Certainly worth a visit. Thanks for the heads up.
The pan gasket is seeeeemingly new and red and no that is not silicone. Dunno of anyone has been there before and for what reason.

Also wonder with these early bikes and their later potential updates - IF, and that is one big if, the bike had any work done in warranty or claimed afterwards do you think it is possible to see in their records after all these years when checked against my VIN?

Were the pans updated by Triumph themselves or was it rather owners preventive attitude typically?

Bloody carnage in these pictures :/ so how do I get to these screens and check for debris? Or maybe it makes more sense to open the current oil filter and see what’s inside?
OR is the best way to check it take the belly pan off anyways?
 
Certainly worth a visit. Thanks for the heads up.
The pan gasket is seeeeemingly new and red and no that is not silicone. Dunno of anyone has been there before and for what reason.



Also wonder with these early bikes and their later potential updates - IF, and that is one big if, the bike had any work done in warranty or claimed afterwards do you think it is possible to see in their records after all these years when checked against my VIN?

Were the pans updated by Triumph themselves or was it rather owners preventive attitude typically?

Bloody carnage in these pictures :/ so how do I get to these screens and check for debris? Or maybe it makes more sense to open the current oil filter and see what’s inside?
OR is the best way to check it take the belly pan off anyways?

Also read somewhere in the forum these had a high rate of gearbox issues and no, not related to the detent spring. Rounded cogs and clips being pushed out of their grooves resulting in catastrophic failure and lockage.
Probably IF any job has been done on it ever that should also have been recorded by Triumph somewhere.
Will go and ask the local dealer.
It looks worse then it is. Anyway yes Triumph changed the design of the sump pan early on. I'm not sure if there was a recall on them. I can say I like how they relocated the two sump screens. They are esoy to get at once the sump is down. You can even take the sump off with the bike on the side stand. I prefer standing the bike straight up. Or at least put a 2x4 under the side stand to stand he more upright. It's really pretty simple. Triumph says to renew the screen bolts but I just clean them and reapply medium grade thread locker. No matter what Year Rocket III From 04 to the end of the roadster you will find machining swarf in the screens. This is why I'd atleast drop mine if it's never been off. I do it during the oil change and all you out is the 20 dollar gasket. Small price to insure screens are clean and free flowing.
 
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Thanks mate.

Following the topic of the early Rockets being hit and miss bikes - is there anything else I should check?
Heard about the FD leaks - but I will take it all apart to see the splines and the gearbox side as well - from my experience with motoguzzi this design can get rusty - especially the rubber boot on the transmission is just press fit so pressure washer water can easily get it. I would say even water spray while riding can ingress. So Thats rhe shaft and FD. Heard the FD is not rebuildable - which blows my mind. With these bikes hitting 20+ years not being able to replace a seal is a major Fxxkup.

Also - based on my experience I THINK I can hear a timing chain whine AND it rattles a little esp when cold - is there a way to measure the tensioning bolt extension? Or is that a popular thing to replace the tensioner with a manual unit as the original ratcheting type is not doing its job properly???

And the gearbox - I just had a 300m ride in my street very carefully to see if the bike tracks straight and if all the gears are in - it was very wet and I couldn’t really test the rollon acceleration in 2nd and 3rd - so this is still to come. I just hope this bike has not been trashed in its 30kkm life which can be sort of attested by the state of the brakediscs and that the tranny is ok.

Im my thinking these should be as reliable as a brick /bmw brick that is :)/ and if ridden on the sane side of things these bikes should return 200kkm easily with the engine being so long legged and unstressed - you dont have to twist a lot to get it going. Shame that to do anything on the tranny it is an engine out and split case :/
 
Some progress today. Hope for mot next week.
 

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Yup :) this time I got very lucky all good in there. The new tank had a couple of dings which I managed to massage out with a wooden dowel through the pump opening.
I need to take the radiator off to straighten the fixings and maybe tomorrow I will fire her up again.

Is that normal the bike requires a little cranking from cold? Bit too much for my liking. Once it comes to life idle regulation etc all works as supposed. On ignition I can hear the stepper adjusting constantly so I think it can be the nature of things. Once it has run a moment it starts immediately afterwards.
Me thinks it might want some adjustment for the cold start however the idle is nicely elevated so tge stepper is doing its job before bringing it down to roughly steady 850rpm where it stays rock solid.

Also - when looking under the tank. There are three free plugs. I am guessing this could be the fuel gauge, clock and??? The top one with the yellow insert seems like could have been used since there is green residue characteristic of water plus electricity galvanic thing. Am I missing something in there???
 

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Yup :) this time I got very lucky all good in there. The new tank had a couple of dings which I managed to massage out with a wooden dowel through the pump opening.
I need to take the radiator off to straighten the fixings and maybe tomorrow I will fire her up again.

Is that normal the bike requires a little cranking from cold? Bit too much for my liking. Once it comes to life idle regulation etc all works as supposed. On ignition I can hear the stepper adjusting constantly so I think it can be the nature of things. Once it has run a moment it starts immediately afterwards.
Me thinks it might want some adjustment for the cold start however the idle is nicely elevated so tge stepper is doing its job before bringing it down to roughly steady 850rpm where it stays rock solid.

Also - when looking under the tank. There are three free plugs. I am guessing this could be the fuel gauge, clock and??? The top one with the yellow insert seems like could have been used since there is green residue characteristic of water plus electricity galvanic thing. Am I missing something in there???
Sorry, but I'm a bit new to these bikes. Others know way more.
 
Rad off to have its fixtures straight again.
Btw the top bolt holes are **** through! IF you ever choose to run your bike without the top radiator chrome cover have that in mind - otherwise prepare for a hot shower!
So step by step this is moving forward.

I failed at welding the fuel cap hinge. The hole in the tank being off centre I fear I need to look for another Triumph cap :/ this will not be healed with a generic cap of sorts I am afraid.

Both wheels need a bead blast and will be powder coated. Black probably.

Found a French insurance sticker on the upper fork leg - seems like this bike was running in the wind last in 2023. This explains the corrosion in a way.
 

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Well… not all goes as planned. Trying to straighten the top right hanger I cracked the solder underneath and it is leaking big time. Will try to source some local rad repairman to have a look at this.
If it weren’t for the bloody rivets and just the solder all would be good. Will see what kind of advice I get at a professional place.
Also - another problem - bought a cable and license for TuneEcu. Cant connect. The tablet is reading a list of nodes I reckon but none of them allows connecting. Any advice on that?
Heard the cable may be of not the kind liked by the software.
Edit:
Arriving home I checked the Tuneecu licence has not been registered - maybe that was the reason. Will check again tomorrow.
 

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