Broken heated grip again

[cr0ft]

I'm still surprised the Avons didn't give decent heat with the integrated Heat Demon setup. I've been looking at replacing my Triumph heated ones with that just because I still hate, hate, hate the giant black box controller...

 

[Joesmoe]

I cannot assert the Avons don't work, after seeing how poorly the electrical connections were made. Some of my hard-core engineering friends would have redone the electrical connections just to see. I didn't have the patience, and must have a setup that I can trust others not necessarily intimately familiar to touch.

And the controller box I have, FWIW, is chromed, as are the grip ends.

 

[ScottishR3T]

I'm very happy with my Avon set up.

They take a little longer to heat up but once they do they're great.

They look the part too.

 

[R3T-Too]

D@mn!
I joined the club today.

Thanks to all the members here for the great information.

Now if I could just siphon off a little more. .

Does anyone know where to get a set of stock grips also/or does anyone have a pair they'd like to sell?

Scott

 

[R3T-Too]

BTW; I don't think it's related to the heating factor.

My R3T had less than 3,000 miles on it and the heating elements haven't worked. I think the plastic is just weak.

 

[R3T-Too]

Well, I dug into and old box of parts and found a set of grips that worked! Just needed to dremel a little plastic off the end of the throttle tube and she's back in the game.
I guess I will be pulling the harness and controller off this weekend.

Scott

 

[cr0ft]

as are the grip ends

Since you have them I thought I'd ask - would it be possible to mount the Avons but leave the stock bar ends on? Or would that require some drastic modifications?

 

[Pete]

I cannot assert the Avons don't work, after seeing how poorly the electrical connections were made. Some of my hard-core engineering friends would have redone the electrical connections just to see. I didn't have the patience, and must have a setup that I can trust others not necessarily intimately familiar to touch.

And the controller box I have, FWIW, is chromed, as are the grip ends.

First off, Joesmoe
Apologise for digging up an old post.

I'm considering Oxford heated grips and I've been told that the standard rocket stator has a 55w output and will not keep up with the 4amp / 60w demand of the grips on a long trip given that in Aus we have headlight laws that require low beam connected at all times.

I've also been told that Triumph do have a 75w stator but this is not installed standard unless the bike comes with heated grips installed. I'de like to hear from anyone if this is correct ??

Have you had any issues with your battery since installing the grips ??

 

[Joesmoe]

I was fortunate enough to visit the Land of Oz once, and brought back my favorite expression, "No worries."

All queries are welcome here.

Short answer: I have not experienced any problem with the battery. I ride year round, and use the grips (on, and when I'm using the grips, typically, I'm also wearing a heated jacket and heated gloves), and again, no problems, so far.

That said, there have been suggestions to reduce the load and increase safety by replacing your H4s with LEDs. This is particularly true for the Roadsters with their dual headlights. There are a number of folks Down Under who have gone with cheaper Chinese versions and report -- if I may paraphrase -- so far so good.

So that alone should easily give you heated grips with margin. And in my case - it's the grips, plus jacket, plus gloves.

The stator difference is the first I've heard of this, and I'd ask @DEcosse or others for their input here.

Hope that helps, and good luck.

Will be interested in following what you do, and your experience.

 

[DEcosse]

I've been told that the standard rocket stator has a 55w output and will not keep up with the 4amp / 60w demand of the grips ... I've also been told that Triumph do have a 75w stator but this is not installed standard unless the bike comes with heated grips installed. ...

Those number are WAY off
The Standard, Roadster and Touring all use the same stator - this is rated to produce 37A at 2000 rom and 41A at 600rpm
37A is ~ 444W at a nominal '12V'
Sticking with current, a Standard or Roadster (with twin headlights) draws somewhere in the 16-18A range; a Touring model with the driving lamps on is going to be marginally more (or a bit less if they are off)
This is not accounting for 'momentary' loads such as Brake Light, Horn and Turn Signals - or indeed the cooling fan
But you can see there is a LOT of excess current available from the stator.... And 4A from heated grips puts a MINIMAL impact on that available capability.

I have not seen any reference to any 'high current' stator option but would be pleased to have info on this if indeed is the case.
If there is, it most certainly is not to cater for a heated grips load of 4A.

.... there have been suggestions to reduce the load and increase safety by replacing your H4s with LEDs. This is particularly true for the Roadsters with their dual headlights...
So that alone should easily give you heated grips with margin. And in my case - it's the grips, plus jacket, plus gloves....

We have to be careful in selecting some factors out of context: I myself have alluded to replacing lights with LEDs "to reduce load" but this is on CLASSICS (and NOT Roadsters) and the object is to reduce the current through the key-switch, nothing to do with the stator.
(I also made similar suggestion re Touring for same fundamental reason of the key-switch current although I also took pains to suggest I did not believe the current through was a problem on those models, however if someone wished to reduce that current, an LED was one good way to do so)
Not withstanding that in their own right, many of the currently available LEDs simply offer much better lighting.
But specifically to Roadsters, there is no real electrical advantage (or reliability improvement) in converting to LEDs - unless a user is really tapped out on that 37A limit with multiple accessory lights and two sets of full heated gear (rider plus passenger)

As far as reducing load to "make more available for accessories", that should not typically be necessary as illustrated above (but there may be exceptions).

Also important to note that reducing any load used by the bike does absolutely nothing to the current load on the stator, which is always at maximum with the OEM Shunt R/R; the R/R is already burning all that excess available power.
Nor however does a Series R/R give you any more power available for accessories - however it does greatly reduce the current generated by the stator, therefor influencing its reliability and longevity.