a little whine and cheese)). Take your time and understand what you need to do before just jumping in and screwing it up (i.e. the Atomsplitter Methodology).
 
Are you taking lessons on the .com site in how to be a ****?

Don't you have a book signing to go to?
 
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