Engine is making oil.

[Claviger]

Some gas smell in oil tank is fairly common on Roadsters, don't think I've ever sniffed a Roadster oil tank that didn't have faint gas odor present, including mine which has negative pressure in the engine bottom.

As for overfilling, complete non-issue, doesn't matter unless it's leaking out the oil tank lol.

As for running rougher ... You put schmutz in the gas, it's going to run rougher until the schmutz is fully burned off. The only thing that should be going in gas tanks that's not gas is Torco Accelerator, and only on bikes that actually need it. Fuel stabilizer is unnecessary if stored with a full tank of premium for less than a year IMHO.

 

[Mongler07]

As for overfilling, complete non-issue, doesn't matter unless it's leaking out the oil tank lol.

100% correct, when i did my last oil change, i added a little too much, like the oil is probably 3/4 to a full inch past the max level. its been about 4k and i wont bother with it because i have a small leak when i did the coolant hoses last.
it does not matter as long as its past the fill marking and is not overflowing.

 

[GPMAZ]

My r/65, if I forgot to shut off the peacock, it would drain the entire gas tank into the oil, happened a few times

BMW called that a feature. A BMW mechanic once told me BMW has three terms for oil loss. Weepage, Seepage and Leakage. The first two don't count.

 

[Kevin frazier]

northernrider if i was home in Nashville i would have offered up help

 

[northernrider]

northernrider if i was home in Nashville i would have offered up help

Thank you Kevin. And thanks to everyone else for your comments and suggestions.
I've noticed now, that after a long run on the interstate she idles rough and will stall easily (of coarse the stalling part might be because I'm running rough after the interstate). In the morning she idles great. Not too concerned, just that my 05 didn't react the same on last years trip.
Got into Nashville late last night. It was 600+ mile run. I've got the long haul seat on, was bought new old-stock last year. Put it on just before the trip. I've got 1200 miles on the seat now, so it should be broken in, but ow. It seems to slope down a bit and leaves hot spots on the cheeks that are somehow both painful and numb. Will definitely be investing in a Laam seat over the winter. I think I'm going to try an Airhawk To continue this trip. I'll be heading towards New Orleans on Tuesday. Any places of interest I should check out along the way? On Saturday I'll have to leave from New Orleans to make it home in time to get to work.

Kevin, is there a good spot in or near Nashville to buy an Airhawk? Is there a good place to take a picture of my bike that is easy to access but still screams NASHVILLE?

 

[Kevin frazier]

Thank you Kevin. And thanks to everyone else for your comments and suggestions.
I've noticed now, that after a long run on the interstate she idles rough and will stall easily (of coarse the stalling part might be because I'm running rough after the interstate). In the morning she idles great. Not too concerned, just that my 05 didn't react the same on last years trip.
Got into Nashville late last night. It was 600+ mile run. I've got the long haul seat on, was bought new old-stock last year. Put it on just before the trip. I've got 1200 miles on the seat now, so it should be broken in, but ow. It seems to slope down a bit and leaves hot spots on the cheeks that are somehow both painful and numb. Will definitely be investing in a Laam seat over the winter. I think I'm going to try an Airhawk To continue this trip. I'll be heading towards New Orleans on Tuesday. Any places of interest I should check out along the way? On Saturday I'll have to leave from New Orleans to make it home in time to get to work.

Kevin, is there a good spot in or near Nashville to buy an Airhawk? Is there a good place to take a picture of my bike that is easy to access but still screams NASHVILLE?

cycle gear madison

 

[Kevin frazier]

If youre going through downtown get off on Broadway and head toward the river, tootsies you cant miss down near2nd ave, when you come back up message me we can hook bike up to tune ecu and look at a couple things

 

[northernrider]

Sounds good. Thanks Kevin.

 

[Claviger]

The stalling thing is a service notice, allegedly the dealer can fix it. If you want it fixed for good there are some small changes you can easily make in tune ECU and at the throttle bodies which the dealer won't/can't do.

These are all things I had to do. I had the stalling issue so many roadsters have and the dealer wasn't able to sort it after numerous attempts.

After the below I've never had an unexpected stall in 9 years of ownership (plenty of oops stalls that were my fault though ).

- Raise target idle RPM to 50 over where it is now, helps the ECU catch the stall early before the engine dies to prevent it.
- Add 2 degrees of timing to the whole ignition table below 900 RPM. It helps the engine recover from a stall event by adding power so it can catch itself and recover.
- Adjust the TPS to 0.67v during IACV adjustment. Helps the ECU properly register the actual throttle position and the ECU is less likely to overly close the IACV because it has a correct TPS calibration now.
- With the bike idling and warmed up, turn the closing throttle stop inwards until it "just" kisses the actuation mechanism. This physically prevents the IACV from over closing the throttle during neutral or clutch pulled coasting and mechanically stops it from reaching the stall condition in the first place.

 

[northernrider]

The stalling thing is a service notice, allegedly the dealer can fix it. If you want it fixed for good there are some small changes you can easily make in tune ECU and at the throttle bodies which the dealer won't/can't do.

These are all things I had to do. I had the stalling issue so many roadsters have and the dealer wasn't able to sort it after numerous attempts.

After the below I've never had an unexpected stall in 9 years of ownership (plenty of oops stalls that were my fault though ).

- Raise target idle RPM to 50 over where it is now, helps the ECU catch the stall early before the engine dies to prevent it.
- Add 2 degrees of timing to the whole ignition table below 900 RPM. It helps the engine recover from a stall event by adding power so it can catch itself and recover.
- Adjust the TPS to 0.67v during IACV adjustment. Helps the ECU properly register the actual throttle position and the ECU is less likely to overly close the IACV because it has a correct TPS calibration now.
- With the bike idling and warmed up, turn the closing throttle stop inwards until it "just" kisses the actuation mechanism. This physically prevents the IACV from over closing the throttle during neutral or clutch pulled coasting and mechanically stops it from reaching the stall condition in the first place.

Thank you Claviger,
I was getting a complex about this.
She stalls, I"m like WTF, then overcompensate with the throttle and drag the clutch.
Now I can blame it on the bike