I read that years ago, now I have almost all my bikes switched over to Motobatt. They can sit a couple months without a tender and fire right up. You must have gotten a bad one, Steve.
I read that years ago, now I have almost all my bikes switched over to Motobatt. They can sit a couple months without a tender and fire right up. You must have gotten a bad one, Steve.
Yes... I am just setting back watching the comments to see what battery to buy when I need one. But they do rate the Motobatt pretty high. Is this the one you are using.
Well, I have 4 I think, different bikes take different batteries. My r65 for example, there are only 2 manufacturers that make one to fit it, no Motobatt. My R3T has whichever Motobatt cross referenced to the stock battery.
I read that years ago, now I have almost all my bikes switched over to Motobatt. They can sit a couple months without a tender and fire right up. You must have gotten a bad one, Steve.
There is very little liquid in there (by design) - and they can dry out (as can normal lead acid) - either due to being somewhere HOT or due to overcharging. Sealed batteries makes checking near impossible. The water is necessary for the chemical interaction for lead and acid (dry acid does not work). I have had AGM's that lasted decades and others that lasted no time. I have had Motobatts and my results were mixed - worked well in one place not so well elsewhere.
I now use Lithium Iron Phosphate on both bikes. Big boring old lead acid on the 4WD - and I prised the seal cover plate off so I can check the levels.
I think to be honest some individual vehicles are simply battery busters. My Guzzi eats them. I have had it since 1982 and it has always been fussy. The best normal battery it ever had was an EXIDE AGM designed to fit Ford Escorts. My home built LiPO4 is doing well though.
The only difference between the MBTX20UHD and the MBTX2OU is one is heavy duty and they charge more, now whether putting it in a black case makes it heavy duty or not who knows.