Rear Wheel Removal

[RockOn]

I am wondering if there are any shortcut/alternatives to my service manual instructions. I need to replace the rear Bridgestone Excedra Max. on my '08 Touring. Manual says remove both panniers, both silencers, pannier rail link(that bar that goes behind the wheel between the pannier rails) and of course the brake caliper, spindle, etc. Any chance I can lower the swingarm far enough for axle/spindle clearance and enough clearance to get the wheel out by just disconnecting the lower or upper bolts on the shocks? My lift can go up pretty high, 15-16", and I've strapped the bike to the ceiling eye bolts for extra insurance.

That is all I needed to do on my '06 Rocket Classic, disconnect the shocks, but I know this is a different animal.

Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[atomsplitter]

You can check out the video on Youtube for a 2010 Rocket III Tourer rear wheel removal. Fairly straight forward. Removing the shocks will probably NOT lower the axle far enough to avoid the exhaust pipe. Taking the shocks off with the wheel in place will stress your U-Joint.

I recommend you leave the axle nut on about 4 threads and use the nut to initially push the axle out, then remove the nut entirely.

Good luck.

 

[Boog]

I didn't remove the cross bar but the rest I took off.

 

[Wdugan9080]

I am wondering if there are any shortcut/alternatives to my service manual instructions. I need to replace the rear Bridgestone Excedra Max. on my '08 Touring. Manual says remove both panniers, both silencers, pannier rail link(that bar that goes behind the wheel between the pannier rails) and of course the brake caliper, spindle, etc. Any chance I can lower the swingarm far enough for axle/spindle clearance and enough clearance to get the wheel out by just disconnecting the lower or upper bolts on the shocks? My lift can go up pretty high, 15-16", and I've strapped the bike to the ceiling eye bolts for extra insurance.

That is all I needed to do on my '06 Rocket Classic, disconnect the shocks, but I know this is a different animal.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Doesn't look like you have to do anything to the shock's, but the guy says the axial is 9/16 I'm pretty sure it's 19mm nothing on the bike is SAE I picked up a good set on Amazon LEXIVON Master HEX Bit Socket... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MDLCLML?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I think it's $23, great set, I used it so far on the final drive oil change I think 18mm and had to hit it with a hammer to break it loose, so they are strong, I use the smaller ones alot on the seat and tank and stuff, work good, I got that and a 1/2" drive ratchet on points rewards about $40 worth. GL tell me how it goes, I got the jack haven't used it yet, looks scary, holds 1500 lbs but it just looks scary, I didn't see where your from and don't know if they have a harbor freight by you but that's where I got the jack $100, and a torque wrench cheap 3/8" ft.lbs. you have to convert everything to NM but work's good , just got new tires $900 at the shop, charged me $200 more than quote, because it took the guy 2.5 hours . Metzelers ME888's, hear they don't last long, I wouldn't use Bridgestone's I called them to match a Exedra Max bias a guy gave me and they said they don't make a tire for that bike, and I read on here about a recall in 2009 and Triumph doesn't use them anymore, they were breaking down from the inside out and falling apart, just a FYI I'll try to find the thread. Triumph recommends Metzelers ME888 and Avon Cobra Cromes

 

[RockOn]

You can check out the video on Youtube for a 2010 Rocket III Tourer rear wheel removal. Fairly straight forward. Removing the shocks will probably NOT lower the axle far enough to avoid the exhaust pipe. Taking the shocks off with the wheel in place will stress your U-Joint.

I recommend you leave the axle nut on about 4 threads and use the nut to initially push the axle out, then remove the nut entirely.

Good luck.

Thanks. I watched the video with the '10 model, almost identical to mine. He did what the manual calls for except for not removing the right side silencer and he did not need to remove the bar between the pannier rails. I agree , lowering the swingarm without supporting the wheel is not a good idea. I used my floor jack to hold the weight of the rear wheel on my '06 and will do that again for the '08. I will not bother with disconnecting the shocks and just do as he did in the video per the manual.

Coincidently, while scrolling down through the videos I noticed the video showing my bike. It is the video with the bike on the rotating platform done by Manassas Triumph. I am the third owner with 35,000 or so now on the clock. 2nd owner had the detent spring problem fixed. I've added an airhorn, taller Clearview windshield and Decosse's keyless ignition. 2nd owner had the RamAir unit installed and tuned for the optimum HP and TQ, which is hard on rear tires.

