Bevel Box Drain Plug

Finally pulled out the bevel box drain plug that I had broken a couple of years ago. I have been changing gear oil by pumping it out. It was a royal pita to get the broken plug out, wish I had looked at this thread again before I attempted it. What finally worked was jamming a flathead screwdriver I had modified into the bolt after tapping the magnet back aways. Lots of time on my back on the garage floor in 100 degree heat. I had already bought an OEM plug so I put that one in and gently gave 15 nm. Its not much force, no wonder so many break these plugs.

I also removed the rear brakes to inspect them because I could hear metal grinding when I applied the brake. The retainer bracket had come loose. What surprised me was when I took the bike for a ride it no longer has a front wheel wobble at 40 mph when I take my hands of the bars. I have had this problem for a couple of years and have retightened the front steering stem nut several times without any improvement. I was going to take it down to the dealer to see what they could do about it.

The only thing I can think of was the rear axle nut must not have been torqued tight enough and there was just enough play in the rear wheel to cause the front wheel to wobble at 40 mph.

I will admit I have guesstimated torque many times and gotten away with it, no more. Too much, too little, either way its bad juju.

I've got a good one for the group on this subject. I buggered the bevel box drain plug hole threads. I mis-remembered the torque setting at 25 NM and stripped the threads in the drain hole. The plug is just fine. So to "fix" it, I flushed the new oil out and re-filled again then put blue lock tite on it and lightly turned it in. It never realy got tight. Then I put a piece of duct tape over it so the plug can't fall out on the ground. So far no leaks.

I would like to make a permanant fix with out having to remove it from the bike. Any suggestions. (I know if a good solution is not found, it may ultimately have to go to the machine shop.)

Are you sure the threads are stripped? What happened to mine and others is the bolt head twisted off. For some people it just fell out, but for me it stayed with the bolt and would twist either way with very little force but would not come off. I had to jiggle it with pliers several minutes to finally get it to break off completely so I could get access to the bolt and tap the magnet back. Sort of like pulling a tooth.

I would bet your the threads are fine and the bolt head has twisted off but there is enough remaining metal to keep it very slightly attached to the bolt. Take a pair of needle nose pliers, or needle nosed vice grips and see if you can't jiggle the bolt head back and forth. That bolt seems way too weak to be capable of stripping the bevel box threads.

Why not just tap it out one size bigger?

you may be able to re tap it the same size

Just install a timesert and replace the old thread completely. Mush stronger and better sealing than aluminum threads.

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Just make sure to flush the unit completely with gasoline or diesel to remove any metallic debris afterwards.

here's a possible solution.

there looks to be plenty of metal so you could drill to the next larger size, and then using the proper loctite, red i think, the stuff that locks threads permanently, then using either a heli coil, or a brass bushing-threaded i.d. and o.d., you could use a different plug. one that's readily available. i'm leaning towards going to the harley shop and getting a drain plug with the magnet in it. transmission and engine both use a good drain plug that has a magnet in it. i'll update this reply when i get to work on changing my differential oil. hopefully i'll come up with a suitable solution. a replacement drain plug with a magnet would be best it seems. something that's readily available and not made out of unobtanium like triumph parts.

torque wrench, 11 ft lbs?

are you sure it's not 11 inch pounds instead of 11 ft lbs? i hate converting to newton meters, although i have both scales on most of my torque wrenches. i'll look in my service manual for torque specs and do the conversion.

2013 Rocket 3 touring - Filler Bolt Too Tight

I Just tried to inspect my gear oil for the first time. I read the manual and tried to loosen INSPECTION bolt head number 2 (pictured in Manual). This bolt appears to be torqued excessively and won't budge. Am I missing something?

HAS ANYBODY EVER HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM.

I finally took off my Left Hand Hard Luggage to get a better lever on the bolt. I used a foot long lever on the allen wrench and it finally popped loose. Inspected gear lube, OK. No problem once I got the proper moment angle on the bolt but Man, it was over torqued from the factory. Maybe this is why so many feel the need to over torque the drain bolt.

im about to change my diff oil,so i went to the stealer and it was an order only part and he had never ordered one before,he didnt even know it was magnetic.THE PRICE 14 BRITISH POUNDS.forget that !!