I don't understand why Triumph have this valve adjustment when most other manufacturers don't need it. My old '11 R3R has 160000km on it and I have only done them twice. Both times there was a small adjustment, but there was no rattle. The last at 90000km and still running sweet as a clock.
My wife had 2 Thunderbird Storms and neither of them were done at 60000. My theory is, if they are not rattling, leave 'em
 
I don't understand why Triumph have this valve adjustment when most other manufacturers don't need it. My old '11 R3R has 160000km on it and I have only done them twice. Both times there was a small adjustment, but there was no rattle. The last at 90000km and still running sweet as a clock.
My wife had 2 Thunderbird Storms and neither of them were done at 60000. My theory is, if they are not rattling, leave 'em
I'm almost at 29K on my '14 (too many depolyments caused not enough riding time...) and I"ve been wondering. No strange sounds and she's running as strong as ever. My plan was 30K miles... Hmmmm....
-MIG
 
I would wait to do this adjustment when signs indicated it was needed. My mechanic says very rarely do they need adjustment even with 60k miles on them. The only reason I took it in was because I thought I heard more noise in the motor and once or twice it didnt start instantly.
 
Just for anyone interested, I just had the second valve adjustment done on my 2020 GT with almost 60,000 miles on it. There has yet to be one valve not in spec. Might save you some money.
Thank you!!!
 
It's a ****ed if you do, ****ed if you don't kinda situation.
It sucks to spend a lot of time or money checking a tolerance, only to find that it is in spec.
Equally, it sucks to not do the job and find later that damage has been caused due to Mal adjustment.
If valves are out of adjustment, you can start to see I'll effects on the efficiency and longevity of your motor.
Exhaust valves that don't completely close, don't dissipate heat through the valve seat to head transfer and thus can overheat and burn. Expensive.
Having said this, I must admit that it is a job that I have skipped, more than once, due to the increased complexity of modern valve trains.
Lock nut and grub screw adjustable rockers are very simple and easy. Bucket over shim, not so simple.
Variable valve timing adds another level of complexity, again.
 
Wo
It's a ****ed if you do, ****ed if you don't kinda situation.
It sucks to spend a lot of time or money checking a tolerance, only to find that it is in spec.
Equally, it sucks to not do the job and find later that damage has been caused due to Mal adjustment.
If valves are out of adjustment, you can start to see I'll effects on the efficiency and longevity of your motor.
Exhaust valves that don't completely close, don't dissipate heat through the valve seat to head transfer and thus can overheat and burn. Expensive.
Having said this, I must admit that it is a job that I have skipped, more than once, due to the increased complexity of modern valve trains.
Lock nut and grub screw adjustable rockers are very simple and easy. Bucket over shim, not so simple.
Variable valve timing adds another level of complexity, again.
Wow! This mod bot is a prude.
 
I've done many on the '11 Roadster. They do come out of spec. I'm about to hit 20K, so it looks like it's in my future. I think the 2.5s call for several special tools that are needed if you do need to replace a shim.
 
I've done many on the '11 Roadster. They do come out of spec. I'm about to hit 20K, so it looks like it's in my future. I think the 2.5s call for several special tools that are needed if you do need to replace a shim.
here are the special tools you need for "" Valve Clearance Adjustment "" and ""Camshaft Timing Check Adjust "" , I researched before hand and gathered information in case I ever decide to do this
Crankshaft Locking Pin, Part Number: T3880501 50usd

Camshaft Timing Bar,
Part Number: T3880502 60 usd

Torque Limiter
, Part Number: T3880609 255usd 0.6nm or 5 inch/ lbs
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now, the Torque limiter is the costliest tool from triumph 260usd, but there is an alternate which is this one
$54.99


( do not get those cheap variable torque screw drivers from amazon they are not good at all for such a small torque. Must get a fixed torque tool like above )

Alternate for remaining 2 tools are :-
Crankshaft locking pin: substitute an ordinary Phillips screwdriver ( I think that it is 8mm in diameter)

Crankshaft timing bar: substitute a 7mm hex wrench with the end cut off (cut the bend off)

Here is the link for the shim kit we need for triumphs

 
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