 

[martym52]

I am wondering if there are any shortcut/alternatives to my service manual instructions. I need to replace the rear Bridgestone Excedra Max. on my '08 Touring. Manual says remove both panniers, both silencers, pannier rail link(that bar that goes behind the wheel between the pannier rails) and of course the brake caliper, spindle, etc. Any chance I can lower the swingarm far enough for axle/spindle clearance and enough clearance to get the wheel out by just disconnecting the lower or upper bolts on the shocks? My lift can go up pretty high, 15-16", and I've strapped the bike to the ceiling eye bolts for extra insurance.

That is all I needed to do on my '06 Rocket Classic, disconnect the shocks, but I know this is a different animal.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Removing the final drive makes the whole process much easier, then I moly lube the splines and drain and replace the drive lube using the filler plug. The drain plugs are fragile and it is better to not disturb them after the initial lube change.

 

[Wdugan9080]

Removing the final drive makes the whole process much easier, then I moly lube the splines and drain and replace the drive lube using the filler plug. The drain plus are fragile and it is better to not disturb them after the initial lube change.

I just did my gear oil change, couldn't find recommended mobilube shc fully synthetic hypoid oil, and read the Mobil delvac fully synthetic hypoid gear 75/90w was recommended by Mobil, it seems good just got about 100 miles on it, bike has 44,000 08 R3T, I think it recommended change every 20,000 I had to take a hammer to the wrench to get the drain plug out, but the internal threads are all aluminum, so be careful torquing it up, but that stuff that came out was as Black as the bike, and smelled like regular gear oil, not synthetic, glad I could only get a gallon on Amazon $53 , did a Google and the only place that had a quart was walmart.com and it didn't show ship to store so shipping was $10 and the quart was $16, I figured twice the price I get 4 time's as much with the gallon, it only holds about 6 oz so I can get 21 changes, going to change it again at 500 miles, just to clean it out some, it's so easy to do, just be careful leaning it up against a wall or have someone hold it off the kick stand and up when you fill it, I just unbolted the silencer from the bracket and the pipe slipped down to get the socket and stuff on the hex head, bought a good set on Amazon cheap, I think you need the 19mm and 18mm but I use the whole set a lot LEXIVON Master HEX Bit Socket... Amazon.com: LEXIVON Master HEX Bit Socket Set, Premium S2 Alloy Steel | Complete 32-Piece, SAE and Metric Set | Enhanced Storage Case (LX-144): Automotive
Pretty solid, held up to a hammer. GL and good day I just found out my buddy got hit from behind in traffic on the b parkway major highway, he was stopped, and the guy dragged him like 20 ft. , Totalled the Brand New Harley dyna, he spent a night in the hospital, back is messed up and knees, but he's at work, I told him he should have never come in, he's taking next week off, I hope he heals quickly, nice kid, probably high 20's maybe 28, I just bought my bike into work today for 1st time and a Lady started to come in my lane a couple feet then saw me as I was putting on the brakes with a pickup right behind me on a curve an exit off the turnpike crazy NJ drivers, north NJ the worst, that's why I live south central. I'm sure you heard this before Be Careful, think they will pull in front of you, not are they and be ready for it, I entered one exit today and the traffic was stopped I stayed close to the shoulder where I had an out and looked in the rear view, just think if it can be happen it will happen. Be safe

 

[Boog]

@RockOn I got my bike there as well. It was Triumph of Manassas then when I bought Brahma.

 

[RockOn]

Got the rear wheel removed. Only took me 4 or 5 hours. I do not know how the fella in the video loosened the spindle nut and brake torque bolt without removing the right side silencer. Only thing I can guess at would be using an open end box wrench to get in there. How the heck did he get a torque wrench and 24 mm socket in there with that muffler in place? Oh well, just one of a few zillion life mysteries, eh? I was surprised and a bit distressed to see black fluid/gunk covering the bevel box between the fill plug and drain plug. One or both plugs must not be tight or God ,please forbid, one or both plugs have been cross-threaded. I can't recall if there are O rings on those plugs but will look into it as I change the fluid. The bevel box drain plugs on my '06 classic have never shown any sign of leakage, so something is amiss here on the '08 Touring.

