Treating years of yuck in the tank

Greetings, R3 Family,
I need advice from anyone who has dealt with treating extensive flaky deposits within an R3's gas tank. I have my tank off now and drained about a gallon of very foul fuel, along with a fistful of rusty bits. My '05 R3 had been basically abandoned after her first year and has only 1291 miles showing on the odometer. Unfortunately, the fuel had not been drained back in '06. Surprisingly, the engine itself turns over well (PTL) and the electrics seem to be functioning. I am a long way from attempting to start her, especially with the extensive fuel corruption throughout the fuel system. Before I do anything in attempting to treat the flakes and rust inside the tank I want to ask if anyone in the 'family' reading this has some sage advice. I have removed the internal injection fuel pump assembly (another major issue to address someday soon) and gotten most of the flaky rust shaken out once the spoiled fuel was drained. Just wondering now what the best procedure would be in successfully prepping the inside surface before lining it and what the best-recommended tank liner might be to purchase in treating a six-gallon tank. Any thoughts, suggestions, or prayers?

Dave Mac said:

Greetings, R3 Family,
I need advice from anyone who has dealt with treating extensive flaky deposits within an R3's gas tank. I have my tank off now and drained about a gallon of very foul fuel, along with a fistful of rusty bits. My '05 R3 had been basically abandoned after her first year and has only 1291 miles showing on the odometer. Unfortunately, the fuel had not been drained back in '06. Surprisingly, the engine itself turns over well (PTL) and the electrics seem to be functioning. I am a long way from attempting to start her, especially with the extensive fuel corruption throughout the fuel system. Before I do anything in attempting to treat the flakes and rust inside the tank I want to ask if anyone in the 'family' reading this has some sage advice. I have removed the internal injection fuel pump assembly (another major issue to address someday soon) and gotten most of the flaky rust shaken out once the spoiled fuel was drained. Just wondering now what the best procedure would be in successfully prepping the inside surface before lining it and what the best-recommended tank liner might be to purchase in treating a six-gallon tank. Any thoughts, suggestions, or prayers?

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I'd get a new tank, the rust will be a problem with the injection system, you'll constantly clog the filter, bite the bullet you'll thank yourself in the long run.

Hoopla

I have cleaned many tanks on older bike sand cars and have never had any issues. As far as prep goes, depends on which product you go with, some, like POR-15, come with several solutions including the appropriate prep stuff. I'm not sure what the max capacity the "motorcycle" kit covers, but I have done the 10 gal tank on my old VW bug with the normal POR 15 sealer kit in the past. I have also used KREEM in my old Honda Magna tank. Both appeared to hold up fine. Never had any issues with either once they were done. Depending on severity of the rust, you can make a plate or something to cover the area where the stock bottom plate goes and put some BB's in, I like using the raw copper ones (no chance of sparking-probably overkill though) and a good rust remover solution and put them inside and shake for awhile...let sit, shake some more...etc until you're happy with the outcome. When it comes time for sealing, MAKE sure any vent lines, etc. are not plugged with the sealant, either by blocking off before hand or by making sure you clear them out as the sealant is curing to prevent it from curing over a desired hole as it's a ***** to get off/out once it cures.

Supposedly bathroom cleaner called Works works.

Broken safety glass cleans a lot better than BB’s

A piece of small chain, some odd nuts and bolts, also work pretty well. Then maybe some OSPHO

First I want to extend my thanks for each of you who have responded. While I have used Kreem & Caswell tank products in the past, they were on much smaller and less complicated tanks than our R3's come fitted with. In order of response I'd like to address your individual suggestions:

Hoopla: Ouch! I sure hope it doesn't come down to purchasing a new tank. You may be right of course... I guess I was only going to consider tank replacement as a last resort. This R3 is not running; once I get her started I will be better able to assess what else I'll need to replace and repair. A new tank would have to wait (a good used tank is a solid possibility though).

Stillserving: You've inspired me to at least try it! Plate on the bottom is smart idea... so is plugging the vent lines. Yeah, this is a big job, one I certainly don't want to rush into. I am considering doing one half of the tank first (like the bottom portion) then doing the upper 1/2 portion. I should check with the product maker and see if this is feasible. I agree that getting the flaky surface attended to is critical before application of the product.

Tripps: I've never heard of using a bathroom cleaner called WORKS until now ~ wow, I am excited to try it!! Thank you

FE_rex: This is also a first for me... broken safety glass is rough, heavy, and probably less likely to mess anything up inside structurally. I might try it and get back with the forum on my findings. Thanks for the suggestion.

cootertwo: I've got plenty of that material out in the barn (nuts, bolts, etc)... great idea. I'm thinking maybe of combining the broken safety glass that FE_rex mentioned in conjunction with the metal hardware. Do you know if the tank sealant is compatible with OSPHO? It seems like a good idea to pretreat the metal after cleaning it but b4 putting in the tank sealant provided the sealant will stick to the Ospho. I am thinking I should try these suggestions and then do a report back to the forum on what I learn. Worst case scenario is I'll be buying a new/used tank if all else fails.

My thanks to all of you for sharing your thoughts. It's appreciated!

Tripps said:

Supposedly bathroom cleaner called Works works.

Click to expand...

Mmmmnn
A what doesn't kill you makes you stronger theory?
Hydrochloric Acid 9.5%

Reacts with household chemicals such as bleach based toilet bowl
cleaners, rust removers, vinegar, acids or ammonia containing products to
produce chlorine containing hazardous gases.

Sounds like good stuff

The POR kit includes their rust remover/inhibiter and that stuff works really good.
Also There is this stuff I have used in the past to good results too: (it's phosphoric acid BTW)