Can a Rocket III take down the establishment, and rule this island

I think it'll be something simple like a jubilee needing a squeeze.
But im really getting the hint that they just don't want to do this bike.
Why, is beyond me..
But I'll ask tomorrow when I get there (2 hour drive), and hopefully fix the coolant drip in the parking lot.
The other 2 'obstacles' are nonsense.
Sure enough, talk to the owner and if different, the tuner. If you trust them, have them complete the work. Would be good if you could establish a time and be there while they're doing dyno work.
 
They are frightened of the tremendous power that’s before them . Is the shop known for “tuning” and not just “tooning”.
Do you trust them to run your bike to the very edge ? Sorry to read the events hopefully just a hose . It sounds like your choice of shops is limited.
 
The shop is unfortunately widely considered good, no bad regiews and my past experience was good... but sadly 99% of the business in this country is sport bikes with a new exhaust on it.

Like the factory map was 100% right (ignore trade offs for noise & emissions regs), you stick an aftermarket can on and the map is now 90%.
I get the impression they know how to adjust that map back to 100%.
That level of tuning...

The bike actually got put on the dyno for 13 miles and then it was taken down.

59563.jpg


After picking up the bike again and interrogating the boss/tuner guy, I'm really not convinced.
Apparently "the bike would not go below 91 degrees'.
I was like, why would it go below 91 degrees.. isn't 90-something not the normal operating temperature?
Apparently not.
Apparently normal bikes run 75 - 85°.....
I pointed out that the factory has rad fan come on at like 103°C (I.e. the likes of 99, 100° must be perfectly normal operating temp), his response was all bikes are like that.
OK...?
He insisted 95° was getting dangerously hot so he shut it down.
That conversation was going nowhere.


Re the big coolant leak, yes there was technically a "leak", and by leak i mean a drop fell every 5 secs for about 30 secs until the coolant warmed up a tad and then the weep stops.
There's a little weep out the bottom of the water pump, probably the o-ring or such.


And then the oxygen sensors.
The normal rod that gets dropped into one of the cans wouldnt work apparently because I have 2 cans and the significant pressure of the exhaust was upsetting it. Couldn't get a proper reading.
But I've had this bike and this exhaust on the dyno before, no problem then?
That was before it was supercharged.
Well, it was supercharged one of the times.
He states he's just not going to try tune a bike like this.

So I need to go drill a hole in my exhaust to weld in a bung to take a screw in O2 sensor, up at the collector.
There's already one there, the one my sensor is in.
Oh noes, that sensor is too far back, it's 4" down from the collector.
Oh and would you look at that, the sensor is loose, that's why your readings are all over the place.
Which I laughed at, there was no way that sensor was loose when I delivered the bike.
My AFR readings were smooth and on point, and with the sensor now loose you can hear the hole in the exhaust. No way I'm not noticing that before.

59510.jpg


Really there is something off about the guy. Just keeps finding ways to avoid tuning it.
I couldn't get a straight answer, and had to keep slowing him down to focus on clarifying his problem statements because I was getting blinded with all these problems being thrown at me in quick succession.

Another thing was he said was the AFR was up at like 16 at idle and all over the place... so he added 15% fuel at idle, and it didn't help, hence concluding the O2 sensor location not suitable.
I ran the bike to load it into the van, and my AFR gauge had idle at 11 AFR... it was 13.3 when I left it in...
I really don't understand what's going on with the guy, nothing makes sense.

I'll go fix the temporary coolant weep, do my research about O2 sensor location and bike operating temperature just to corner the guy with some facts to hand.
Who knows, maybe he's right and I'm wrong.

Meanwhile, can anyone spot what's wrong here with the dyno shop leader board;

59491.jpg
 
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this guy sounds like he is all mouth
meaning he talks a good game
if he does not want to work on your bike he should look you in the eye and say i do not want to work on your bike.
i would not want this guy near my bike.
 
this guy sounds like he is all mouth
meaning he talks a good game
if he does not want to work on your bike he should look you in the eye and say i do not want to work on your bike.
i would not want this guy near my bike.

Me either. But there are like 2 maybe 3 dynos in the Republic / within 3 hours from here.
One guy is supposed to be good but dyno is too short for a Rocket.
These guys are the other 'good' shop.
and there is talk of another but I can't find much info.
I'm thinking... UK would be good but far away.

