Rocket 3 Roadster Possibly Overheating?

TURBO200R4 said:
i always suspect the worst
if some one has been messing with the bike they may have the fan wiring wires ass backwards meaning the fan is blowing instead of sucking
this is a long shot but it pays to take a minute to check
also i have seen several vehicles come into my shop with the fan on backwards
Click to expand...
This isnt the case, issue started way before, unless the fan turn itself backwards overnight lol
 
buddazero said:
This also confirms I believe that it’s not all in my head and my bike is overheating because coolant is escaping and it’s already dropped below the min level.

I was already told about the process of bleeding and burping out the air, but it requires me to get extra coolant which I’m gonna get from the [Triumph] dealership and then I’m going to have to burp this bike myself because the **** dealer mechanic lied to me.

It’s high time I work on my own bike, I just feel stupid thinking that the mechanic at the dealer was I guess honorable lol

I need my bike to sit properly upright, I used to have a brick on the kickstand, but what’s a good stand for my rocket three that I can purchase?
Click to expand...
You can always get a hydraulic bike jack to get it upright. The manual recommends that before starting to fill the coolant system you crack open the bleed valve. This gives air a place to go as the system fills. It's likely the tech failed to do this, and the system has air trapped you can't get out until you open that bleed screw. Also, a leaking rad cap should be replaced, part number is T2100069.

Once you have the bike level (and stable) open the rad cap and then crack open the bleed screw (bolt) (located above the thermostat housing). Once you start adding coolant when full it will come out of the bleed screw vent hole. Tighten the bleed screw to 10 Nm. Top up the radiator and install the pressure (rad) cap. Then start the bike and allow to run until you see the expansion tank level rising. Shut off the motor and cool down to ambient. Check rad level when cool and top up if required. You should be golden, unless your thermostat or water pump isn't working.
 
TURBO200R4 said:
i know i am repeating
to my understanding there is an air pocket that traps air and the only way to get it out is to loosen that bolt till the liquid comes out.
of coarse everything needs to be full before you bleed the system.
now i never studied on this it was just to easy to bleed the system then go riding,
so the question of whether you can get the air out of that pocket with out loosening the bolt is i don't know.
Click to expand...
I fill system to max, radiator, overflow bottle, while bike is running and tilted hard right, looks very stupid, but radiatior fill is way above cylinder head and it takes almost the whole gallon, then i put over on kickstand, cut off, and the overflow pukes out excess. I used to bleed, i think i like this way better.
 
atomsplitter said:
You can always get a hydraulic bike jack to get it upright. The manual recommends that before starting to fill the coolant system you crack open the bleed valve. This gives air a place to go as the system fills. It's likely the tech failed to do this, and the system has air trapped you can't get out until you open that bleed screw. Also, a leaking rad cap should be replaced, part number is T2100069.
Motorcycles
Bikes
Motorcycles

Once you have the bike level (and stable) open the rad cap and then crack open the bleed screw (bolt) (located above the thermostat housing). Once you start adding coolant when full it will come out of the bleed screw vent hole. Tighten the bleed screw to 10 Nm. Top up the radiator and install the pressure (rad) cap. Then start the bike and allow to run until you see the expansion tank level rising. Shut off the motor and cool down to ambient. Check rad level when cool and top up if required. You should be golden, unless your thermostat or water pump isn't working.
Click to expand...
Yes, someone responded with the same procedure earlier. Thank you for the part number, I'll be ordering it as well as the proper coolant. I have an old bike lift but if you have specific recommendations for a lift that would be great, although I don't think it's necessary, I may just put a piece of wood on the kick stand.

I have the manual and will take a look, but just to clear up a few things:

1) Expansion Tank is the plastic tank underneath he Bear Claw, that has the Min/Max markings correct?

2) Rad Cap is also referred to as the Pressure Cap, Yes? This Cap has a locking screw, and obviously I need to undo it to get it off.

3) Both Bleed screw and pressure cap need to be off completely. Taking off the bleed "blot" is the process of bleeding that helps air escape.

4) With Cap and bolt still off, I lean the bike left and right to help air escape.

5) I then I fill the expansion tank with coolant, when coolant comes out of bleed screw, I put the bleed screw back on, as well as the Rad Cap.

6) Someone said to repeat this process until satisfied, why?

7) Call me stupid, but a local guy here mentioned that after I do this, I turn the bike on, and rev the bike a couple of times to "burp" it, is this true?
 
R-III-R Turbo said:
If the cooling system worked ok before but then not so good, and was due to trapped air, the only way i can see it getting into the system (aside from someone opening the system and not bleeding it properly after) is if the expansion bottle ran dry (say from a faulty rad cap allowing coolant to be pushed out) and air got sucked in.
Radiator caps going faulty is not unheard of on Rocket IIIs.
Click to expand...

Looks like this might be the problem here so.

The air temp and coolant temp are good. Seems like air got into system as above.

You don't have to take the bleed bolt out altogether, just loosen it maybe 3/4 of the way out until coolant starts to run out.
Then tighten up.
Bike leaned over to the right.
Drain expansion bottle.
Remove rad cap.
Top up coolant there.
Lean bike left and right a couple times.
Top up if needed (coolant should be right up to the lip inside the bottom of the filler neck)
NEW RAD CAP BACK ON
Fill up expansion bottle to the max mark

Re running the bike - after the above, take the bike for a spin so it gets up to temp and coolant is circulating fully.
Loosen the bleed bolt again until coolant comes out just to verify no more air has congregate there.
 
R-III-R Turbo said:
Looks like this might be the problem here so.

The air temp and coolant temp are good. Seems like air got into system as above.

