Bleeding brakes

Hipporider

Supercharged
Joined
Sep 13, 2005
Messages
459
Location
Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
Ride
2005 Rocket 3, 2010 R3R
Well i bled front & rear brakes, with help from a mate, using the old tube immersed in jar of fluid.Rear brake works fine.Totally flushed the front brakes and rear ,yet the front lever still feels mushy and I can nearly pull the lever to the bar! Still brakes fine on the road ,I might add.

Any tricks needed??
 
Hippo - AIR.

OEM lines or after market? - that ruddy T-Piece is a PITA

Did you bleed upright or on sidestand? - it's really important that you final bleed with the lever end of the M/C assembly higher than the banjo-bolt end.

What Fluid? - it's by no means a show stopper assuming it was brand new fluid from a not previously opened sealed bottle/tin. But it's worth mentioning.

That or a worn seal ring on the M/C plunger. But that's something that only really wears if there's corrosion somewhere.

What did the OLD fluid look like?
 
Well thats interesting.I often notice that I get a feedback through the front lever as if one of the brake rotors is warped,which i thought it may be, without looking at it,but perhaps its the points where the discs float. I'll look into it.Thanks.

 
OEM lines.Cant see whats wrong with them.Why is the T piece a PITA?
Had bike on a stand with both wheels in the air but cant remember if I bled the brakes after I took it off as there was a bit going on in the shed at the time with the bike.Wiring bypass,fork springs,stebel horn installation.

I used brand new Dot 4 fluid.cant remember the brand,but i can check.

old Fluid look gunky! We flushed till it looked good and different colour as the new fluid was a different colour.
 
OEM lines.Cant see whats wrong with them.Why is the T piece a PITA?
old Fluid look gunky! We flushed till it looked good and different colour as the new fluid was a different colour.
T-Piece. I distrust lumps I cant see into.

The problem is that GUNKY means there may well be corrosion deposits in the lines - and I suspect that T-piece. Unless you can really FLUSH - High volume and speed - NOT pressure those deposits may well still be there and bubbles will stick to it.

I had a hydraulic clutch that gave me similar problems. Albeit on a Volvo.
 
Tie back the brake lever in the "brakes full on , lever to the bar" with a bungy cord & leave over night.This allows small bubbles to rise. The brake lever will ( when released) have some proper resistance after a couple of pumps. You will likely need to repeat this proceedure often.