Bought a non runner in Vancouver

[Hammer]

I recharged the one that was in it. Been on the charger a while. I switch it to the 50amp engine start when I'm cranking then turn it down when not.

Just took the charger off. 12.7 volts and then drop to 10.2-10.6 when cranking. Charger on it does the same thing actually.

 

[BillB]

I recharged the one that was in it. Been on the charger a while. I switch it to the 50amp engine start when I'm cranking then turn it down when not.

Just took the charger off. 12.7 volts and then drop to 10.2-10.6 when cranking

If I remember correctly 10.2 is getting a bit close to the no spark zone. It is going to need a new battery before ya can ride it anyway. Might as well start there .

The reason that I would go that route is some times the output on those chargers is pretty 'dirty'. Lots of voltage spikes and a/c current overlay. It can confuse the stew out of the computer

 

[Hammer]

Makes sense. I hooked it up to my car. Measures 14.4v at the car, 12.8v at the bike and then drops to 9.6-10.2 while cranking off the car.

 

[BillB]

Makes sense. I hooked it up to my car. Measures 14.4v at the car, 12.8v at the bike and then drops to 9.6-10.2 while cranking off the car.

Just edited last post hammer

 

[cootertwo]

Another bad ignition switch

 

[Hammer]

K. I'll check that now.

Car has charged it up to over 14v. Getting 11.6 cranking now. 0.2 volts to one of the coils, doesn't change during cranking.

 

[BigNorm]

Keep on at it Hammer! You can do it!

 

[Hammer]

Switch looks good to me

 

[Hammer]

What do I need to look at as far as the kill switch goes?

The bike had spark. The ether got something going in the fuel system. The bike ran until I turned it off with the kill switch. Now no spark.

 

[cootertwo]

If it ran, but now it won't, I'd guess you have some kind of intermittent problem, and they can be the hardest to find.