Routine Maintenance Question-Coolant Exchange.

[Bedifferent]

I'm big on doing my own routine maintenance on my 2015 R3T. In the spring I plan to do another rear tire, splines, battery and brakes all around. In addition, I'll be doing ...a new fuel filter and brake fluid exchange. My question is....how many people go through the hassle of draining and replacing the coolant as it seems like a lot of work. I have a Ramair installed as well as a PB crossover and TORs. With the Ramair installed it should be easier to access the bleed screw on the side of the engine if I decide to do the coolant. About 11,000 miles on the bike.

 

[Jag]

I'm big on doing my own routine maintenance on my 2015 R3T. In the spring I plan to do another rear tire, splines, battery and brakes all around. In addition, I'll be doing ...a new fuel filter and brake fluid exchange. My question is....how many people go through the hassle of draining and replacing the coolant as it seems like a lot of work. I have a Ramair installed as well as a PB crossover and TORs. With the Ramair installed it should be easier to access the bleed screw on the side of the engine if I decide to do the coolant. About 11,000 miles on the bike.

Easy to do! I’ve done it every two years since new! Replacing all the hoses was a bit challenging! Samco Hoses are very nice and their hose clamps are the best made high quality clamp I have ever seen.

 

[Bedifferent]

Easy to do! I’ve done it every two years since new! Replacing all the hoses was a bit challenging! Samco Hoses are very nice and their hose clamps are the best made high quality clamp I have ever seen.

I've seen that people like the Samco Hoses. A bit pricey, but I haven't checked out the cost of the OEM hoses. What all do you need besides the hoses and clamps for doing the job? I think I already bought the crankcase and water pump sealing washers. Do you actually need to pull the pump or just the hoses?

 

[Gregger]

You can drain the block by loosing off the clamp on one of the lowest hoses #9 attached to the pump. If it doesn't drain, shove a small screwdriver between the hose and fitting. You can also remove the top bolt holding the water pump (don't need to remove pump). This bolt #16 has a copper sealing washer #15 and will drain the block. The only issue is that it is slow going. Let it drain. Remove the rad cap and bleed hole plug on the left hand side close to the thermostat.

 

[Jag]

I've seen that people like the Samco Hoses. A bit pricey, but I haven't checked out the cost of the OEM hoses. What all do you need besides the hoses and clamps for doing the job? I think I already bought the crankcase and water pump sealing washers. Do you actually need to pull the pump or just the hoses?

Like gregger said remove the bolt on the water pump or remove the lower hose. There is an upgraded bolt from triumph for the drain bolt on the water pump, it has a larger head. Level the bike and refill, I use engine ice coolant, use a socket with some tape, sticky side out to capture the bleeder bolt. Remove bleeder bolt completely and fill! If the fluid looks dirty, flush once or twice with distilled water! Oh I forgot, I use a shop vac to suck out some residual fluid at the water pump!