AutoSwitch garage door opener installation

[Art]

Any updates on this? I picked one of these up but haven't gotten around to installing it yet. My garage door opener has a very compact circuit board with a captive disc battery. Thinking I'll try to mount mine under the fly-screen and wire to the headlight high beam power. It would take a quick 4 pulls of the brights switch to activate, but I figure that's less annoying to the neighbors than double tapping the horn (especially with my after-market horn).

Further delay in project as custom turn signals, quick shifter, and Bluetooth module installed.

I did solder my garage remote to the AS7G switch. It functions perfectly, just like the instructions say, when the trigger wire is hit with momentary 12V.

Took off the fly screen hoping to see a nice cozy space for the small remote and an obviously labeled HIGH BEAM wire. Instead I see an intimidating wire harness. Lots of wires with pretty colors. Instructions say to probe wires with needle probe looking for your desired trigger. And small nick from probe in insulation wont be a problem. Eh. Not so sure about that.

Still hoping that someone will tell me exactly what color the wire for the high beam trigger is, or maybe I will open up the switch housing at the grip and look there.

 

[EskimoPie]

Still hoping that someone will tell me exactly what color the wire for the high beam trigger is, or maybe I will open up the switch housing at the grip and look there.

I don't think this is the switch wiring on the handlebar as it comes from the fuse box, but this should be the power going to the headlight itself. Looks to me like the high beam power line is Blue/Orange.

I wonder if the switch on the handlebar is actually a CAN BUS that may not be giving off 12V. Ideally I'd like to use the switch itself too (and use the long hold configuration) but we may be stuck with using the headlight power in which case we'd need to use the 2 short pulses.

 

[Zutt]

That is very nice mounting and an easy solution. But such a bike as this deserves a batmobile-like switch that allows you to open the bat cave without removing your hands from the grips methinks.

On another note, are those aftermarket turn signals, or euro-style? Mine were more ovoid than round, but I switched them for Wunderkind ones (causing further delay in this project).

Stock turn signal.

I'm sure batman can take his left hand off for a second as he's approaching his bat garage
I didn't want to cause more trouble trying to mess with the wiring.

 

[EskimoPie]

Well today was the day that I decided to tackle this project once and for all. It was a big success. I ended up wiring it to my headlight wiring harness. I used power and ground to the main headlights since that power is only on with the ignition and won't be a battery drain. For the trigger I used the high beam power. To do that you need to change the default trigger setting for the AutoSwitch. It's set at the factory to activate the garage door opener with a long (>2s) activation of 12V, but you can change that (instructions come with the AutoSwitch) to instead operate with two short pulses of 12V. So all I need to do is flick my high beams on and off twice quickly and the garage door operates. It's awesome and all fully hidden under the fly-screen.

The headlight wiring harness connector unfortunately is not only under the fly-screen, but under the plate below that as well. So here's my attempt at some step by step instructions, let me know if you need any clarifications.

1. Remove fly screen and set aside
2. Remove the 2 screws holding down the low frequency antenna on the left side under the fly screen. You need to do this to get to one of the 4 bolts that hold the wiring harness tray.
3. Lift out low frequency antenna and let it hang free (no need to disconnect it's connector)
4. Remove the 4 bolts holding the wiring tray (one in each corner)
5. Cut two zip ties at the top center and middle of the wiring tray. These hold a wiring harness underneath and it makes it hard to lift the wiring tray with those zip ties still attached.
6. Remove the two large connectors near the bottom of the wiring tray. from the tray itself. Be careful, the tabs that hold the connectors to the tray are very fragile. I actually broke the little tabs that attach the connectors to the tray on both.
7. Now you can lift the tray up enough to see the headlight harness connector. It's actually clipped to the underside of the wiring tray near the bottom. That clip was fairly easy to release by squeezing the tabs that poke through the tray with a needle nose pliers and it pushes right out.
8. Unplug the connector from the main bike harness to make access to the wires easier.
9. The wires you need are 12V low beam power (solid yellow), 12V high beam power (solid white), and ground (black).
10. I trimmed the harness sheath back a couple of inches to give me more room to work with the wires
11. I cut the wires, trimmed some insulation, put a piece of heat shrink tubing on, and then spliced in the AutoSwitch wires. The black AutoSwitch wire went to the black headlight harness ground wire. The red autoswitch power wire went to the yellow 12V low beam power wire. The yellow AutoSwitch trigger wire went to the white 12V high beam power wire. (I also trimmed off most of the extra wire length on the autoswitch wiring harness).
12. I re-connected the connector and tested it all out and it works perfectly!
13. Button everything back up in reverse order. I was able to fit my small garage door opener between the fly-screen and the wiring tray at the bottom. (I also cut off the LED after I verified everything was functioning since it was a VERY long wire and I wanted the stealth installation anyway).