R3T Overheated In Driveway

[IMBatmon68]

So my wife and I were about to take the R3T out for dinner and I was warming her (the bike) up while we were getting ready. When we came out the bike was steaming and coolant pouring from the overflow lines. Have not had this happen before and the bike is riding great. The bike was probably running for about 15 mins before we made it out there. Is that normal or should the fan have kicked in and taken care of that? Just not sure what the threshold for time is. It sounds like I need to investigate the fan relay but am open to suggestions as well.

I pulled the fan relay and it tested at 183 ohms which should be normal, the funning thing is when I switch it with the ECM relay, the fuel pump will not activate and I cannot start the bike, so I am a little confused why that is going on since I thought all of those relays were the same. Am going to check the coolant levels as well to see where I am on that.

 

[TURBO200R4]

So my wife and I were about to take the R3T out for dinner and I was warming her (the bike) up while we were getting ready. When we came out the bike was steaming and coolant pouring from the overflow lines. Have not had this happen before and the bike is riding great. The bike was probably running for about 15 mins before we made it out there. Is that normal or should the fan have kicked in and taken care of that? Just not sure what the threshold for time is. It sounds like I need to investigate the fan relay but am open to suggestions as well.

I pulled the fan relay and it tested at 183 ohms which should be normal, the funning thing is when I switch it with the ECM relay, the fuel pump will not activate and I cannot start the bike, so I am a little confused why that is going on since I thought all of those relays were the same. Am going to check the coolant levels as well to see where I am on that.

Thats a lot of questions
First i think that 138 ohms is way high. I can check tomorrow when I get to the shop.
There r two types of relays assuming we r referring to the early rockets
There is a 5 terminal relay which can replace the 4 prong and
There's a 4 prong that can not replace the 5 prong..
You can buy a fuse holder
(or make one) and put male terminals on it then with key and kill switch on put the fuse set up in number 30 and 87 in the fan connector this should make the fan come on. Will also set codes that will need to be cleared.
The engine heat sensor or a bad relay will prevent the fan from running
Hth herman

 

[IMBatmon68]

Thanks, let me clarify a couple things. The bike is a 2011 R3 Touring. On the left side there are three, four-pronged relays (fuel pump, ECM, cooling fan) and on the right there is one, five-pin relay for the flasher unit. The relay in question measures 183 ohms (not 138) and the other two that I know are working measure 156 and 170. When I play musical relays, the expected bad relay does not perform in any socket. For example, when I put it in the fuel pump socket, everything lights up and turns on but the fuel pump does not prime or run. I have a replacement ordered from Amazon and should be here tomorrow so will drop that in and check. Just puzzled me with the ohms reading because online it says a relay can read between 50 and 3000 and be fine but I know there has to be some rules around that but am not an expert.

Also, checked and topped off the coolant and ran the bike for five mins in the driveway. The radiator became very warm around 4 mins as did the two coolant lines that are in the front, bottom of the motor. The fan did not come on. Assuming right now it is the relay. Will test tomorrow and go from there.

 

[Mongler07]

Pull the coolant temp sending unit and the thermostat. Put them both in a pot of boiling water. Test the switch to see if it opens with a meter.
Replace all relays
Flush system with thermocure... See my post
When it comes to replacing the thermostat switch and relays... dirt cheep on parts that fail anyways and an overheat can damage them as well so just give the coolant system a 100% makeover.
You would be amazed at how crappy the coolant system is on these bikes (dirty) from the factory. Imo I would stop trying to figure out why it did it and just replace the 3 things it could be as they do have a lifespan. I would also replace the hoses as a overheat can damage them as well.
Hope you don't have a warped head!

 

[Frosty Rider]

my fans wouldn't kick on one day, and they should have, turned out it was a blown fuse, changed that and everything has been good since

 

[Mongler07]

my fans wouldn't kick on one day, and they should have, turned out it was a blown fuse, changed that and everything has been good since

Yes but why. You don't want it to fail when you need it most. Hence why you want to amp test the fan. And if you are fancy.... Meg load the line to check for insulation damage.
I have had 2 bikes had the heads rebuilt due to stuff like this. An overheat can total a engine if you do not possess the skills to take the heat to a shop

 

[Tripps]

Yes but why. You don't want it to fail when you need it most. Hence why you want to amp test the fan. And if you are fancy.... Meg load the line to check for insulation damage.
I have had 2 bikes had the heads rebuilt due to stuff like this. An overheat can total a engine if you do not possess the skills to take the heat to a shop

What does Meg load mean?

 

[Kevin frazier]

The lone fuse on the right side is starter relay, flasher unit is built in to console. Im thinking it is a relay, also check fuse for fan. Fan should come on around 190 degrees F. The stock thermosta is an 88celsius

 

[tywal]

Thanks, let me clarify a couple things. The bike is a 2011 R3 Touring. On the left side there are three, four-pronged relays (fuel pump, ECM, cooling fan) and on the right there is one, five-pin relay for the flasher unit. The relay in question measures 183 ohms (not 138) and the other two that I know are working measure 156 and 170. When I play musical relays, the expected bad relay does not perform in any socket. For example, when I put it in the fuel pump socket, everything lights up and turns on but the fuel pump does not prime or run. I have a replacement ordered from Amazon and should be here tomorrow so will drop that in and check. Just puzzled me with the ohms reading because online it says a relay can read between 50 and 3000 and be fine but I know there has to be some rules around that but am not an expert.

Also, checked and topped off the coolant and ran the bike for five mins in the driveway. The radiator became very warm around 4 mins as did the two coolant lines that are in the front, bottom of the motor. The fan did not come on. Assuming right now it is the relay. Will test tomorrow and go from there.

Sounds like a bad relay to me as well. Swapping it told you it was bad when a problem followed the relay the new location. FYI - the relay on the right side is the Starter/Headlight Cutout Relay (see attached from Service Manual)

 

[tywal]

What does Meg load mean?

I think you'd have to be and electrical engineer or an industrial electrician/tech to pickup on that term. I've never run those kinds of tests but saw them done at a generation plant that I worked at. A Megger tester, also known as an insulation tester or megohmmeter, is a portable device that measures the resistance of electrical insulation to identify potential problems. Not a test I'd run - pretty high level thinking though for a DIYer.