Yeah,.The cam timing chain goes between the cams in the cylinder head and the crank in the top crank case. As said I realised too that the bottom case can be separated without removing the cam chain. I used a dead blow hammer / rubber mallet to encourage the cases apart. The cases are real soft so don't go jabbing no screwdriver between em like I did with my sump and had to get welder to fill a gash I made in the flange. (fnar fnar)
So I got the cases split apart. It seems something in either the shift drum or shift star/shaft assembly is binding in the travel. Even without the output shaft installed.
So I got the cases split apart. It seems something in either the shift drum or shift star/shaft assembly is binding in the travel. Even without the output shaft installed.
I don't see anything obviously wrong. After fiddling with the bits and uninstalling & reinstalling the selector forks, I realized the arm that turns the shift star had not come back in. I think the return spring might be weak (not the detent spring, the one that brings the arm back up when turning the star)
I don't see anything obviously wrong. After fiddling with the bits and uninstalling & reinstalling the selector forks, I realized the arm that turns the shift star had not come back in. I think the return spring might be weak (not the detent spring, the one that brings the arm back up when turning the star)
Good luck. I spent two weeks calling and Emailing. Gave up and sent a letter hand wrote. Never got a response. M/T performance can do the same at half the cost. Very good folks and they know how to answer a phone. Plus they know a thing or to about our transmissions.
Good luck. I spent two weeks calling and Emailing. Gave up and sent a letter hand wrote. Never got a response. M/T performance can do the same at half the cost. Very good folks and they know how to answer a phone. Plus they know a thing or to about our transmissions.