Sorry didn't see you had the newer model. I'm still living in the past.
Rebuilding motorcycle after timing chain skip 62K Km
- Thread starter Claudiu
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Claudiu
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- Rocket 3 GT
Thanks for sharing, I learned something new too. English is not my first language, my intention to show confidence and awareness ended up with a different nuance in writing. But sharing information and images will speak better for us.
Journeyman
"And this one is just right" ~ Goldilocks
IF (?) it IS possible to go from underneath that would be the easy way, for certain. As far as a shop, what you see in the photos is a 10 x 12 shed with just a small area of that devoted to the bike. I did have support running to the ceiling- the janky looking jack stands were not all. Without overhead support I would just make sure you setup a fail safe support system with enough room for you to work from below. @warp9.9 advised me on how to go in from underneath (thanks, again, Warp) and Neville Lush said there was no need to replace those liners, which would have been a whole 'nother can of worms
Claudiu
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I will use a three segments aluminium ladder as overhead crane. Bu I only need it to lower the frame. For installing the barrel block I plan to use piston ring compression tool - the one with thin band with pliers, not the tall/thick one - and I lower the block, one piston at the time, using the old bolts as guides. Same method as for CB750 or Hayabusa in the links from previous post. There are no liners or separate barrels to dislodge on this engine, which makes everything easier. I am a little concerned about the lower barrel cuts, I hope the piston rights will pass smoothly.
Here you have the barrel block in its splendor R3 barrels
Kevin frazier
Widowmaker!
Thats what keeps u rolling 90mph down the highway still
live in the past! Got it!
Journeyman
"And this one is just right" ~ Goldilocks
Oh...... I see now. Not at all like the 2.3s Looks like in and out only from the top. Keep us posted on your progress.
Claudiu
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Coming back with better pictures of the barrel block from an ebay sale. I didn’t dismantle mine yet but I have an idea how to insert the pistons from the bottom. I need to build sleeves matching the scallops and for that I need teflon tube or sheet, some collars and some vise or curved pliers. Meantime the gasket kit arrived. So many gaskets, orings, tenths of items!
Ebay barrel block R3
I didn’t decide yet if I want to try pulling only one piston out and twist and replace the bottom gasket diagonally or it’s better to pull all pistons and don’t twist anything.
Barrels seem to need a good cleaning on the bottom end, where the pistons don’t reach and there’s sludge which rings can catch.
Ebay barrel block R3
I didn’t decide yet if I want to try pulling only one piston out and twist and replace the bottom gasket diagonally or it’s better to pull all pistons and don’t twist anything.
Barrels seem to need a good cleaning on the bottom end, where the pistons don’t reach and there’s sludge which rings can catch.
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I've got a 05 Rocket III 2300, and I bought a ring compressor that's sized to correct bore and you simply push piston assembly in from top of bore. Simple and effective tool.
Claudiu
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On Rocket 3 it’s complicated. It seems you need to remove the sump at least to disconnect the conrods that means to levitate the engine. You cannot remove the cylinder head without tearing down the bike because the engine is stress member. Some of the bolts connecting the frame to the engine go through cylinder head, some go through crankcase. Then both cylinder head and barrels block are fixed on the same bolts going through both blocks into crankcase. The crankcase is made from two horizontal halves. Without a special jig to rotate the engine in the air you cannot work on both sides… It seems the one who designed the bike thought you need to explode it for a rebuild… or it was built to never be repaired. There’s absolutely nothing you can keep in one piece. You need to tear down the frame and transmission if you want to work on the engine.
I will use a similar tool as the one you describe but it should be made in two halves and with slopes on each side. And I will lower the barrel block over the pistons.
First two pictures are Rocket III. You have liners and you can work on connecting rods. The next ones are Rocket 3. The sandwich is: lower case, upper case, cylinder block and head on top. The cast of the lower half crankcase doesn’t have good access to conrods. You build the stack and everything stays together using the same long bolts.
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I haven't seen the Rocket 3 dis-assembled but your picture makes me wonder why you couldn't hold cylinders in place with a couple bolts and washers and remove pistons and rods out the top. Unbolting rods thru openings after removing bottom pan cover. But again, I've never seen this engine up close. Enjoy your project.
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