Wdugan9080
Supercharged
Hi everyone, just got the 2008 R3T and was checking what plugs were in it and if they were worn, disconnected the speedometer/instruments on tank to get tank up and forgot to disconnect battery first, then when I connected the instruments back up, the speedometer, fuel gauge, signal cancelling, odometer, trip meter stopped working, and got a error code 1690 can bus communication problem and 0500 speed sensor not reading, on a regular automotive OBD2 scanner, reset codes and after that just got the 0500 code when I got the Lonelec cable from lonelec I think it was $20 with usb-c adapter and $20 shipping around there, took about a week to get to the state's NJ and downloaded tuneECU from Google store about $11 working good. Hooked it up and still had the MIL check engine light and reading 0500.
So I searched speedometer not working and found the thread about the wires being broken on the speed sensor, bought a used one from pinwall.com on ebay, amongst a bunch of other extra part's, I was having a field day on there, paid $63 including a year insurance, new is around $150, put it on, very hard time getting wire fished back up to the connection, about 2 grueling hour's in 95⁰f heat and sun beating down, I know I could have done it in the shade but A I didn't think it would take that long and B I keep all my tools in my car and they are parked side by side, so convenience.
But it worked, and oh yes before you start doing anything electrical disconnect the negative terminal on the battery.
Now everything is working except the clock and Trip meters reset everytime I turn the key off, think I fried something in the ECU by not disconnecting the battery first, I guess that's what fried the speed sensor.
Oh and also after the first few times I was trying to look for a bad connection I searched on Google and found a great way to clean terminals and wire's any corrosion off electrical part's, makes them shine.
But still I didn't disconnect the battery, da wasn't really thinking just wanted the $800 instrument panel to work, or the $800 ECU, or speed sensor, my bad.
Won't make that mistake again. Anything electrical disconnect the battery, I know very little about electricity, didn't think just disconnecting a terminal block would hurt, don't find out the hard way, I was really bummed till I got the speedometer and fuel gauge and odometer to work and signal cancelling, I missed those during the week to get a part in, I can live without a clock and Trip meters, never used the trip meter on anything, but would really like to get them working, if anybody knows or has any idea about what is causing them to reset, I'd appreciate it!!! TY in advance, I haven't checked to see if I'm loosing constant power to the instruments when I switch the key off, somewhat because I'm a little afraid of disconnecting the instruments again
but I guess that's my next move and maybe try to read the electrical diagram, not too good at that either, I'm one of those who dives in and reads directions when I get in a bind, I know it's wrong but I think I have a touch of ADHD at 59, and running out of patience, please don't say I have to replace the ECU, I've looked and can't find one used so can you say $800 mistake, bummer 
I think I'm calling I don't know how he spell's his screen name I think Decrosse, I've read a lot of his threads and he seems to be the guru on electrical problems. TY in advance, any help appreciated
7/20/21 Day 2
Searched for power on purple wire #3 10amp fuse good, accessory plug good, no power at instrament panel, poked the wire with a voltage probe and got power, purple wire fell off when I touched it, I guess #17 on connection block, pried connection apart and jammed wire in and crushed it with probe, couldn't get it out and didn't have soldering iron and solder available. Only problem I forgot to disconnect battery again while I did all that, disconnected battery and hooked everything
Day 3
Cranked her up, fuel range started at about 27 miles, filled it up, it went up to about 67 and guage read about 1/4 tank, held the reset information button while it was on range, jumped up to 200 miles and gauge went all the way up, YES! but it was weird I drove about a total of 6 miles that day and last time I shut it off was reading 167 miles range left? I hope the low fuel light is more reliable! Hope this help's somebody as in learn from my mistakes oh and this year R3T speedometer does not sweep or fuel gauge when you turn the key on. GL
back up, crossed fingers, said a little prayer, everything works except fuel gauge not working, I got a code 1690 can bus communication error, reset and hoping after I fill tank it will work, it did that when I replaced the speed sensor when it wasn't working the first time still crossing fingers, I see in other post's it doesn't work right away, I hope that is the problem it just has to reset it self. Put dielectric grease on everything under there. Hopefully I can close this thread tomorrow.
So I searched speedometer not working and found the thread about the wires being broken on the speed sensor, bought a used one from pinwall.com on ebay, amongst a bunch of other extra part's, I was having a field day on there, paid $63 including a year insurance, new is around $150, put it on, very hard time getting wire fished back up to the connection, about 2 grueling hour's in 95⁰f heat and sun beating down, I know I could have done it in the shade but A I didn't think it would take that long and B I keep all my tools in my car and they are parked side by side, so convenience.
But it worked, and oh yes before you start doing anything electrical disconnect the negative terminal on the battery.
Now everything is working except the clock and Trip meters reset everytime I turn the key off, think I fried something in the ECU by not disconnecting the battery first, I guess that's what fried the speed sensor.
Oh and also after the first few times I was trying to look for a bad connection I searched on Google and found a great way to clean terminals and wire's any corrosion off electrical part's, makes them shine.
Won't make that mistake again. Anything electrical disconnect the battery, I know very little about electricity, didn't think just disconnecting a terminal block would hurt, don't find out the hard way, I was really bummed till I got the speedometer and fuel gauge and odometer to work and signal cancelling, I missed those during the week to get a part in, I can live without a clock and Trip meters, never used the trip meter on anything, but would really like to get them working, if anybody knows or has any idea about what is causing them to reset, I'd appreciate it!!! TY in advance, I haven't checked to see if I'm loosing constant power to the instruments when I switch the key off, somewhat because I'm a little afraid of disconnecting the instruments again
but I guess that's my next move and maybe try to read the electrical diagram, not too good at that either, I'm one of those who dives in and reads directions when I get in a bind, I know it's wrong but I think I have a touch of ADHD at 59, and running out of patience, please don't say I have to replace the ECU, I've looked and can't find one used so can you say $800 mistake, bummer I think I'm calling I don't know how he spell's his screen name I think Decrosse, I've read a lot of his threads and he seems to be the guru on electrical problems. TY in advance, any help appreciated7/20/21 Day 2
Searched for power on purple wire #3 10amp fuse good, accessory plug good, no power at instrament panel, poked the wire with a voltage probe and got power, purple wire fell off when I touched it, I guess #17 on connection block, pried connection apart and jammed wire in and crushed it with probe, couldn't get it out and didn't have soldering iron and solder available. Only problem I forgot to disconnect battery again while I did all that, disconnected battery and hooked everything
Day 3
Cranked her up, fuel range started at about 27 miles, filled it up, it went up to about 67 and guage read about 1/4 tank, held the reset information button while it was on range, jumped up to 200 miles and gauge went all the way up, YES! but it was weird I drove about a total of 6 miles that day and last time I shut it off was reading 167 miles range left? I hope the low fuel light is more reliable! Hope this help's somebody as in learn from my mistakes oh and this year R3T speedometer does not sweep or fuel gauge when you turn the key on. GL
back up, crossed fingers, said a little prayer, everything works except fuel gauge not working, I got a code 1690 can bus communication error, reset and hoping after I fill tank it will work, it did that when I replaced the speed sensor when it wasn't working the first time still crossing fingers, I see in other post's it doesn't work right away, I hope that is the problem it just has to reset it self. Put dielectric grease on everything under there. Hopefully I can close this thread tomorrow.
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