Like I said, 'values' differ and not in a strictly monetary sense.
But hey, I am PNG born, then Brisbane, Naracoorte, Adelaide, the world, Darwin, then Canberra person but my only land or property is in the NT still. Your current location or residence does not define a person.

Besides plenty of rich people in Adelaide and poor ones in Canberra like everywhere else. Character judgements based on Dark side 'discussions' are not advisable as it always exposes strong views usually opposing and usually unaligned to any other personality, WEALTH or character trait.

There you go Ishrub, Im not Australian but I second that!

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MC tires have to do so much more than CTs.
They have to deal with, not only forward, rearward and lateral forces, but with large constant changes in those force directions from various lean angles.
CTs do not lean and their sidewalls are soft in comparison to MC tires.
Power to weight acceleration and deceleration forces are also much greater on a MC tire and especially further exacerbated in that there is just the single rear tire.
I believe there is way more science and manufacturing expense involved in MC tires.
I would bet that without the MC factories that support racing and tire development, our MC tires would cost a lot more.
Just sayin' . . .
 
MC tires have to do so much more than CTs.
They have to deal with, not only forward, rearward and lateral forces, but with large constant changes in those force directions from various lean angles.
CTs do not lean and their sidewalls are soft in comparison to MC tires.
Power to weight acceleration and deceleration forces are also much greater on a MC tire and especially further exacerbated in that there is just the single rear tire.
I believe there is way more science and manufacturing expense involved in MC tires.
I would bet that without the MC factories that support racing and tire development, our MC tires would cost a lot more.
Just sayin' . . .

Maestro... how differently will the bike feel if I go back to stock risers instead of the Rivcos that came with the bike? It would seem to me that leaning forward 2 inches will improve my position while negotiating a turn.
 
Maestro... how differently will the bike feel if I go back to stock risers instead of the Rivcos that came with the bike? It would seem to me that leaning forward 2 inches will improve my position while negotiating a turn.

Ricardo,
You be correctamundo.
Also you'll be able to lift your tank tank without issue. Comfort is primo, so if this places too much lean pressure on your dainty wrists, you might consider finding some bars with more pullback. Something in the 12" or more range.
 
Ricardo,
You be correctamundo.
Also you'll be able to lift your tank tank without issue. Comfort is primo, so if this places too much lean pressure on your dainty wrists, you might consider finding some bars with more pullback. Something in the 12" or more range.

I found a cheapo set. Seems like they are easy to fit without removing the top triple clamp. The Rivco chrome is peeling off. Once they are off Ill post some pics to see if they can be painted chrome or need re-chroming or something.
 
I found a cheapo set. Seems like they are easy to fit without removing the top triple clamp. The Rivco chrome is peeling off. Once they are off Ill post some pics to see if they can be painted chrome or need re-chroming or something.

Cable question; Getting ready to revert back to stock risers. Can the clutch cable can disconnected at the handlebars to re-route? No complications with that? How about the right side. Looks like brake line needs to re moved. Are the throttle cables ezzy to disconnect and connect from the throttle tube?
 
Cable question; Getting ready to revert back to stock risers. Can the clutch cable can disconnected at the handlebars to re-route? No complications with that? How about the right side. Looks like brake line needs to re moved. Are the throttle cables ezzy to disconnect and connect from the throttle tube?

The clutch cable is easy to remove at the lever. First screw the barrel adjuster all the way in at the clutch to add slack into the cable. Line up the cut out in it with the opening in the clutch perch and pull the cable around. Just watch the little red or white plastic piece that the cable stopper has in the lever hole when trying to pull the stopper out of the lever. That helps to reduce the friction and is easy to break, rip apart, or snag. I use a pick to turn it to help with removal.

For the throttle cables you can remove them easy enough from the throttle grip, but again be careful and take your time. You will have to screw in the barrel adjusters for both the push and pull cables to add slack.
 
The clutch cable is easy to remove at the lever. First screw the barrel adjuster all the way in at the clutch to add slack into the cable. Line up the cut out in it with the opening in the clutch perch and pull the cable around. Just watch the little red or white plastic piece that the cable stopper has in the lever hole when trying to pull the stopper out of the lever. That helps to reduce the friction and is easy to break, rip apart, or snag. I use a pick to turn it to help with removal.

For the throttle cables you can remove them easy enough from the throttle grip, but again be careful and take your time. You will have to screw in the barrel adjusters for both the push and pull cables to add slack.

There is no problem with the little arm that goes into the block loosing all it's tension?
 
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