Won't start!

[Cunningham]

Couple weeks ago I got the dreaded "click click click" when trying to start. Did some research and decided to add the extra starter relay, 'cause that seemed like the easiest one to start with (no pun intended). No love. Checked the starter motor and it seemed to be faulty, so I went with the "Toyota starter rebuild fix". Only after hooking cables to the CunningRam 1500, did I get half a chug upon pressing the starter button. Seems like I'm just not getting enough power to the starter motor. Time to take it to the pros, or is there something else an amateur might be able to address?

 

[atomsplitter]

Battery. It might be reading 12 volts, but the amps are too low to start the bike would be where I start. The next option is the key barrel has desoldered to the point contact isn't being made. The 2004 to 2010 bikes had the headlight powered thru the ignition key barrel and had a bad habit of overheating the solder joints. That's where I'd be looking on a 06 Gen 1 bike.

 

[Mittzy]

As @atomsplitter has suggested is also my thoughts. To confirm with a multimeter check voltage on battery before cranking then during your cranking attempt. If the voltage drops below 9v your ECU will be shutting off due to voltage being too low hence only getting a "Clunk". I would also recheck the wiring to the extra relay mod. All is looking towards the battery being low or bad. Have you tried charging the battery? How old is the battery? if more than a few years it maybe time to replace. Remove the battery and take to a battery shop for testing and replace if required.

 

[Wdugan9080]

I had the same problem. Think I found the problem, was going to check the ground, checked the continuity of the ground and it was good, went further and pulled out the starter relay and it looked a little gummed up, pulled it out and put in a few times and it starts right up now, hopefully that was it, going to clean it better when I get a chance and add dielectric grease that was easy

 

[Cunningham]

As @atomsplitter has suggested is also my thoughts. To confirm with a multimeter check voltage on battery before cranking then during your cranking attempt. If the voltage drops below 9v your ECU will be shutting off due to voltage being too low hence only getting a "Clunk". I would also recheck the wiring to the extra relay mod. All is looking towards the battery being low or bad. Have you tried charging the battery? How old is the battery? if more than a few years it maybe time to replace. Remove the battery and take to a battery shop for testing and replace if required.

Had the battery checked a few months ago when I had trouble starting in the cold and Autozone said it was good. I've had the bike for nearly 3 years with the same battery.

 

[Gregger]

The dreaded click, click, click is usually associated with poor current/voltage supply. On our bikes I would;
1. Check the connections on the battery first. They come loose often.
2. Next check your voltage at the battery. It really should be close to 13 volts with nothing on and shouldn't drop much with the key and headlights on.
3. As stated, with the voltmeter on the battery, hit the starter button. If the voltage drops below 10 volts (this is approximate as some bikes require less current than others to start) your battery might be discharged or failing. Try boosting the bike with another good battery say from your vehicle. Remember, + to + and - to - .
4. If it still clicks, you should perform a voltage drop test across each battery lead. Neg to ground and pos to starter solenoid. Place the voltmeter across both ends of each battery terminal as stated and hit the start button. You should see less than .5 volts. Higher voltages indicate loose or corroded cable terminal ends (high resistance). The ground cable is often the culprit where it bolts to the chassis.
5. Next the starter solenoid (part of the starter) often needs to be removed and the contacts cleaned. These tend to pit. Not a hard job. A search on this site will give you tons of info on how to repair.
6. There is a starter solenoid relay that provides power to the starter solenoid. This relies on signal voltage from the start button. Voltage has to travel through the safety switches for this to activate. This usually isn't the problem with a click, click, click issue.
7. On the early Rockets, there was too much current going through the ignition switch (headlights) causing the switch to fail/heat up/melt solder contacts. This usually gave a straight failure/no start. Not a click click click.

There are many posts on this issue. Do a search for an interesting read....

 

[mexican]

I had the same issue, mine got resolved with the solenoid repair kit and a new battery.
Before the solenoid install, i tried 4 different new batteries of different brands with no luck, my 3 year old battery tested good.
I installed the solenoid kit and STILL would not start, i ordered the oem battery and it cranked beautifully.
I am convinced that mine was a combination of both.
Good luck!!

 

[Cunningham]

The dreaded click, click, click is usually associated with poor current/voltage supply. On our bikes I would;
1. Check the connections on the battery first. They come loose often.
2. Next check your voltage at the battery. It really should be close to 13 volts with nothing on and shouldn't drop much with the key and headlights on.
3. As stated, with the voltmeter on the battery, hit the starter button. If the voltage drops below 10 volts (this is approximate as some bikes require less current than others to start) your battery might be discharged or failing. Try boosting the bike with another good battery say from your vehicle. Remember, + to + and - to - .
4. If it still clicks, you should perform a voltage drop test across each battery lead. Neg to ground and pos to starter solenoid. Place the voltmeter across both ends of each battery terminal as stated and hit the start button. You should see less than .5 volts. Higher voltages indicate loose or corroded cable terminal ends (high resistance). The ground cable is often the culprit where it bolts to the chassis.
5. Next the starter solenoid (part of the starter) often needs to be removed and the contacts cleaned. These tend to pit. Not a hard job. A search on this site will give you tons of info on how to repair.
6. There is a starter solenoid relay that provides power to the starter solenoid. This relies on signal voltage from the start button. Voltage has to travel through the safety switches for this to activate. This usually isn't the problem with a click, click, click issue.
7. On the early Rockets, there was too much current going through the ignition switch (headlights) causing the switch to fail/heat up/melt solder contacts. This usually gave a straight failure/no start. Not a click click click.

There are many posts on this issue. Do a search for an interesting read....

1.
2. & 3. The battery might be on the way out despite what Autozone said, but the truck battery definitely had enough juice. Still no love.
4. Looked good on the multimeter, and the ground cable connection looked virtually pristine.
5. All new "Toyota-starter-motor-rebuild" trick!
6. This was the first thing I did.
7. Guess this will be my next venture!

 

[Wdugan9080]

1.
2. & 3. The battery might be on the way out despite what Autozone said, but the truck battery definitely had enough juice. Still no love.
4. Looked good on the multimeter, and the ground cable connection looked virtually pristine.
5. All new "Toyota-starter-motor-rebuild" trick!
6. This was the first thing I did.
7. Guess this will be my next venture!

Did you try cleaning the starter relay connector and connections, I'm telling you i went through the same thing, autozone said the battery tested good, not perfect so I replaced it, was a little better, then within a few months had the same click click, pulled the relay in and out a few times and it turned over strong, so I did a good cleaning on both sides of the connector/relay and added new dia grease, it's very quick and easy fix

 

[Cunningham]

Did you try cleaning the starter relay connector and connections, I'm telling you i went through the same thing, autozone said the battery tested good, not perfect so I replaced it, was a little better, then within a few months had the same click click, pulled the relay in and out a few times and it turned over strong, so I did a good cleaning on both sides of the connector/relay and added new dia grease, it's very quick and easy fix

I put a brand new relay in.