Tyre pressures

[Kiwicol]

That 42 / 42 has always been a bit strange to me, 42 in a front? Then I got to thinking our front is the size of, and bigger than, many rears. Then I remember Avon Cobra Chromes were specifically developed in conjunction with and specifically for the Rocket 3. So, even though it says "max 42psi" cold on the tire & the handbook says 42 / 42 it must be ok. Just seems odd starting out at the max cold pressure.
I run the 42 / 42 as recommended & while I've just recently put on a new rear, (just over 11,000k's) the front is still within tolerance, for a few thousand k's anyway, so running at 42 doesn't accelerate wear in the centre or uneven wear.

 

[sandcritter]

Will just share that have run 39/39 solo, 40/40 w/ pillion/luggage and got just over 10k out of the rear, just shy of wear bar. Front doing better. New tires on Friday, woo!

This is with a lot of highway commutes, so flat centered, and a countryside full of twisties and have scrubbed off my cobra heads, none the less.

Choice was based on reading a lot of debate. Surely don’t want a front wash out; 39psi hasn’t worn prematurely doing so.
The rear? I dunno - pushed it pretty good and got 10k? Maybe there’s “better,” but have no complaints.

 

[Kiwicol]

Is your 10k miles or kilometers? Mine was Kilometers so 6600 miles for the rear which was getting close to the wear bars, changed it slightly early because of the greater chance of punctures.

 

[sandcritter]

Miles

 

[rick danger]

The front tire on the rocket is the same size as the rear on my KTM 1290. And I put 42 in that. This is the first bike that I'm running more in the front than the rear. I'm trying to make the bike easier to turn and make the rear a little more forgiving on square edge bumps.

 

[Kevin frazier]

Not that it matters, just posting, getting ready for ride, 76deg. In garage, fubo confirms temp, and tires are set 42psi rear 40 psi front, outside its 10 degrees gonna be 20 degrees hotter. Psi in my tires goes up or down 1 psi for every 10degs change. So if bike had been sitting out side the pressures would be 43 44 rear and 41 42 front, just food for thought, today its 90 to start, if its 50 tomorrow to start im gonna be down 4 psi, i understand not the end of the world, just saying factors change tire pressure, weather, hooning, long distance, round town, its not exactly 42 42 for me, thats just me, easy. Drag strip, 26 rear 42 front. Hooning 38rear 36 front, interstate 42 42 or close it. Riding around house with this battlax that dont last long 42+ rear 40 fr. With an exdra max i run 40 rear most of the time in it, unless racing, then i drop it some. Its fun, i realize most aint doing this nonsense, but i do. Just sharing. 130/90 bias upfront Touring,

 

[Bunny Burrell]

The front tire on the rocket is the same size as the rear on my KTM 1290. And I put 42 in that. This is the first bike that I'm running more in the front than the rear. I'm trying to make the bike easier to turn and make the rear a little more forgiving on square edge bumps.

Which bike are you talking about? The Rocket or KTM? By putting more air in your front tyre, all your doing is making the tyres foot print smaller. It’ll also shorten the tyre life, by wearing out in the middle and you’ll have less grip in the wet.
The proper way to make your bike steer quicker, is by one of two methods. If the bike has a rear ride height adjuster on the shock absorber, use that by lifting the back of the bike up. This has the effect of shortening the rake of the forks, quickening the steering. Alternatively if you have no ride height adjuster, carefully slide the forks up through the yokes ( triple trees I think you call them). Warning only do this a couple of millimetres at a time and make sure you drop them exactly the same amount, then test the bike. I’d not do this no more than 12 mm on a road bike, other wise you’ll make the bike a bit unstable on fast bumpy roads.
Hope that helps mate.

 

[rick danger]

Which bike are you talking about? The Rocket or KTM? By putting more air in your front tyre, all your doing is making the tyres foot print smaller. It’ll also shorten the tyre life, by wearing out in the middle and you’ll have less grip in the wet.
The proper way to make your bike steer quicker, is by one of two methods. If the bike has a rear ride height adjuster on the shock absorber, use that by lifting the back of the bike up. This has the effect of shortening the rake of the forks, quickening the steering. Alternatively if you have no ride height adjuster, carefully slide the forks up through the yokes ( triple trees I think you call them). Warning only do this a couple of millimetres at a time and make sure you drop them exactly the same amount, then test the bike. I’d not do this no more than 12 mm on a road bike, other wise you’ll make the bike a bit unstable on fast bumpy roads.
Hope that helps mate.

Sorry, yeah talking about the rocket. I was really talking about reduced steering effort at slow speeds from a smaller footprint, I already pushed the forks up about 10 mm in the triples. And I have a 55 series rear ready to go on. Preload is about half, but I don't want it to be spine crushing stiff. I don't ride in the rain anymore, and the fronts usually wear slower than the rears on my other bikes. So I'll see how it goes on the rocket. I like changing tires in pairs. Had it to 120 mph and felt ok. I figure (based on nothing but it being a cruiser, ha ha) they raked the bike a lot, so it should stand some reduction in rake without to much drama in high speed stability.

 

[Bunny Burrell]

Sorry, yeah talking about the rocket. I was really talking about reduced steering effort at slow speeds from a smaller footprint, I already pushed the forks up about 10 mm in the triples. And I have a 55 series rear ready to go on. Preload is about half, but I don't want it to be spine crushing stiff. I don't ride in the rain anymore, and the fronts usually wear slower than the rears on my other bikes. So I'll see how it goes on the rocket. I like changing tires in pairs. Had it to 120 mph and felt ok. I figure (based on nothing but it being a cruiser, ha ha) they raked the bike a lot, so it should stand some reduction in rake without to much drama in high speed stability.

If you change them in pairs, can I have your part worn fronts ?
Honestly mate, I’ve done quite a few track days, putting in more air in the front to quicken the steering isn’t a wise idea. You’d be better off changing the rear shock, for one where you can adjust the rear ride height. I’m not talking about preload, all that does is stiffen the ride.
You need a shock where the bottom mount can screw in and out.
I’ve got an original R111 with YSS adjustable shocks, they make so much difference.

 

[rick danger]

If you change them in pairs, can I have your part worn fronts ?
Honestly mate, I’ve done quite a few track days, putting in more air in the front to quicken the steering isn’t a wise idea. You’d be better off changing the rear shock, for one where you can adjust the rear ride height. I’m not talking about preload, all that does is stiffen the ride.
You need a shock where the bottom mount can screw in and out.
I’ve got an original R111 with YSS adjustable shocks, they make so much difference.

Rear shock is on my list. I want to try to get one that lessens the hard jolt from square edge bumps. I took most all the compression damping out of the stocker, but I'd like to do more if a different shock would help.....and yes, your welcome to my old tires, ha ha