Clutch adjustment question

[MCR3]

I just installed new levers on my Roadster and am adjusting the freeplay for the clutch cable. I know I need to have 2-3mm play at the lever, but is that prior to any movement of the clutch actuator arm or prior to the point when you can feel the increased resistance of clutch starting disengagement? (Hopefully that makes sense)

Thanks, Mike

 

[warp9.9]

The actuator arm will move with the free play it will seem not as much do to radial rotation verses linear. When the freeplay is gone the pressure actuates the clutch.

 

[MCR3]

The actuator arm will move with the free play it will seem not as much do to radial rotation verses linear. When the freeplay is gone the pressure actuates the clutch.

That's the info I needed. Thanks for the quick help!

 

[scot in exile]

How much free play should be in the actuator arm when pulling up and down

 

[Claviger]

One trick if you've been trying for ages and can't get it "just right".

I start my bike in neutral on the side stand. Let it warm so the idle is smooth as it gets, then put your left hand (no glove) on the actuator arm, now use your right hand to squeeze and release the clutch. You can actually feel through your finger tips the point at which the arm touches the piston in the clutch.

The critical adjustment is critical because you need to make sure when you release the clutch, that feeling is gone, as in the actuator arm isn't touching the piston. I much prefer the touch method to the measurement method, I find it to be much quicker to get right.

PS: This is not a Triumph approved method, but, I did this day 1, the touch method of owning my R3 because the clutch wasn't adjusted right. 8000 miles later, most of it with extra power, not a single clutch issue, still on the original.

 

[barbagris]

BUT - the freeplay method is aimed at the mechanically insensitive. Some of these sadly are dealer mechanics.

 

[MCR3]

One trick if you've been trying for ages and can't get it "just right".

I start my bike in neutral on the side stand. Let it warm so the idle is smooth as it gets, then put your left hand (no glove) on the actuator arm, now use your right hand to squeeze and release the clutch. You can actually feel through your finger tips the point at which the arm touches the piston in the clutch.

The critical adjustment is critical because you need to make sure when you release the clutch, that feeling is gone, as in the actuator arm isn't touching the piston. I much prefer the touch method to the measurement method, I find it to be much quicker to get right.

PS: This is not a Triumph approved method, but, I did this day 1, the touch method of owning my R3 because the clutch wasn't adjusted right. 8000 miles later, most of it with extra power, not a single clutch issue, still on the original.

Thanks, that worked. However, I used a long screwdriver as a "poor man's stethoscope" to listen for the arm touching the piston as I actuated the clutch lever.

 

[mr hunt]

Thanks, that worked. However, I used a long screwdriver as a "poor man's stethoscope" to listen for the arm touching the piston as I actuated the clutch lever.

You stuck a screwdriver in your ear????

 

[MCR3]

You stuck a screwdriver in your ear????

 

[Kevin frazier]

I use warps method, grab the sheath at the lever up on handle pull on it and get the setting you desire 3mm or a nickel and a dime I believe is correct and she shifts smooth and to neutral smooth