Shorter Rear Shocks


At 290mm they are 30mm shorter than standard (according to Hagon), this in theory should lower by around 38mm (1½") - but with a Ø1" bigger tyre you have a net 1" lower ride height, just as you say.

And yes it has helped - knowledge is power!
 

As you say Hagon are helpful, its just a case of giving them the ride height I want, they would then sort them out.

The particulars would be useful, thanks.
 
barbagris said:
Colin - As pressured air is not a mystery to you. Think about Fournales as well. But buy direct from Fournales if you do.

Mine are on spec over length - but air shocks need to be longer ime.
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I am thinking about them Chris, they would be ideal - but at a price, £655 is the cheapest I've found. How do you adjust ride height though - reducing pressure would lower but would also change the spring rate, no?

EDIT:

Been on their site, ride height adjusted by pressure! Also need a hp air pump - that's another £45. My compressor doesn't do 17.5bar.
 
Last edited:
I got a free pump with mine. It's why I suggest talking to them direct. Not MAW etc. I asked how much - got a price and they said - btw free pump too.

Mine are the HD-Alloy - not actually listed for the R3 but they do them. It was somebody else who told me - so I asked.
 
The only shocks for an R3 I know of that permit ride height to be adjustable independent from initial spring rate are GAZI - Aussie. My Guzzi mate swears by them - You tell them what you need and they'll actually HELP.

Thing is you could buy them 10mm shorter but with an additional 10mm longer eyelet should you ever want to go to a Metzler or Avon again.
 
Battersea said:
So in theory you have lowered by about 40mm without any problems? that's interesting. Need to ask if you ride with passenger and luggage. Also what tyre you running?
Click to expand...
No passengers, no luggage apart from S/C & intercooler, tyre is 18" cobra
 
Trirocket3 said:
No passengers, no luggage apart from S/C & intercooler, tyre is 18" cobra
Click to expand...

The 240/40 x 18 has almost exactly the same diameter as the stock size Cobra so with your 11½ shocks that gives a ride height 35mm lower. That would do very nicely but might have to go to hd springs due to passenger and luggage.

Any particular reason why you changed from 440s to 418s?
 


For What It's Worth.
I went to 11.5" Progressives - they were $hit suspension with little to no damping. Every chuck hole slammed my back when the rear end would leap up and out of the hole.
I further found everything under was dragging pavement in the twisties (not just pegs) which forced me to slow down more that with the stock shocks - and those stock shocks sucked as well.

I went with the Hagon Nitro 310mm (12.2") with 3.2" travel. HUGE improvement in damping! BUT, the bike still dragged excessively and dangerously in the twisties - even after I screwed the spring down two full turns to lift things up some.

When I heal and am able to repair my motor, I shall replace those Hagons with 320mm (12.6") slightly taller than stock. Having to have both feet flat on the ground is overrated and serves nothing to improve handling. Once you start moving forward, your feet should immediately be up on the pegs. One foot down is all that is really needed anyway. If you NEVER drag anything except pegs in the corners, you are set. If you do drag more than an occasional peg and other undercarriage then you NEED to get more ground clearance and produce better lean angles.
JMHO,
1olbull
 
Having the feet closer to the ground helps when maneuvering and reversing cos the shorter your legs the more lean angle you need increasing the chance of toppling over with such a heavy bike.
 
Mittzy said:
Having the feet closer to the ground helps when maneuvering and reversing cos the shorter your legs the more lean angle you need increasing the chance of toppling over with such a heavy bike.
Click to expand...

Amigo,
I have only a 29" inseam and if raising the bike puts me on my toes with both feet down, so be it. One flat foot down is enough.
Not sure what you mean here; but, other than backing out from a stop at any angle I keep my feet up on the pegs for better control with slow maneuverability.
I can't properly control a bike with only hands on bars and ass on seat, legs flailing about. Feet on pegs and hands on bars are necessary for best control.
I do understand that backing up with short legs is a *****. Better pre parking planning is the best answer for that.
1olbull
 
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