You don't have to take the bleed bolt out altogether, just loosen it maybe 3/4 of the way out until coolant starts to run out.
Then tighten up.
Bike leaned over to the right.
Drain expansion bottle.
Remove rad cap.
Top up coolant there.
Lean bike left and right a couple times.
Top up if needed (coolant should be right up to the lip inside the bottom of the filler neck)
NEW RAD CAP BACK ON
Fill up expansion bottle to the max mark

Re running the bike - after the above, take the bike for a spin so it gets up to temp and coolant is circulating fully.
Loosen the bleed bolt again until coolant comes out just to verify no more air has congregate there.
Click to expand...
Drain the whole bottle?
How do I drain it exactly?

They put coolant in the expansion tank, but I guess I have to drain the whole thing. Once I loosen the bleed bolt what should I expect? Also I should do this with the bike, not on for a few hours, right?
 
Drain it by disconnecting the hose out the bottom of it, from the side of the filler neck, just under the rad cap.
You could also just unbolt the expansion bottle and leave it hang upside down.
You're just trying to prevent what's in the bottle running out when you remove the rad cap.

If you remove the bleed screw completely, coolant will piss out the hole. So you just need to loosen the bolt about halfway to 3/4. It's about 15mm to 20mm long iirc. Do it slowly and if there is air in there you will hear a slight hiss then followed by liquid.
If there is no air there then it will be just liquid dripping out from around the bolt.
Bike can be hot or cold to do this but less chance of a burn if cooled down.
 
buddazero said:
Yes, someone responded with the same procedure earlier. Thank you for the part number, I'll be ordering it as well as the proper coolant. I have an old bike lift but if you have specific recommendations for a lift that would be great, although I don't think it's necessary, I may just put a piece of wood on the kick stand.

I have the manual and will take a look, but just to clear up a few things:

1) Expansion Tank is the plastic tank underneath he Bear Claw, that has the Min/Max markings correct? YES, the hose from the radiator goes to the expansion tank bottle, so just trace where that rubber hose goes to and you found the tank.

2) Rad Cap is also referred to as the Pressure Cap, Yes? This Cap has a locking screw, and obviously I need to undo it to get it off. YES, the screw has to be removed to open the cap.

3) Both Bleed screw and pressure cap need to be off completely. Taking off the bleed "blot" is the process of bleeding that helps air escape. No, the bleed screw needs to be loose only, air will escape around the threads as you fill the system. The key is to fill slowly to allow time for the air to escape. The rad cap has to be removed to add coolant.

4) With Cap and bolt still off, I lean the bike left and right to help air escape. If the bike is level that should be unnecessary as the system fills bottom to top. The filler neck on the radiator is the high point, and coolant will weep out of the bleed screw before you get to that level. When that occurs (bleed screw dripping), the engine is full and only the radiator is left to fill. Tighten the bleed screw to 10 Nm and then continue filling radiator.

5) I then I fill the expansion tank with coolant, when coolant comes out of bleed screw, I put the bleed screw back on, as well as the Rad Cap. No, the bleed screw should be closed and torqued at this point. The expansion tank can be filled last after the engine cooling system has been filled and vented.

6) Someone said to repeat this process until satisfied, why? Should not be necessary, however it is prudent after running the engine and cool down to verify the system is still full by checking the level in the radiator.

7) Call me stupid, but a local guy here mentioned that after I do this, I turn the bike on, and rev the bike a couple of times to "burp" it, is this true? Revving the motor will spin the water pump faster increasing pump discharge pressure against the thermostat. It's not necessary if you allow the engine to heat up the thermostat will open and flow in the system will increase without the need to spin the water pump any faster. It will not hurt anything if you want to do it, but for maximum effect wait until the cooling fan is running and then rev the motor. That will provide greater flow throughout the system moving any trapped air since the thermostat is fully open. It doesn't hurt anything to do it earlier if you want to either.
Click to expand...
 
Everyone here is a God send. I’ve learned more about my bike these past few days then I ever had in 9 years since I’ve been riding her. If you’re ever in NYC and feel like salsa dancing, I run a salsa class and dance party, message me and you’ll be my guests lol

Just a few more questions and I’m set:

1) The coolant that’s in the expansion tank now. It has to be emptied before hand so that coolant doesn’t come out of the filler sprout or something like that? Can you clarify, I just want to note this down for me any anyone who comes along this thread.

2) With bleed screw partial open, and Rad Cap off, I pour the coolant in the radiator and NOT the expansion tank, correct? Because where the Rad Cap is, is the highest point in the coolant system, and as I’m pouring coolant, air will seep out of the bleed bolt, and fill the expansion tank.

3) I stop pouring in coolant when radiator is filled, and then afterwards I fill the expansion tank? I guess I’ll visually see the radiator filled when it’s at the brim I’m guessing.

And to clarify, I am getting a new Rad Cap, and proper triumph coolant.
 
Last edited:

Similar threads

GreyGhost2277
    • Like
2025 Rocket 3 GT Storm connectors
Replies
6
Views
205
GreyGhost2277
GreyGhost2277
    • Like
2005 Rocket 3 front wheel spacers
Replies
7
Views
471
Kevin frazier
Kevin frazier
Fastmike
    • Like
Rocket 3 Storm R 2025/2026 Lithium battery?
Replies
6
Views
708
Kevin frazier
Kevin frazier
NYMadMan
2011 Rocket 3 Roadster Decel Intake Pop (Stock)
Replies
2
Views
548
NYMadMan
NYMadMan
Fastmike
Rocket 3 Storm R - how to check oil level?
3 4 5
Replies
40
Views
3K
GTAgAu
GTAgAu
Back
Top