Another TPS Question

[Gregger]

One other point I want to bring up, I recently purchased a new laptop with Windows 10. Installed TuneECU. With my old laptop I had to go through a convoluted process to get the FTDI drivers in place for the cable, in order to read the ECM. With Windows 10, I plugged in the cable and let everything happen on it's own. Basically plug and play. The only thing I had to do is under "Options/Interface" choose USB instead of Serial. Much easier than with the previous versions of Windows.

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

Back home now, I noticed something while checking the TPS. With TuneECU hooked up, I initiated "Adjust ISCV" and got .60 volts. Nothing to adjust here. I then double clicked for the second test and initially got .72 volts but after a few seconds it dropped to .66 then to .60 and then climbed back to .72 and stayed there. Did this a couple of times whenever I initiated the "Adjust ISCV" function.

Is this normal? Once it does the weird dance, it settles down and doesn't change at .72. I then clicked for the final 15 second part of the reset where it tells you not to touch anything.

Thinking this wasn't normal, I replaced the TPS with the new one I had and got the same weird dance on the .72 volt test whereby it initially goes to .72, then cycles down through .66, then to .60 and back up to .72.

I have checked all the historic TPS threads and haven't read of anyone getting this particular condition. Is this normal???

I'll test the bike again later to see if I still have the hunting condition on startup. Still can't drive here so I can't test for a stalling condition at intersections. I did have some gasoline in the old TPS which might have cause a problem with it????

Pretty sure that dance is normal, here is a video clip of mine.
(It's set at 0.56v and 0.68v, but don't worry the bike idles perfectly, smooth and strong, catches idle at stops never stalls or bogs - throttle % 0-96%)

 

[Gregger]

Well thank you very much! That is exactly what mine is doing. Wasn't sure it was normal until you posted this. I learned something today. Much appreciated.

Oh, I've started the bike several mornings now at cold temps and it fires right up and is rock steady idling. No more hunting issues.

 

[sleeves]

Well thank you very much! That is exactly what mine is doing. Wasn't sure it was normal until you posted this. I learned something today. Much appreciated.

Oh, I've started the bike several mornings now at cold temps and it fires right up and is rock steady idling. No more hunting issues.

Just something to check on the mechanical side is the MAP sensor hoses just in case they have cracked.

 

[1K9]

Just something to check on the mechanical side is the MAP sensor hoses just in case they have cracked.

Ask the Scott n exile what happens when the bike does not see a good MAP signal.

 

[Gregger]

Well fellows I thought I'd give an update. Have run for a few weeks now and there are no more issues with hunting or erratic idle conditions. Looks like the tps was buggered in the idle position. Engine is running great.

I also took the time to replace the Valve Cover gasket that was only a year old (seems the new ones are crap), replaced plugs, installed a new Yuasa YTX20HL-BS battery and also replaced my rear wheel bearings again but with ones recommended by @Claviger (Natchi C3). Torqued the wheel to 81 ft/lbs and after a few hundred kilometers no noises. Bike's never ran better....

 

[Journeyman]

...... and also replaced my rear wheel bearings again but with ones recommended by @Claviger (Natchi C3). Torqued the wheel to 81 ft/lbs and after a few hundred kilometers no noises. Bike's never ran better....

Glad you got the idle issue sorted out. There have been many posts on bearing issues, especially in the rear wheel. I've replace mine a couple of times, but now accept that on the rear at least one side will feel tight (it shouldn't). I must have missed @Claviger bearing recommendation and will make a note of it- I'm sure that most of us use ALL BALLS. I've also reduced the torque rating on the rear axle, but bearings still tight when I check again in 4.5K miles, my current rear tire life. Another member mentioned taking a thousandth or so off the spacer tube and claimed that worked and I'm considering trying that. I'm all ears about this bearing issue. Let us know if yours are tight next time your remove your wheel.

 

[Gregger]

Glad you got the idle issue sorted out. There have been many posts on bearing issues, especially in the rear wheel. I've replace mine a couple of times, but now accept that on the rear at least one side will feel tight (it shouldn't). I must have missed @Claviger bearing recommendation and will make a note of it- I'm sure that most of us use ALL BALLS. I've also reduced the torque rating on the rear axle, but bearings still tight when I check again in 4.5K miles, my current rear tire life. Another member mentioned taking a thousandth or so off the spacer tube and claimed that worked and I'm considering trying that. I'm all ears about this bearing issue. Let us know if yours are tight next time your remove your wheel.

Check this thread, post #43 for my latest comments on the rear wheel bearings. Hello! New to the forum - looking for R3 advice