Gears not engaging, after being rough with the gear shifter.

TURBO200R4 said:
never happened to me but do not like thinking about a rocket transmission tearing up.
i think most buy a used engine or another bike to get the parts
good luck on what you find wrong.
Click to expand...
agree with you 100%, I am silently crying looking for the parts, a engine stand and a garage, only because I went like viking to the pedal shifter :)

I mean, a great way to learn for sure.

thanks man, I will keep you updated
 
R-III-R Turbo said:
Might be the infamous gear change actuator bolt, that the Triumph factory tech put the threadloc on the wrong end of, after loosening
Click to expand...
Can I ask what’s the best way/place to buy the gears, and what else I’ll need for the job? I’ve tools (torque wrench and others) and a working brain, but I don’t have an engine table or a garage.
 
leocohete said:
Can I ask what’s the best way/place to buy the gears, and what else I’ll need for the job? I’ve tools (torque wrench and others) and a working brain, but I don’t have an engine table or a garage.
Click to expand...
I don't recommend you take the motor into the living room. First I'd ask your friends if they have some garage space you can use. Since you're going to have to pull the motor you might see if anyone has fabricated an engine stand and see what that entails (I noted in the video the engine case was in a wood frame). Before you buy stuff you may not need, first disassemble and find the root cause of the shifting problem. Then carefully inspect the rest and replace anything worn and broken AFTER you know what's needing fixed. You could be buying gears and parts when the only thing needs done is torquing a bolt and adding a daub of loctite when you get in there.
 
A copy of the manual (downloadable from here) will tell you most of what you need to know, it has sections on engine removal and transmission disassembly & reassembly.
Based on your updates since and that it's a 2014, there is indeed also a strong probability of circlip dislocation and subsequent associated damage.
Even if the actuator bolt isn't the problem this time, it needs to be addressed while in there. Have seen it cause a shifter jam too besides the floppiness symptom which is most common.

As above best open it up and find out what the issue is first. But in any case you'll need a couple gaskets (RTV silicone from local auto parts shop will do all but the sump gasket may be best get the Triumph paper gasket) and a set of crankcase bolts. You can reuse the main bearing bolts. Will need a rotor brace and flywheel removal bolt, can give you dims if you're alright making them yourself. A clutch brace would make life easier though not essential.
And the manual is wrong where it says you need the sliding hammer tool & coupler to remove input shaft, you just use 3rd/4th input gear as the sliding hammer.

Also there's a few little upgrades can be done while in there if you're interested.

Can you make a video clip showing the noise etc?
 
R-III-R Turbo said:
A copy of the manual (downloadable from here) will tell you most of what you need to know, it has sections on engine removal and transmission disassembly & reassembly.
Based on your updates since and that it's a 2014, there is indeed also a strong probability of circlip dislocation and subsequent associated damage.
Even if the actuator bolt isn't the problem this time, it needs to be addressed while in there. Have seen it cause a shifter jam too besides the floppiness symptom which is most common.

As above best open it up and find out what the issue is first. But in any case you'll need a couple gaskets (RTV silicone from local auto parts shop will do all but the sump gasket may be best get the Triumph paper gasket) and a set of crankcase bolts. You can reuse the main bearing bolts. Will need a rotor brace and flywheel removal bolt, can give you dims if you're alright making them yourself. A clutch brace would make life easier though not essential.
And the manual is wrong where it says you need the sliding hammer tool & coupler to remove input shaft, you just use 3rd/4th input gear as the sliding hammer.

Also there's a few little upgrades can be done while in there if you're interested.

Can you make a video clip showing the noise etc?
Click to expand...
I’ll drop a short video tomorrow once I get home.

I’m definitely interested in some upgrades — I’m aiming to set up my Rocket as a long-haul machine. Anything that adds performance and reliability, I’m all in and happy to follow your guidance.

Question: do I really need the rotor brace? I’m trying to stick with DIY fixes and save some cash for other upgrades. I’m no stranger to MacGyver-style solutions

For the flywheel, I was planning to use the double-end wrench + 2 bolts trick I’ve used before on car transmissions, it’s always worked for me.

Also, any recommendations for flipping the engine upside down? I don’t have a stand or table for it. If it’s worth it, I’ll knock together something sturdy out of 2x4s.

Parts I’m grabbing tomorrow:
  • OEM Triumph sump gasket
  • Crankcase bolt kit
  • Mopar Engine Sealant RTV Silicone Rubber Adhesive
 
leocohete said:
I’ll drop a short video tomorrow once I get home.

I’m definitely interested in some upgrades — I’m aiming to set up my Rocket as a long-haul machine. Anything that adds performance and reliability, I’m all in and happy to follow your guidance.

Question: do I really need the rotor brace? I’m trying to stick with DIY fixes and save some cash for other upgrades. I’m no stranger to MacGyver-style solutions

For the flywheel, I was planning to use the double-end wrench + 2 bolts trick I’ve used before on car transmissions, it’s always worked for me.

Also, any recommendations for flipping the engine upside down? I don’t have a stand or table for it. If it’s worth it, I’ll knock together something sturdy out of 2x4s.

Parts I’m grabbing tomorrow:
  • OEM Triumph sump gasket
  • Crankcase bolt kit
  • Mopar Engine Sealant RTV Silicone Rubber Adhesive
Click to expand...

Don't waste your time IMG_20250114_155855.jpg
 

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