Can a Rocket III take down the establishment, and rule this island

[R-III-R Turbo]

Getting warm

 

[Sparky59]

Do i see cracks through the bolt holes on the plate on the right?

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

Yeap.. strange the way the inner hub with the factory spec 30mm long bolts is showing cracks, whereas the one which got upgraded to 50mm long ones (full length of the pressure plate spring towers) is fine.

I think it was warp who originally recommended this upgrade' possibly after his inner hub grenaded from lots of torques

 

[Claviger]

You probably know all these tricks, but here's my experience on the 1/4 with Mufasa. Super excited to see the video and your name on the top of the list

So the biggest challenge I had launching Mufasa was the torque curve, strangely. Last I was there, peak torque was arriving just over 4500 RPM, but was only 190hp/170lbft and was on the Avon Cobra rear. I used Gadson's throttling technique most of the time, if you're not familiar he's done a bunch of videos on it. Essentially what always happens was as soon as full clutch engagement was achieved it would light up the rear tire because the engine was in the giant island of max torque.

Personally, I stage with light rear brake pressure, friction zone on clutch, and pull my left leg up, release brake, and clutch/throttle simultaneously. The loading prior to launch lets you stack weight rearwards in staging and takes up all the driveline slack so you don't hammer the drivetrain. Delaying the left leg up is not an option, and won't be for you either because of how quickly 1st will go by.

It tried launching at various RPMs, from 2500 to 5000 and the result was always roughly the same, but the journey getting there differed:

1 - I tried rolling into throttle but not to 100% through 1st... spin 10.7 @ 137
2 - I tried getting clutch out early at about 50% throttle, then going full open... spin spin. 10.7 @ 137
3 - I tried progressive release so full throttle was reached right when full clutch engagement was reached... spin spin SPIN! 10.5 @ 135
4 - I tried short-shifting it at about the 60' mark into 2nd, no spin, same time/mph. 10.7 @ 137

My best run was achieved, counter-intuitively, using method 3, and just roast it through 1st, quick shift it to 2nd, and hold on...

Looking back there are a number of things that would've helped a TON:
Drop rear tire to 20-25psi (was running 36psi lol)
Drop front end by raising forks and strap it
Longer burnout, was only doing ~5 seconds, probably needed more like 15-20
Adjust rear shocks (soften compression, near max rebound damping) to slow the return forward of weight and adjust the length to 10mm under stock length
Lighter rear springs

 

[Ahika07]

So in southern Ireland, drag racing isn't a big thing. In fact there is only 1 motorcycle event on per year here that I know of, it's on in early April on a public road which is closed for the day.
(There are no drag strips here. Only other drag races I know of are cars that do it on an airport runway that closes for the day.)
Anyway 10 years ago this was the final - two turbo Hayabusas, and about 8.88sec time being as good as it gets overall.

Cut forward 10 years to 2022, and pretty much the same guy is still winning them, with 8.85 sec (he did an 8.77 irrc earlier on)

So in 10 years at least, they haven't got any faster really or had anyone else winning.
FYI track record is 8.6X sec iirc from a few years ago, top trap speeds around 180mph.


So watching it this year (April) I made the decision, time to bring the beast to these drag races next year.
If I combine my TTS stage 2 kit, Carpenter 240 kit, 2.5L Stroker kit, oh yes and some nice Lush Racing kit.... will it be enough to match a 700hp Busa, from a dig to a line 1320 feet away?
Maybe even beat it, and knock the guy off the top spot?

Will definitely put a cat amongst the pigeons, no doubt about that, well a big heavy cruiser amongst a sea of sport bikes anyway (see pic below).

Figure at the very least it will upset a few folk by embarrassing them on a daily driver big heavy cruiser that was rode in there that day (not trailered) with motor tax paid & displayed, license plate on, tank full of pump fuel, running everyday street tyres...

Reckon it can be done?

Doooooooo it!!!

 

[Gerald]

Yeap.. strange the way the inner hub with the factory spec 30mm long bolts is showing cracks, whereas the one which got upgraded to 50mm long ones (full length of the pressure plate spring towers) is fine.

I think it was warp who originally recommended this upgrade' possibly after his inner hub grenaded from lots of torques

That's what I remember, Warp was the first to post about using longer bolts. Keep moving forward with your efforts.

 

[Claviger]

I know shipping is prohibitive but I have some stuff that may help your efforts, OEM stuff is from an extra motor, in good shape. I know you have parts, but some things are becoming hard to source. Just message me if you want any of it.

Cams from Carp 265 kit
Carpenter Springs
10 Good Carpenter Ti retainers, 2 eroded from shim vibration
Good shape basket/pressure plate from an '07, about 5k miles on it in stock bike
Known good set of OEM coils/wires
Lush Tensioner
PC-V Ignition Module (add to PC-V for ignition cut QS instead of fuel cut)

Nearly full '07 engine I can pull from.

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

Delaying the left leg up is not an option, and won't be for you either because of how quickly 1st will go by.

I've a bit of practice to do yet, debating on which foot to have up while staging, the right so rear brake is covered for wheelie control, or left leg to be ready to shift.

Re the parts, thanks for offer, any pics of the retainers (good ones and worn ones) shim pockets?

 

[Claviger]

I'll have to find them, but I'll send pics when I do.

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

Spent a lot of time today filing piston rings to achieve gap spec, while keeping the ends dead square and flat.