Meanwhile re the new belt fraying. The only difference between old and new belt is the thickness. Old belt is fine. New belt busted. I think the new belt is rubbing the belt cover and this is the beginning of its downfall.
Gonna get a replacement and see where it might be touching the cover, and machine the cover to accommodate.
 
may be possible for the new belt to be vibrating/stretching causing it to be hitting some area that has enough clearance for the old belt. ?
i am thinking to approach the dyno like you want to rent it and then work with the main guy running it.
off topic i had a guy build me a dual stage 400 hp nitrous kit for my 383 chev mud bogger and he was all talk and we had to fix it at the shop that was a learning process.
 
The shop is unfortunately widely considered good, no bad regiews and my past experience was good... but sadly 99% of the business in this country is sport bikes with a new exhaust on it.

Like the factory map was 100% right (ignore trade offs for noise & emissions regs), you stick an aftermarket can on and the map is now 90%.
I get the impression they know how to adjust that map back to 100%.
That level of tuning...

The bike actually got put on the dyno for 13 miles and then it was taken down.

59563.jpg


After picking up the bike again and interrogating the boss/tuner guy, I'm really not convinced.
Apparently "the bike would not go below 91 degrees'.
I was like, why would it go below 91 degrees.. isn't 90-something not the normal operating temperature?
Apparently not.
Apparently normal bikes run 75 - 85°.....
I pointed out that the factory has rad fan come on at like 103°C (I.e. the likes of 99, 100° must be perfectly normal operating temp), his response was all bikes are like that.
OK...?
He insisted 95° was getting dangerously hot so he shut it down.
That conversation was going nowhere.


Re the big coolant leak, yes there was technically a "leak", and by leak i mean a drop fell every 5 secs for about 30 secs until the coolant warmed up a tad and then the weep stops.
There's a little weep out the bottom of the water pump, probably the o-ring or such.


And then the oxygen sensors.
The normal rod that gets dropped into one of the cans wouldnt work apparently because I have 2 cans and the significant pressure of the exhaust was upsetting it. Couldn't get a proper reading.
But I've had this bike and this exhaust on the dyno before, no problem then?
That was before it was supercharged.
Well, it was supercharged one of the times.
He states he's just not going to try tune a bike like this.

So I need to go drill a hole in my exhaust to weld in a bung to take a screw in O2 sensor, up at the collector.
There's already one there, the one my sensor is in.
Oh noes, that sensor is too far back, it's 4" down from the collector.
Oh and would you look at that, the sensor is loose, that's why your readings are all over the place.
Which I laughed at, there was no way that sensor was loose when I delivered the bike.
My AFR readings were smooth and on point, and with the sensor now loose you can hear the hole in the exhaust. No way I'm not noticing that before.

59510.jpg


Really there is something off about the guy. Just keeps finding ways to avoid tuning it.
I couldn't get a straight answer, and had to keep slowing him down to focus on clarifying his problem statements because I was getting blinded with all these problems being thrown at me in quick succession.

Another thing was he said was the AFR was up at like 16 at idle and all over the place... so he added 15% fuel at idle, and it didn't help, hence concluding the O2 sensor location not suitable.
I ran the bike to load it into the van, and my AFR gauge had idle at 11 AFR... it was 13.3 when I left it in...
I really don't understand what's going on with the guy, nothing makes sense.

I'll go fix the temporary coolant weep, do my research about O2 sensor location and bike operating temperature just to corner the guy with some facts to hand.
Who knows, maybe he's right and I'm wrong.

Meanwhile, can anyone spot what's wrong here with the dyno shop leader board;

59491.jpg
Sorry didn't have good results, seems like anyone can hang a sign and declare they're a tuner, and they get by on easy jobs but when they have to solve heavy tasks they are lost. Hopefully you can locate a real tuner, good luck with belt work, need to find the solution.
 
may be possible for the new belt to be vibrating/stretching causing it to be hitting some area that has enough clearance for the old belt. ?
i am thinking to approach the dyno like you want to rent it and then work with the main guy running it.
off topic i had a guy build me a dual stage 400 hp nitrous kit for my 383 chev mud bogger and he was all talk and we had to fix it at the shop that was a learning process.
Good idea, I've heard of some shops working that way, several years ago. Trust but verify.
 
Sorry didn't have good results, seems like anyone can hang a sign and declare they're a tuner, and they get by on easy jobs but when they have to solve heavy tasks they are lost. Hopefully you can locate a real tuner, good luck with belt work, need to find the solution.
Would be wonderful if you could hook up with Neville.
 
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