Eastern Beaver headlight kit question

The 12 minute tune just wasted 12 minutes. Setting the idle with the throttle body set screw worked perfectly though. All it does is open the blades slightly just as if you were holding slight tension on the throttle on the handlebars. I doesn't change a thing in the computer.
 
Tell us a bit about your bike RW is it stock or what are u running pipes and filter wise is it the standard tune or are u using tuneboy/tune ecu or power comander ect.
if it has a custom map in it with tune ecu ect it is possible the idle is set to low and it can be corrected with a laptop and a obdII cable without touching anything else on the bike .
 
Tell us a bit about your bike RW is it stock or what are u running pipes and filter wise is it the standard tune or are u using tuneboy/tune ecu or power comander ect.
if it has a custom map in it with tune ecu ect it is possible the idle is set to low and it can be corrected with a laptop and a obdII cable without touching anything else on the bike .

Bone stock
 
Low Idle

There was a recall for the low idle, Triumph fixed it with an updated map. The neaarest dealer can run your VIN and tell you if your bike was affected and whether or not it was fixed.
 
There was a recall for the low idle, Triumph fixed it with an updated map. The neaarest dealer can run your VIN and tell you if your bike was affected and whether or not it was fixed.

It's all set with a tiny turn of the set screw. I just scanned it, no codes, and it's running right at 800 rpm at idle.
 
OK so I looked at the stock wiring and decided I could do a better job wiring it myself. First of all there is a perfect location for the two relays under the left side cover. (I don't like the EB location under the tank because of the heat from the engine, the amount of wires already there, and the need to lift the tank to service them.) I used the two mounting bolts that hold the battery/air box assemblies. This places the relays right up next to the three factory relays. It's easy to pull the negative wires for the coils in the relays right off the battery as well as the positive feeds for the headlights with an inline fuse right off the battery instead of running all these wires to the front of the bike. It's a better, simpler job.

I then cut the low beam wires (blue/red) and high beam wires (blue/white) after the harness plug in connectors to the headlights (on the right side of the headstock beneath the plastic frame cover), terminated the wires off one plug and ran the wires from the other harness connector back to the relays to trigger the low and high beam relays.

I then ran the power from the relays to the headlight wires that I cut from the harness plug on the right side of the headstock. I just put the two low beam wires together as well as the two high beam wires to the headlights and fed them both with one wire each from the respective low and high beam relays. There was no need to even open the headlights and all wiring in the headlight shell (including the position lights) was not disturbed. This method also saves you the trouble of running a ground wire to the headlights.

The power and switching wires are all run in a plastic split loom that runs from the relays under the left side cover, to the low beam cutoff switch, then crosses over in front of the battery box, then under the gas tank. It was really simple and professionally done. It looks factory. I soldered all wire connections and used marine grade adhesive lined shrink tubing on all terminations and connections then secured and neatened everything up with tie wraps.

And lastly, I installed a switch on the left side black frame cover behind the engine that breaks the low beam trigger wire to the relay so I can shut off the headlights when I want to. Nice location, I can just reach down and switch it but it's not noticeable. I didn't like the aftermarket handlebar switch idea. You really don't need to clutter up the handlebars.

While I was at it, I installed a 12 volt plug in connector on the handlebars for my GPS and I phone.

Now I feel better about riding it. I didn't want to ride the bike that much knowing I was possibly doing damage to the ignition.

I'll post some pictures tomorrow.
 
Oh yeah, the idle is still OK since I backed off on the set screw. I still plan to have the fix done at the dealer when I get a chance, but it's definitely OK for now.
 
Here are some pictures of my headlight wiring upgrade.

Low beam off switch. I used a marine grade water resistant switch. Nice location and a nice feature. I have it wired so that the flashlight (location lights) stay on even when I turn off the low beams:



Fuses feeding the headlight relays and new 12 volt plug on the handlebars.



High and low beam relays. All wiring is soldered with marine grade adhesive lined shrink tubing. There are two factory bolts right there begging to be used. I simply bolted them in place.





12 volt plug for GPS and cell phone.



GPS on bike.



Better picture of my setup. Garmin Nuvi 50 with Ram strap.
 
Back
Top