I believe one of our Aussie brothers already has this done, but not sure if on an ABS bike. I've been considering that also to remove the splitter.
Calling @Mittzy and @Ishrub is it one of you two?
Not me, I think.
Another useful accessory are auto bleed one way bleeder valves for our brake systems.

Speed Bleeder for Triumph Motorcycles $6.99 each - 4 for $27.96 at NewBonneville
Speed Bleeder for Triumph Motorcycles
speed_bleeder.jpg

sb8125l.jpg



I have a completely stock ABS Roadster system fitted but have a 6 piece ABS Roadster set of HEL braided stainless steel lines (5 front HBF8014, 1 rear HBR8014) with a steel crosspiece T fitting. I haven't checked manual or bike but would presume my HEL kit matches the Stock pattern.

I will not be fitting them for a while as I only had front rear and full ABS flush and refill in April 17.
 
Nope Not Me.....

Not me, I think.
Another useful accessory are auto bleed one way bleeder valves for our brake systems.

Speed Bleeder for Triumph Motorcycles $6.99 each - 4 for $27.96 at NewBonneville
Speed Bleeder for Triumph Motorcycles
speed_bleeder.jpg

sb8125l.jpg



I have a completely stock ABS Roadster system fitted but have a 6 piece ABS Roadster set of HEL braided stainless steel lines (5 front HBF8014, 1 rear HBR8014) with a steel crosspiece T fitting. I haven't checked manual or bike but would presume my HEL kit matches the Stock pattern.

I will not be fitting them for a while as I only had front rear and full ABS flush and refill in April 17.



Well good thing I didn't bet. I thought it was one of you.

I have the speed bleeders sitting on the bench with brake fluid, just waiting for me to move the brake line
 
I understand have you thought of brake lines with NO banjo bolts , a friend did a change with these NPT fittings he claim more brake fluid flows to the pad quicker and he got both front lines up to the master cylinder and no splitter . I intend to do this mod in the spring as well

Honestly I doubt it makes any difference at all. Have you thought about the REAL volumes required?. This is a pressure based hydraulic system - not a flow based system (like fuel) - Note that racing bikes use Q/D couplers which (believe me) are restrictive. They stop well enough.

My Guzzi has forged block fittings. I prefer the look - but makes no difference to braking over banjo lines.
BUT - if they are really good fittings they're expensive. Could well more than double the price of the lines. And if they're not they are not worth fitting.
Mine were made by a mate at Goodridge Aeroquip - he accidentally used forged fittings and forgot to add them to the bill. He also gave me a load of stuff to make my own lines - long since used up - and now (here) the lines need an MoT approved stamp so I would not do so for a road bike.

The dual line vs splitter argument.

I have dual lines on my R3 - It is without doubt easier to bleed a simple line - but was a bastard to route the left side line. And getting the banjo angles correct was a swine.

BUT double banjo bolts CAN be a sod to bleed if they decide not to cooperate. Easily as bad as a splitter.

If I were doing it again I would have a custom line made - by sending the old line to somewhere like Venhill and say make the top line "x" longer. REALLY.
 
Honestly I doubt it makes any difference at all. Have you thought about the REAL volumes required?. This is a pressure based hydraulic system - not a flow based system (like fuel) - Note that racing bikes use Q/D couplers which (believe me) are restrictive. They stop well enough.

My Guzzi has forged block fittings. I prefer the look - but makes no difference to braking over banjo lines.
BUT - if they are really good fittings they're expensive. Could well more than double the price of the lines. And if they're not they are not worth fitting.
Mine were made by a mate at Goodridge Aeroquip - he accidentally used forged fittings and forgot to add them to the bill. He also gave me a load of stuff to make my own lines - long since used up - and now (here) the lines need an MoT approved stamp so I would not do so for a road bike.

The dual line vs splitter argument.

I have dual lines on my R3 - It is without doubt easier to bleed a simple line - but was a bastard to route the left side line. And getting the banjo angles correct was a swine.

BUT double banjo bolts CAN be a sod to bleed if they decide not to cooperate. Easily as bad as a splitter.

If I were doing it again I would have a custom line made - by sending the old line to somewhere like Venhill and say make the top line "x" longer. REALLY.

I read this several time and now question the wisdom of all the travail versus the supposedly improvement maybe I will ask a few more questions to the man I also realize nobody want to admit to a lack of apparent improvement when money has been spent for it
 
Well good thing I didn't bet. I thought it was one of you.

I have the speed bleeders sitting on the bench with brake fluid, just waiting for me to move the brake line

So are your Speed Bleeders stainless or otherwise?

The Aussie HEL co. makes braided steel lines in any colour you want. I forgot to order Red but sort of like the default traditional clear over stainless braid.

This is the Roadster kit with ABS if you want a complete hose replacement kit like mine.
HEL BRAKE LINE KIT FOR TRIUMPH ROCKET III ROADSTER ABS (2011-2013) 6 HOSES | eBay
 
So are your Speed Bleeders stainless or otherwise?

The Aussie HEL co. makes braided steel lines in any colour you want. I forgot to order Red but sort of like the default traditional clear over stainless braid.

This is the Roadster kit with ABS if you want a complete hose replacement kit like mine.
HEL BRAKE LINE KIT FOR TRIUMPH ROCKET III ROADSTER ABS (2011-2013) 6 HOSES | eBay

I posted the link to those Hel lines earlier in the thread.

Here are the speed bleeders. Ball is SS, didn’t look at what the body is made of.

 
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