Want to lower the rear

mctone

.020 Over
Joined
Mar 26, 2011
Messages
32
Location
Atlanta, GA
Anyone know what length of rear shock to get for a 2" drop in the rear? Also will a 2" drop be okay for some hard leaning in corners without scraping something besides the floorboards? Any thoughts on the Progressive 412's? Any help on these things would be greatly appreciated.
 
10.1/2" is too low
I have 11.1/2 418 progressives
But am going to refit my 12" 440's now the seals have been replaced (lifetime warranty)
 
Shockingly low. I'd suggest platform (Paul Stanley) boots.
 

Attachments

  • PSBoots.jpg
    PSBoots.jpg
    3.3 KB · Views: 63
Shockingly low. I'd suggest platform (Paul Stanley) boots.
Now that's funny!:D
The R3 is new to me so just figuring where to start. Actually I'm 6'4" but I like the handling and looks of a low bike. My Suzuki Boulevard was perfect at 2" lower. So that was my starting point. So maybe just go 1"?

[/IMG]
 
How did you like the 11.5 for the height?
OK for me I'm 5ft 10" & 185 lbs & only ride solo, had to modify sidestand to get comfortable (safe) angle at rest.
I prefered the 12" 440's but be sure to get H/D springs
you should drop yokes (triple trees) till forks are 3/8" out or handling will be less sharp.
 
OK for me I'm 5ft 10" & 185 lbs & only ride solo, had to modify sidestand to get comfortable (safe) angle at rest.
I prefered the 12" 440's but be sure to get H/D springs
you should drop yokes (triple trees) till forks are 3/8" out or handling will be less sharp.

Thanks for the reply.
What modifications did you do to the side stand?
How do you drop the yokes and tell if the forks are 3/8" out?
Thanks
 
I've had 11.5" 412s on my bike for about 5 years, loved the look and thought I liked the ride. Just bought a set of stock Roadster shocks, 12.5" and wow, the cornering is much better, no scraping the pegs. I think, and this is my opinion, that 12" is as short as I would go. If I buy another set of shocks it will be 12".
 
Couple of things. If you lower the bike the trail increases on the front. That means the bike will tend to hold a straight line great but have slower turn-in. Another issue is the swingarm/drive shaft travel limits. You can remove the shocks and see how far the swingarm will move before it hits both upper and lower limits. Buying a shock that reduces the travel can have a bad influence on drive shaft life. If you want to keep the steering the same and still lower the the bike, run the fork tubes up in the triple trees about 5mm. That will shorten the trail.

For those unfamiliar with the "trail" thing it's the measurement between the theoretical line of contact on the floor parallel with your forks to the axle center. Longer trail (think stretch chopper) makes going straight easy but turning tight circles impossible. If you shorten the trail (think sport bike) then it will carve circles in your driveway but doesn't hold a straight line as well.

What ever you decide to do, get used to the bike again like new since you will affect its steering geometry.

I went with 13.5" shocks (I'm 5' 11') and it raised the bike a good half inch at the seat. I also rode Deals Gap and never touched my foot boards down (thanks more to the dark side tire profile). If you want to improve the handling keep the same length shock and lower the fork tubes.;)
 
Back
Top