Recall for 2020 Rocket 3 Rear Brake

[Gregger]

If you look at the ABS module/pump assembly there are a lot of places for air to be trapped. Only by activating the system (probably several times) can the air escape into the caliper and through the bleeder screw. I've never taken any of these systems apart but it looks like there are several types incorporating at least 1 pump, accumulators, check valves etc etc, all places where air could be trapped unable to be easily bled unless the ABS motor is activated. I'm guessing the brake could feel firm then after some time feel soft as air moves around from the ABS.

When I got my 12 Roadster, the rear brake was always a bit soft. I didn't think much of it until after a couple of seasons I replaced my brake fluid. There was a lot of air in the rear brake. I bled the brake, then went for a ride hammering the rear brakes so that the ABS kicked in. After a couple of applications I had to bleed the brake again and more air came out. Has been fine ever since.

 

[estoma]

My Rocket Gt was fine all summer, but after it sat this winter, the pedal went all the way to bottom.. Really simple to bleed this brake with a vacuum pump bleeder
and about 6 feet of line so u can refill the master while getting the air out. A lot of air did come out. Brakes are nice and firm now.
Have a feeling it takes some time for the air in the system to finally enter the pressurized side of the line.

I also used only a vacuum bleeder the first time, but it did not last. I then got the DealerTool and used that to open the ABS solenoids in conjunction with the vacuum bleeder. Lots of really tiny buddles emerged. I had to repeat that eight times and did two more cycles to be sure. The rear brake has been spot-on for close to three months now already.

 

[sonnie]

Mines got to go in aswell, thanks for the info....

Did the brake bleed myself using a small vacuum evacuator pump with an anti-siphon valve in-line. Couldnt get the remaining air out of the line
until i not only used the vacuum pump but also actuating the foot pedal at the same time to get the air past the anti-lock system. Just the vacuum pump
wasnt enough. That made it a two man job as the fluid left the master reservoir pretty quickly.

 

[Rockatansky]

You know that without using the control software from Triumph this hard work was completely useless?

 

[Tal]

my rear pedal was a bit soft so i just bled it with a bottle of fluid and the rubber hose topping the reservoir up as i went...loosen the bleeder...pump down...tighten the bleeder...let go.....simple but efficient...kept it up for about half a dozen pumps and no bubbles left...

 

[Gregger]

my rear pedal was a bit soft so i just bled it with a bottle of fluid and the rubber hose topping the reservoir up as i went...loosen the bleeder...pump down...tighten the bleeder...let go.....simple but efficient...kept it up for about half a dozen pumps and no bubbles left...

Now go for a ride, hammer the rear brakes to get the ABS to activate. Do this several times. If you start to feel the brake going soft, you have just freed up some more air trapped in the ABS module. Bleed then do it again. You will succeed without having to go to the dealer or purchase some ABS activation hardware/software suite.

 

[Tal]

Now go for a ride, hammer the rear brakes to get the ABS to activate. Do this several times. If you start to feel the brake going soft, you have just freed up some more air trapped in the ABS module. Bleed then do it again. You will succeed without having to go to the dealer or purchase some ABS activation hardware/software suite.

Just been on a 1200km ride...will give it another bleed this weekend...thanx for the tip...

 

[JPHDT]

Now go for a ride, hammer the rear brakes to get the ABS to activate. Do this several times. If you start to feel the brake going soft, you have just freed up some more air trapped in the ABS module. Bleed then do it again. You will succeed without having to go to the dealer or purchase some ABS activation hardware/software suite.

@ Gregger: Very good idea ! I will do it several times and my dealership (20 minutes from home) will have to bleed for free as the bike is only 9 months old.

 

[Chris94]

Took mine in for rear brake recall and first annual service Feb 27. A loose bolt (unknown origin) came out with used oil during change. Fortunately no damage done! Dealer is in the process of determining where it came from and if this should be another recall. I will update when I know more

 

[estoma]

I performed the initial oil change myself. I found that both o-rings on the dipstick were cut with part of the bottom one missing. I replaced both o-rings, only to find that they got cut again upon reinserting the dipstick. I subsequently removed both o-rings and now keep a piece of rag between the top of the dipstick and the inside of the oil tank's cap - to keep the dipstick intact. It works fine with no oil working past the dipstick either. I never found that piece of missing o-ring in the old oil, though. It is heavier than oil and would have gone to the bottom. It might well have gotten chewed up by the oil pump and lodged in the oil filter. I did not cut the filter up - I know some do at each oil change.