Engine oil and filter

[TURBO200R4]

when mine had low miles i used 10-40 syn now because i have a lot of miles and it is hot here i went to 20-50 syn
i use lucas 20-50 synthetic just here lately.

 

[sonny]

The oil isn't "designed" for an air cooled motor it's simply a wet clutch compatible oil in 50w. My 06 is spec'ed for 50w so that's why it's in there. Warp9.9 recommended I run it and his word is plenty good enough for me any day.

Good luck.

 

[Gregger]

Here we go with another oil thread.... Use any synthetic multi grade oil designed for motorcycle use (JASO, API, MA/MA2, etc). These won't affect the clutch and cause premature slipping problems because they don't have friction modifiers. 10W40 or 15W50 are recommended. The 40 or 50 number is what's important for most motorcycle engines since we don't normally drive in freezing temps (10W or 15W number). The W stands for winter or cold weather use. Generally I use a multi grade 40 weight in cooler temps(Mobil 4T or Amzoil 10W40). With the consistently high temps in the deep south I'd be temped to run a straight 50 weight synthetic to reduce viscosity breakdown caused by the tranny. Up north here, I've even run 5W40 diesel oil (Shell Rotella T6) which meets the Triumph requirements with no issues. Everyone has their own preferences.

Purchase the cheapest full synthetic motorcycle oil available so long as they meet the Triumph requirements for motorcycle engines.

 

[Gerald]

Would like everyone's recommendations on engine oil viscosity and brand to use. Have an 05 rocket III with approx. 350 miles on complete build. Have always used Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10w-40 and usually a Wix filter. I have read several articles about using heaver viscosity oils and different filters. Plan on changing oil and filter around 400 miles. Might use the Mobil again this time and change again before going to a tuner. Ride intermediately until spring. Would appreciate your thoughts and recommendations. Thanks in advance Gerald

Thanks to everyone for their replies.

 

[Lemieuxfan]

word of caution dipping toes in to the oil unknown...bike may shift better but I believe you run the risk of your gasket crimping on the valve cover. I sure am not a fan of the tractor feel our old rockets have but i would rather have that than bleeding oil on the right side...

also was able to add rear crash bars recently via ebay; actually i like the look they give and provides additional security.

 

[Gregger]

word of caution dipping toes in to the oil unknown...bike may shift better but I believe you run the risk of your gasket crimping on the valve cover. I sure am not a fan of the tractor feel our old rockets have but i would rather have that than bleeding oil on the right side...

I'm a bit confused. Are you saying the viscosity of oil you run may affect the condition of your valve cover gasket?? I strongly disagree.

As @warp9.9 stated earlier, the thicker viscosity helps the tranny a lot. Usually thicker is better for gears (to a point). That's one of the reasons we run a multi grade in our bikes (along with making cold weather starts easier). Oil is used by the engine and tranny. The viscosity is a compromise. With automotive car engines don't need to worry about the shearing factor gears present so they use a lower viscosity even down to a 0W20 in some instances giving better gas mileage. We run a 40 or 50 weight mainly to help deal with friction in the tranny which really has no effect on gaskets.

 

[Lemieuxfan]

I'm a bit confused. Are you saying the viscosity of oil you run may affect the condition of your valve cover gasket?? I strongly disagree.

As @warp9.9 stated earlier, the thicker viscosity helps the tranny a lot. Usually thicker is better for gears (to a point). That's one of the reasons we run a multi grade in our bikes (along with making cold weather starts easier). Oil is used by the engine and tranny. The viscosity is a compromise. With automotive car engines don't need to worry about the shearing factor gears present so they use a lower viscosity even down to a 0W20 in some instances giving better gas mileage. We run a 40 or 50 weight mainly to help deal with friction in the tranny which really has no effect on gaskets.

good points - I am currently on the regular castrol I can tell my bike is due for a change however I may go back and put in what i used previously motul 7100 10w40 4T its good oil i think it holds up better than the castrol

 

[SteveC]

Being a Diesel Mechanic here in Australia this is an intetesting topic and I believe the results are transferable
We have found folks that run low viscosity oils tend to build up more carbon in the exhaust manifold and on top of pistons

In the Rocket 3 I believe Triumph has got it right, it's pretty warm where I am and I would be running a full synthetic 15W 50

15 for easy starts and cold warm up and 50 for the gears and lower Maintenence in the long run

Also, it's a common misconception that you don't need to warm up your motor, the reasons for a good warm up is to get the oil up to tempiture so it can lubricant properly before you rev it to hard when it's cold
A 1 minute warm up period would be a minimum in my opinion, also on the other side a good thumping up to near redline at least once a fortnight to keep the motor running clean

 

[mcather]

I use K & N Chrome filter and 10/50 Castrol MC Synthetic Oil and a 4 oz bottle of ZDDP every 6500 miles.
I have 25K on my 2013 R3T. Change rear end gear oil at each oil change.

 

[baadactor]

I've always used Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40, but this time I went for Super Tech Full Synthetic 10W-40 from Walmart cuz they were out of the Mobil 1. The amount of miles I put on and the style of riding I do I suspect it doesn't matter which brand of oil I use.