Rear wheel bearings -- RESOLVED! Thanks for all the advice.

My 2 cents. I think the torque spec for the rear axle nut is way to tight. I think the recommended torque smashes the aluminum spacer which then side loads the bearings. I just snug mine up now and have had no further bearing problems.
Sounds reasonable. Snugging up would probably be about 60 ftlbs? Maybe a little Loctite on the nut for good measure?
 
If you already know this disregard, but make sure if you have to do any driving on the new bearings, to drive it by the outer race. Driving by the inner race puts impact loads on the balls and makes tiny dents in the race which lead to premature failure. If you were driving a bearing onto a shaft, you would drive with the inner race so as not to damage the balls/race. Nothing worse than damaging ones balls 😨
 
If you already know this disregard, but make sure if you have to do any driving on the new bearings, to drive it by the outer race. Driving by the inner race puts impact loads on the balls and makes tiny dents in the race which lead to premature failure. If you were driving a bearing onto a shaft, you would drive with the inner race so as not to damage the balls/race. Nothing worse than damaging ones balls 😨
 
I've got a question @bernard
What were the symptomd that got you to replace the rear wheel bearings and what mileage do you have? Did you have issue or were you replacing proactively?

I've replaced rear wheel bearings on other bikes when experiencing a little play or knotchy-ness in the rear wheel
 
I'll add my 2¢. I had a slide puller- not enough umph, not even close. I did make that work by banging on the insert from the backside with a bar after heating the hub.

Sonny's suggestion for penetrating oil I will try next time.

Bought a tool from Motion Pro that was a joke- don't.

The last time I just moved the spacer with a good sideways whack with a drift and then banged the bearing out the old school way. That works every time.

I use the old bearings to drive the new ones until they're flush with the hub. Stop, or you'll stick the old one in there! Then use a big socket to bang in the rest of the way, putting pressure on the outer race. I'm going to find a washer that is the right size for next time to help evenly spread the load.

Rear tire right side bearings are always tight, but feel OK after removal. The axle torque is too much, but afraid to back off too much. Spec is 110 and I go 95- probably still too tight though. What are you guys using?

In an old post someone said that they took off a mm or two from the spacer. Anyone else done that or have thoughts on that?
 
I'll add my 2¢. I had a slide puller- not enough umph, not even close. I did make that work by banging on the insert from the backside with a bar after heating the hub.

Sonny's suggestion for penetrating oil I will try next time.

Bought a tool from Motion Pro that was a joke- don't.

The last time I just moved the spacer with a good sideways whack with a drift and then banged the bearing out the old school way. That works every time.

I use the old bearings to drive the new ones until they're flush with the hub. Stop, or you'll stick the old one in there! Then use a big socket to bang in the rest of the way, putting pressure on the outer race. I'm going to find a washer that is the right size for next time to help evenly spread the load.

Rear tire right side bearings are always tight, but feel OK after removal. The axle torque is too much, but afraid to back off too much. Spec is 110 and I go 95- probably still too tight though. What are you guys using?

In an old post someone said that they took off a mm or two from the spacer. Anyone else done that or have thoughts on that?
Shortening the spacer would be bad. That would allow the inner races to crowd the balls towards the inside edge of the outer race, putting a continuous bind on the bearing.
 
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