Throttle Cables Binding?

"i know that there is an inner cable and there is an outer cable that supports the inner cable.
maybe they are talking about the inside cable (closest to the motor) which is the closing cable and the outer cable (is the cable farther away from the motor) opening throttles at the engine." Well, that is what I was wondering too but the only sense I can make of it is if they are talking about the outer sheath of the cable versus the inner wire cable where these attach to the push/pull spring gizmo at the throttle bodies.

I will attach photos of the ferrules on the cables at the upper end of the cables where they go to the throttle grip. I see threads on the top cable and none showing on the bottom cable. How do these compare to your settings? So, these do have something to do with cable adjustment as to tension or slack in the throttle cables? If so, where then would I apply cable lube to these cables? Thanks Herm!!!

PS A couple photos show my fingers pulling on the throttle cables when the bars are complete lock to the left, showing plenty of slack when bars are locked to the left. Now wondering if cables should be routed over the top of my triple tree instead of below the triple tree.......???

Ok I'm just jumping in here
Think of down on the throttle body as course adjustment and the two adjusters at the top are for fine adjustment as things stretch and chand a little. Much like the clutch has the course adjustment at the bottom where the cable mounts and fine adjustment up top at the clutch lever.
Now I would think to start with you would want the two fine adjusters up top to start at midway that way they will adjust in both directions. Its been a wee bit but that 2 to 3 mm freeplay should also be verified down at the two cables. Kind of like plucking a guitar string.
Thes are push and pull cables with that you do not want them working against each other.
I'm taking a supper break
But it looks like you have some typ of RoX style bar risers. This might seem to shorten your cables a we bit.

my cables are running under the triple tree. i bought mine with 6000 miles and some work had been done to it .
a while back i changed my grips and it seemed like it was kind of hard working working with it. while working with it i had the cables off and forgot to lube them but i think that mine looked a lot like yours.
anyway i worked with the bottom adjusters to give me a way to have a little adjustment on the top.
at the bars the top cable looks great
the bottom cable needs to be backed off so that adjuster at the bars looks like the other cable with about .100 inches.
you need to work on the inside cable so back the top nut off quite a bit so you can take out the cable end and adjust the nut up about 1/4 inches
on a different thought once that cable is off that make it free up. when it is free mine will be like real loose and i have it adjusted with the 2-3 mm of play.
if the cables are binding that would probably keep the grip from returning.
if you want to use google meet we could use our phones to see what each of us has. 520-649-one three 42 i can only do this while a shop and i am here now and so is bike.

warp9.9 said:

Ok I'm just jumping in here
Think of down on the throttle body as course adjustment and the two adjusters at the top are for fine adjustment as things stretch and chand a little. Much like the clutch has the course adjustment at the bottom where the cable mounts and fine adjustment up top at the clutch lever.
Now I would think to start with you would want the two fine adjusters up top to start at midway that way they will adjust in both directions. Its been a wee bit but that 2 to 3 mm freeplay should also be verified down at the two cables. Kind of like plucking a guitar string.
Thes are push and pull cables with that you do not want them working against each other.
I'm taking a supper break
But it looks like you have some typ of RoX style bar risers. This might seem to shorten your cables a we bit.

Click to expand...

perfectly explained thanks Warp

TURBO200R4 said:

perfectly explained thanks Warp

Click to expand...

The latest moves I had time for today: I screwed the ferrule out , the one showing no threads, to show as many threads as the ferrule in the other cable next to it, above. No bueno, even worse then, even harder to move throttle grip no matter where I pointed the bars. Next move was to close the ferrules down so no threads were showing on either ferrule. Now I have the free play at the throttle grip the manual talks about, 2-3mm. Still have the throttle freezing up solid when going approx. 1/3rd of the way past center of steering head to full stop to the right.

So, next move will be removing whatever I have to in order to unbury the cable connections near the intakes. It has been 4 or 5 years since I did that on my '06 Classic. It is quickly coming back to me as to what a pain in the neck it is. So far, removed the bear claw with the itsy bitsy bolts that hold it to the tank, good grief. Anyway, hoping adjustments down below will help. Don't know at this point if I have to remove the expansion tank and/or the air plenum, can't remember and my manual requires an hours of searching with my one good eye to find the steps for this. May need to raise tank which will also suck because the risers put the gauges in a crappier position, than usual. So, yeah, old man whining.

Attached pictures trying show what I see about cable and harness routing. Throttle cables do not look to me to be properly routed under the cover panel. They looked squashed under that cover, tighter than a banjo string but I am just guessing at this point. Maybe you will see something that doesn't look right.

I sure appreciate you fellow Rocketeers taking time to guide me through this.

Throttle cables going under cover, circled in red.

The pictures are to small to see anything on my phone maybe when I get to computer on Monday
I have no dought that the lower cable is to tight so when you turned it that made the cable even tighter making the problem even worse.
Mine has the claw and the resivore removed plus the little cover that keeps dirt from getting in.
I know exactly what you need to do.
You must take off claw and take a Pic
Take off resivore sna0 pics of the front area because there is a little bracket that will come off when you pull the small cover. Then it will be wide open.
Work with the inside cable the top nut should go up 5/16 inch then the cable should come down and out of bracket (when the cable is in place that is what holds the lower nut) then raise the bottom nut 5/16 inch and the uper nut as far up.as it will go install the cable back into the bracket and then lower the top nut and tighten.
At this point the cable should be free.
And you should be able to adjust the adjuster on the handlebar to set it to 2-3 mm.
By doing this you are shorting the outer cable which may or maynot resemble the manual.
Also I think it will more closely resemble the other cable. I will try to post pictures of mine.

This is my lower cables and I can go wot with just my thumb and fingers not using my whole grip.
My to adjustment have about 5/16 inch so I can go either way.
Hth herman

TURBO200R4 said:

This is my lower cables and I can go wot with just my thumb and fingers not using my whole grip.
My to adjustment have about 5/16 inch so I can go either way.
Hth herman

Click to expand...

Hey Herman, I worked on the lower end of the cables to match yours as best I could. I couldn't figure a way to measure them accurately but I did count the threads exposed on the top side of the bracket above the nuts in your photo and did my best to match those. Doing that did in fact free up and improve the throttle grip a bit when bars were turned to right. Can you post a picture of your adjusters up top on the handlebars. I will copy your settings via the threads and lock nut/wheel position and hope to get even more improvement.

Thanks!

Setting them like mine is not necessary going to be correct but i will take pics
when you have the bottom cables then you set the top cables at the adjusters. moving the bottom should have gave you more clearance at the top so then you would have to adjust the top cables to get the 2-3mm of clearance
i will try to post a couple of pics.