Something Failed, let’s find it! Transmission Analysis.

Thanks for confirming Paul.

The plan moving forward I think is to buy a new shift drum, input and output shafts, bearings, whichever gear I sheared, and have most of it cryo treated.

While that’s in the mail, Add an MTC billet basket, refresh the exhaust coating (warranty work), and rework the harness by soldering everything. Relocate all the electrics, PC-V, PDM-60, keyless etc to the stock battery location. Send my oil sample off for analysis.

Add the upgraded starter, pull the stock airbox replace with a custom battery tray for a stronger battery. Add a master kill switch so I can disconnect the battery easily and stop any/all parasitic drains.

Remove all the bullcrap extra stuff on the frame that I don’t need (like the rear fender supports being MASSIVE). Pull the wheels, whee bearings, and send out for powder coating along with some little bits here and there I want redone.

Budget allowing: Get the Carbon Dry tank cover and send all the carbon off for candy paint.

I don’t think there’s any chance I’ll be riding in time for RAA West, but I’m **** sure going to try!! If I don’t make it, it’ll be me waiting on a shop or parts from Triumph!

Will post pics as I go, might as well bring everyone along for the ride :)


While you're doing all this, you could send me your '14 factory fitted ECU and I'll see if the Triumph software will unlock it to take earlier Roadster maps (e.g. the 9000rpm one) like my '17 one does
 
Hey Claviger.....i have a new avatar for you son!!!.....all the best with your repairs and we will all be watching and reading with interest!

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Cryogenic flaw detection is used in the aviation industry for turban disks that hold the blades and generate the thousands of pounds thrust in jet engines.

The physics of this is that the cold alone won't do it. It must be put under stress, as in a centrifuge. In aviation, this is done in heavy concrete lined room, because this process goes one of two ways. If the micro cracks in the metal are small enough, the metal rejoins, and the part is renewed. If the micro cracks are over a threshold, the part breaks up catastrophically.

And this process is really expensive -- at least what I saw when I was in the Air Force.

For automotive use there's an application where its essentially cold tempered for lack of a better term. The rate it warmed controls the end strength, slow controlled warming from extreme cold yields a stronger crystalline structure in gears. I've seen a lot of people explain why it doesn't work, but I've seen more anecdotal evidence proving it absolutely works, it's also not nearly as expensive as doing it for aircraft components when done to vehicle items.
 
Hey Claviger.....i have a new avatar for you son!!!.....all the best with your repairs and we will all be watching and reading with interest!

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Love it.

The fact I can do the work myself is what pisses me off so much about when it's done wrong, it's not that I can't, it's that I was paying for the luxury of not having to...

no more.
 
I think your quest for high rpm and super fast gear changing/sport riding may have just slapped you in the face matey:(...why dont you leave all that manic stuff for bikes that where built for it and give the old girl an easier life;) not being negative here when i read your posts i feel your riding style would be better suited on a sports bike. No ime not a boring old harley rider as i have silly high power bikes myself and i loving killing them on a sunday morning:D Anyway my friend thats a piss poor bit of luck there but ime sure with your know how it will be split and fixed in no time..watching with interest:thumbsup:
Agreed the R3 an amazing capable machine but it has it limitations. buy yourself a V max 1700 or B-king
 
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As far as I got today. Engine is free in the frame, just need to figure out to get it out of the frame lol.

No overhead structure I can use, need to think on this before I try and force something to work and end up breaking something.
 
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