shift down from gear 3-->2 it gives “twitch/loose”

Flying Finn R3 · Dec 16, 2013

Hi,
following issue for buddys R3 Classic 2007 ride ~30k km

Every time when shift down from gear 3-->2 and clutch comes off and at same time give the gas it gives “twitch/loose” But the gear does not jump off.
When ride/pull gear up 1 - 2 - 3… it operating normally with no twitch/loose.

take place only when shift down from gear 3 to 2

Is there solution for this?

Hayabusa · Dec 16, 2013

Hi my tourer did that and then started jumping out of gear only 2/3 gear....... found out the detent spring is broken
there is a thread on here about it somewhere

warp9.9 · Dec 16, 2013

Not to sound stupid or awnry infact its great to see bike related post on this site as it seems to have gone politically religous
but whats a twitch/loose ? Can you give a better explanation?

RocketandRollit · Dec 16, 2013

Warp, you're not alone here. I can't really understand what he's trying to describe.
The only difference is; when he gives a better description, you can probably offer some good advice. Me, not so much...

Paul Bryant · Dec 16, 2013

warp9.9 said:
Not to sound stupid or awnry infact its great to see bike related post on this site as it seems to have gone politically religous

HA ! :stirthepot:

Flying Finn R3 · Dec 17, 2013

hayabusa said:
Hi my tourer did that and then started jumping out of gear only 2/3 gear....... found out the detent spring is broken
there is a thread on here about it somewhere

thanks, I have the same opinion of the problem. Fault could be the spring.

I go myself to ride his bike, it will tell me more, what is wrong.

"buddy just be hypochondriac":whistle:

warp9.9 · Dec 17, 2013

Flying Finn said:
thanks, I have the same opinion of the problem. Fault could be the spring.

I go myself to ride his bike, it will tell me more, what is wrong.

"buddy just be hypochondriac":whistle:

If it is the detent spring then its about a 4 hour job unless you have done it before then you can easily shave between 1 to 2 hours off that as long as you have all the parts needed. Spring, Gaskets, Clutch hub nut and as long as your in there you might as well update the lifter piece and throw a new lifter shaft in her for good measure. You might not need the lifter shaft but at the price you might as well have it handy. Myself I would change the fibers out while you in there but to be honest if the clutch is not slipping in 5 th gear when you roll her on hard I would not worry about it. It depends on your wallet and how hard you plan on riding her. MTC make a great set of fibers which I have only been able to break two when my internal hub exploded.
When you change the spring do not use any tools like pliers or needle nose pliers. In fact you would be better off doubling 50 test fish line to stretch it on the post. any toll mark nicks will make the new spring fail prematurely. Also MAke sur eyou get the oil pump drive lugs lined up and in the back of the clutch basket or the clutch will not go completley ong the input shaft. You can tel it is not right because the clutch not will not go on the shaft far enough.

Hope this helps

warp9.9 · Dec 17, 2013

Paul Bryant said:
HA ! :stirthepot:

Hey bud you cannot argue this site has turned into a religous/political site say in th elast 4 to 6 months compared to the Rocket/motorcycle site it was designed for. Not trying to raise hell but I am sure there are plenty of othe rreligous/politicing sites one can join and post on verses cluttering up a motorcycle site. Now I do pay attention to food related post but lets be honest ofter being married for over 32 years I realize I am not going to die of to much of that thaang. So I figure dieing of good eating or a WARP DRIVE FAILER is the next best thing

Flying Finn R3 · Dec 19, 2013

warp9.9 said:
If it is the detent spring then its about a 4 hour job unless you have done it before then you can easily shave between 1 to 2 hours off that as long as you have all the parts needed. Spring, Gaskets, Clutch hub nut and as long as your in there you might as well update the lifter piece and throw a new lifter shaft in her for good measure. You might not need the lifter shaft but at the price you might as well have it handy. Myself I would change the fibers out while you in there but to be honest if the clutch is not slipping in 5 th gear when you roll her on hard I would not worry about it. It depends on your wallet and how hard you plan on riding her. MTC make a great set of fibers which I have only been able to break two when my internal hub exploded.
When you change the spring do not use any tools like pliers or needle nose pliers. In fact you would be better off doubling 50 test fish line to stretch it on the post. any toll mark nicks will make the new spring fail prematurely. Also MAke sur eyou get the oil pump drive lugs lined up and in the back of the clutch basket or the clutch will not go completley ong the input shaft. You can tel it is not right because the clutch not will not go on the shaft far enough.

Hope this helps

thanks warp,
jep by these guidelines but I will do a test ride first. I will give more feedback later.......

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