Throttle Meister question

What exactly constitutes a Café Racer? If a bike has a Throttlemeister is it disqualified as a Café Racer? Ton Up "club" accepts no "cruisers", no exceptions!

Rocky, Rocky....You don't and never will have a café racer. A café racer is a British term for a stripped down bike of Bonneville genre with clip on bars and rear sets ridden by a leather clad biker from pub to pub. I guess you could put rear sets and clip ons on a R3, it would look hokey though.

You need to lurk over in the NTBF or the BIR or the RAT twins forums for an eyeful of café racers. Me, I'm too old for that lay down crap.

The 'ton up club' is about going 100 mph (140 clicks, I think). Your R3 will do that right now. The café racers have a hard time getting to 3 digits.
 
Thanks Tomo, I'll do just that! I'll try it on the left side to get a feel for the concept and the travel of the mechanism. What a great idea.

If I'm understanding the principle of this device properly, it "pushes" against the "end" of the plastic sleeve of the throttle twist (or even against the rubber grip itself) and prevents it from returning to "idle" position by introducing a compressive clamping action, until the helix device is released, or, the grip is forced back the the idle position (overriding the clamping action) by a reverse twist of the grip. Now, if you recall reading this in threads before, the Kuryakyn grips are about 3/4" to 1" longer than the stock ones. If my expectations are correct (and they my not be), do I need to figure out a way to increase the length of the grip sleeve so that the Throttlemeister has something to compress against, or will it simply compress against the end of the Kuryakyn grip?

The design of the Kuryakyn grips are different in that they are a "skeleton" of metal, made into the different shapes Kuryakyn grips are known for. And the rubber inserts have raised areas to match the voids of the metal skeleton. The rubber inserts (made in 2 pieces) are inserted down the middle of the metal skeleton and then pushed out thru the openings of the skeleton. The grip was difficult getting on the throttle sleeve because the rubber inserts kept "rolling" out of the skeleton. It took lots of time & care to keep the rubber inserts straight & in place during the pushing process. I don't recall how rigid the Kuryakyn grip is if you were to push on the end. These Kuryakyn grips have end caps which get screwed on with 4 small screws, so I'm thinking the Throttlemeister could work effectively against the end of the grip itself.

Any comments?

Pig9r, that is exactly the page I was looking at when I ask the question of the replacement grip. I figured the price ($13+) was just for the rubber grip. Maybe/hopefully it is the price of the plastic sleeve with the grip in place. The "left grip" shown surely is just the rubber grip, cause that is all that is on the left side. What do you think?
 
If the Kury grips are 3/4 to 1 inch longer than the stock ones, how does Kury tell you to put the stock bar ends back on? If they are that much longer the stock bar ends wouldn't fit either. (Keep in mind I don't have Kury grips:D). (Edit... I just saw your "endcap" comment)

One way to fix this would be to loosen the screws on your handlebar controls and move those in 3/4 to 1 inch to compensate for the longer Kury grips.

Maybe we can get together this Sunday and figure this out... see PianoMan's post in the KC Rider's group:D
 
That's what I "do" believe I'll have to do is loosen the entire throttle/brake and clutch housings & slide them accordingly "up" the handle bars. The caps I speak of are simply a "cavity closure" cap. They simply seal off the end of the grip where they "hang" off the end of the bars. If I recall correctly, the portion of the rubber which does not go onto the plastic sleeve of the throttle grip "drags" on the exposed handle bar beneath (if I slide the throttle housing up the bar as I have tried) causing the throttle to drag upon return to idle position. I'm thinking I'll need to come up with a sleeve (just large enough an ID to slide around the handle bar diameter) to slip into the end of the Kury grip to keep it from dragging.

To answer your question Tomo, the Kury grips come with their own caps & application style. The original Triumph weights are laying in the basement. Kury does not mention any means of reinstalling the stock end weights. That's why all these questions of mine are flying around. I'll need to adlib to complete the fit-up properly.

I was also thinking I could route the throttle cables back to their original place due to gaining some slack by sliding the grips up the bars as needed. I had to re-route because I installed the Rivco handle bar risers. That way I can get rid of that goofie mounting bracket used to relocate the "Y" of the front brake lines near the top of the radiator. The relocation bracket supplied by Rivco was not thought out very well (IMO).

Blah, Blah, Blah. Quite talking & get started, right?

One last question Tomo, do you believe the Throttlemeister "pushes" against the rubber end of the grip, or the end of the plastic throttle sleeve? Just curious of your thoughts.
 
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Hey coyote569, I had seen the video before but did not concentrate on the "advancing brass insert" that is noticible if you look closely.

Thanks for calling it (the video) to my attention once again. If a guy askes enough questions, and stirs the pot enough, they finally get the info they are after.

See ya.
 
Just wanted to post a few pics of the Kuryakyn grips verses the stock. Just for the Halibut! One more "comparison" image in my photo album.
 

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