Can a Rocket III take down the establishment, and rule this island

I don't think I'm explaining it very well and that is because I don't fully understand it myself.
As they say if you cannot explain it to a 5 year old then you don't really understand it yourself!
What doesn't help is the lag in reporting values to screen.



One reason why I still use Windows TuneECU over the Android, you have this lovely cell tracer thing that highlights the column and row in the tables that the ECU is referencing from for fuel or ignition, as the engine runs.
Where the column and row intersect, is the cell containing the value that the ECU is working off.

E.g. in this screenshot, the yellow outlined cell is the one.

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Based on MAP value (650hPa) and engine speed (1290 RPM) received, the ECU is taking 3452 x20 mg as the mass of air being inducted, and then via its invisible injector spec, is determining the pulse time to open the injector for, to achieve an air/fuel ratio of whatever is in the corresponding cell in the AFR table.

PCV has a similar feature, except it actually highlights the cell itself, which is better.

Anywho the above is with the 1 bar MAP sensor.
The red outlined cell is around where idle is, with the 2.5 bar MAP sensor.
So that is around where I must adjust the values in the cell until I get a nice air/fuel ratio at idle.
And just use L tables to fuel real small throttle positions like 0 - 3%.

If that don't work good (probably because there is not much room on the left side of that cell), I will have to work around it with good ol PCV.
I asked Alain for a special TuneECU turbo map that has up to 2500hPa in the L tables but he doesn't seem interested.

SOUNDS LIKE YOU ARE IN FOR A LOT OF WORK (SORry caps) do you have access to a good dyno and a good guy that knows turbos that could help you out.
 
From what I can see, the few bike dynos here are used to fuel mapping alright, but ignition I'm not so sure on.
There is not much in the way of serious performance tuning here.
Mostly remaps to suit new cans and that sort of thing.

I kind of want to do it myself so I can learn, and I know I'm careful and will take time.
Not sure I trust a dyno guy with it!
Want to tune myself and then bring it to a dyno, see how well I did.

Planning on retarding by 2° per lb of boost to begin with, and advance that a fraction of a degree at a time until I start getting knock. Then pear it back a few fractions and lock it down.
 
From what I can see, the few bike dynos here are used to fuel mapping alright, but ignition I'm not so sure on.
There is not much in the way of serious performance tuning here.
Mostly remaps to suit new cans and that sort of thing.

I kind of want to do it myself so I can learn, and I know I'm careful and will take time.
Not sure I trust a dyno guy with it!
Want to tune myself and then bring it to a dyno, see how well I did.

Planning on retarding by 2° per lb of boost to begin with, and advance that a fraction of a degree at a time until I start getting knock. Then pear it back a few fractions and lock it down.

a lot to be said about doing it yourself
sounds like you are the man to do it.
good luck
we are always interested in learning from a great guy.
 
From what I can see, the few bike dynos here are used to fuel mapping alright, but ignition I'm not so sure on.
There is not much in the way of serious performance tuning here.
Mostly remaps to suit new cans and that sort of thing.

I kind of want to do it myself so I can learn, and I know I'm careful and will take time.
Not sure I trust a dyno guy with it!
Want to tune myself and then bring it to a dyno, see how well I did.

Planning on retarding by 2° per lb of boost to begin with, and advance that a fraction of a degree at a time until I start getting knock. Then pear it back a few fractions and lock it down.
Agree with you wanting to make it work yourself and moving forward with small, slow steps. Believe you'll get there.
 
Think I'll book into the dyno for the end of February. That'll force me to have bike in good shape by then, and afterward bike will be fully tuned for sure.
That gives me about 6 weeks over March and early April to practice launching.

I'm quite comfortable with roll racing, so the launch is where I need to practice and learn fast.
Only ever launched a motorbike once in my life - the otherwise stock Rocket Stroker - and that was a 12.3 sec pass. So a good half second behind where it should be I reckon.

The races are on in mid April, but I hear the club is having insurance trouble so there is a shadow of doubt.
 
What tire are you planning on using? And given the fact that you can not extend the rear tire with a longer swing arm, have you given any thought of incorporating a wheelie bar to aid in the launch?
 
What tire are you planning on using? And given the fact that you can not extend the rear tire with a longer swing arm, have you given any thought of incorporating a wheelie bar to aid in the launch?

240/55 Bridgestone. No wheelie bar, strangley enough they are barely used by the others competing. The top bikes here don't use them. Am strongly considering adapting (or at least trying to) a 675's aftermarket traction and wheelie control system to the Rocket though

 
Meanwhile, after months of deliberation, I panicked and just dropped an obscene amount of money on a traction control kit that might not work.
Price here is not including VAT, shipping or the 2 ABS sensor interfaces needed to maximise the effectiveness of the system.
This is for a Triumph 675 2006 - 2012, the closest thing they have to a 2010 Rocket III Roadster.

The rear wheel has spun up at the top end of 3rd with "just" the Carpenter kit on a hot sunny day. I can only imagine what a bike with double the hp will do, particularly on a cold and probably damp April day. Think traction control is a necessity for not dying.

Going to take a big chance and try graft this onto the Rocket.

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