Wheel drive gear and bearings looked fine, spin smoothly and adequately greased. I will clean and apply new Loctite Moly grease. Wasn't planning on removing bevel box for a spline inspection/greasing but should probably do it while I am in there. I have seen several interesting and clever ways on the forum to get the bevel box to join back up with the drive shaft. I am a bit worried about screwing it up or losing the spring that is in there. Frankly, everything I do on my Rockets is done with some trepidation.

I see in one of the comments that I should be in great fear over installing another Bridgestone but I am going to do it anyway. The previous owner installed a new Bridgestone Excedra Max on the front wheel and it is still in very good shape after the few K miles I have put on it. So, I want the same tire and tread pattern on the back, necessary or not. I did notice the old worn out Bridgestone on the rear wheel did not match the front tire tread. So, somewhere along the line they changed the pattern. I see new rear Bridgestone Excedra tires online match my front tire pattern.

Another interesting thing I discovered. The hex head nuts attaching the silencer to the pannier rails on the left side are 13mm and the nuts for the silencer on the right side are 12mm. I kid you not. Weird, eh?

PS It now occurs to me that I must have spent at least an hour or two out the 5 hours I was in the garage polishing the chrome bits. It sure holds up the show when I get distracted by dirt, smudges, road grime, bug guts, etc. I can't help stopping what I am doing and get a microfiber rag and my Honda 3 in 1 polish and make stuff, "purty "again.

 

[Wdugan9080]

Got the rear wheel removed. Only took me 4 or 5 hours. I do not know how the fella in the video loosened the spindle nut and brake torque bolt without removing the right side silencer. Only thing I can guess at would be using an open end box wrench to get in there. How the heck did he get a torque wrench and 24 mm socket in there with that muffler in place? Oh well, just one of a few zillion life mysteries, eh? I was surprised and a bit distressed to see black fluid/gunk covering the bevel box between the fill plug and drain plug. One or both plugs must not be tight or God ,please forbid, one or both plugs have been cross-threaded. I can't recall if there are O rings on those plugs but will look into it as I change the fluid. The bevel box drain plugs on my '06 classic have never shown any sign of leakage, so something is amiss here on the '08 Touring.

Wheel drive gear and bearings looked fine, spin smoothly and adequately greased. I will clean and apply new Loctite Moly grease. Wasn't planning on removing bevel box for a spline inspection/greasing but should probably do it while I am in there. I have seen several interesting and clever ways on the forum to get the bevel box to join back up with the drive shaft. I am a bit worried about screwing it up or losing the spring that is in there. Frankly, everything I do on my Rockets is done with some trepidation.

I see in one of the comments that I should be in great fear over installing another Bridgestone but I am going to do it anyway. The previous owner installed a new Bridgestone Excedra Max on the front wheel and it is still in very good shape after the few K miles I have put on it. So, I want the same tire and tread pattern on the back, necessary or not. I did notice the old worn out Bridgestone on the rear wheel did not match the front tire tread. So, somewhere along the line they changed the pattern. I see new rear Bridgestone Excedra tires online match my front tire pattern.

Another interesting thing I discovered. The hex head nuts attaching the silencer to the pannier rails on the left side are 13mm and the nuts for the silencer on the right side are 12mm. I kid you not. Weird, eh?

PS It now occurs to me that I must have spent at least an hour or two out the 5 hours I was in the garage polishing the chrome bits. It sure holds up the show when I get distracted by dirt, smudges, road grime, bug guts, etc. I can't help stopping what I am doing and get a microfiber rag and my Honda 3 in 1 polish and make stuff, "purty "again.

I should have told you about that "Gords" aluminum polish I bought, looked all over you tube for an easier way of polishing the wheels, do a search and check it out, I saw one guy tested a few compounds, he determined mother's chrome polish the best, spent a few hours I forget how many for a couple days on 1 truck wheel, it looked painful. But I'm waiting till I have time to do the back break's and polish the back rim at least to see how it works, I bookmarked your post and let you know how it turns out