Emission removal

Bob R

Living Legend
Joined
Jul 30, 2012
Messages
2,137
Location
Pahrump, NV
Ride
2013 R3T
Yes, my 2013 R3T had emissions on it. If I put just a tiny too much fuel in it and it overflowed into the canister it would barely run as it tried to put the fuel back into the throttle bodies. It would sometimes happen if I fueled in the AM and then the bike sat at work all day and the fuel heated up, overflowing into the canister. It would spit, sputter, and take an huge amount of throttle (relatively speaking) to keep running.

Well, I finally had enough when I fueled up on a trip and as soon as I pulled out of the gas station it tried to die in front of traffic, not real good.

It was pretty straight forward, trace the hoses, pop them off of the throttle bodies and put 5/32" rubber caps on the tits. Run a new overflow line from the roll over valve to dump onto mother earth and you are done. I wasn't sure what size was going to work so I picked up a boxed assortment at AutoZone. Now I have 26 larger caps they can sell at my estate sale in 30 years or so. ;)

This is what was removed. I wish I had done it sooner. If you want it let me know.

While I was there I inspected the RamAir and it has no issues with cracking or other failures. It has been on for a couple of years now. Clamps are snug and I also have it held on with zip ties, which may be overkill because it sits down on the throttle bodies like it belongs there.

bob


20160731_105638_001[1].jpg
 
Nice work Bob. When I took my canister off I rerouted the hose to the canister back on the TB so it just goes from one TB to another.
Yeah but he said tits which is tits in my book. Thanks for the write up Bob. I didn't know how that was put together but it looks like it will come off my '14 soon.
 
I ended up with a CAN-Bus failure code (P6109?) but it cleared without any problem, just cleared it in Tune ECU. I am not sure why it did that. It may have just been a fluke because no one else doing this has ever mentioned a code being thrown.

bob
 
This thread covers it pretty well. You can either remove all of the hoses and cap the tits on the throttle bodies or just cap/plug the line labeled pipe B in the above thread. I was going to balance my throttle bodies so I removed all of the hoses while I had access. It will take four 5/32" caps to put on the throttle bodies if you remove all of the hoses. You will also need a length of hose to run from the roll-over valve to the ground.

It was pretty straight forward. Don't bother looking for bolts or nuts holding the canister in place, it is zip-tied in place. Just cut the zip ties and it will fall into your hands. If you have a full tank tank of gas before you tilt the tank you may want to put a small piece of hose on the bottom of the roll over valve and plug it.

It opens up quite a bit of space behind the side cover. Quite a few people have mounted a Stebel horn there.

20160731_184550[1].jpg 20160731_184628[1].jpg

bob
 
This thread covers it pretty well. You can either remove all of the hoses and cap the tits on the throttle bodies or just cap/plug the line labeled pipe B in the above thread. I was going to balance my throttle bodies so I removed all of the hoses while I had access. It will take four 5/32" caps to put on the throttle bodies if you remove all of the hoses. You will also need a length of hose to run from the roll-over valve to the ground.

It was pretty straight forward. Don't bother looking for bolts or nuts holding the canister in place, it is zip-tied in place. Just cut the zip ties and it will fall into your hands. If you have a full tank tank of gas before you tilt the tank you may want to put a small piece of hose on the bottom of the roll over valve and plug it.

It opens up quite a bit of space behind the side cover. Quite a few people have mounted a Stebel horn there.

20160731_184550[1].jpg 20160731_184628[1].jpg

bob


Bob you said four 5/32"caps are required if I remove all my hoses I will need six caps!!!!!! I plan on doing it on a 2011Roadster are you sure it was four?
 
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